Honda ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Ya'll, this is this is my first post on this forum and I need some serious help.

I have a 1995 Fortrax 300 that I am at my wits end and am about ready to shoot the dang thing.
It went thru a bark fire backing 2004 where the fenders were deformed but the other 300 that was in there is still running fine and this one was until about 3-4 weeks ago.
It did get submerged when i took it thru a mud hole that was too deep back in December 2001 but after it dried out I had no other problems from it until 3-4 weeks ago

My First problem was battery kept going down, but it was 8years old, easy fix.

The bike almost always started with one like kick on the kick start, but it got tiring after a while. I found out that my starter solenoid by the battery was not working to I bypassed it (basically using it as a place holder and using the top for connections) It worked perfectly for about 2 weeks.

Then I went out one day to load it up and head to the deer woods and smelled burnt wires replaced the wiring harness wit one off of a running 1992 fortraax 300. I checked, double checked and triple checked that the wires matched up all but 1 did but it was the green wire in a connector that had green, red, black as teh wires where the original only had red and black or red and green I matched the wires with the colored that they belonged and thought all was good since everything else matched perfectly.

I left the connector to the starter solenoid disconnected since it would pop a fuse every time it was hooked up. since I bypassed it and wasn't using it, i figured that it wouldn't hurt me.

I tried to crank and got no fire. Hooked the spark plug into my motorcycle and it fired fine. I tested the coil with a Fluke 77 meter and verified that when the key is on I am getting power to the topside of the coil.
I testes the Ohm Loads against the book the dealer has and it all tested new.
I trimmed back a little of the insulation on the end where the "boot" goes in, by about 1/4" to make sure that it was getting a good connection to the inside of the boot

I apologize for the long post but I wanted give all the pertinent info that I could think of.
If there is more info that you need please let me know

Does anybody have a clue as to what my problem is?

Thanks in advance
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
6,604 Posts
Welcome to the site, when the brains get online they will get you in the right direction.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
23,587 Posts
Man, that's going to be a hard one without actually being there to look at it. Mainly because of the wiring harness having one different wire. Wiring problems are a pain. You really need a wiring diagram so you can trace the wires and find out where the extra wire goes. Maybe one of the other guys on here will be able to help you on this. I believe this one is over my head, without being there to actually look at it. When you know for sure that you have the wiring right, then it will be a lot easier to diagnose the problem. One problem isn't that bad, but if you have 2 or more problems at the same time, it gets a lot more difficult to figure out the problem.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Welcome to the forums man.I'd get a wiring diagram and trace them.You can probably get it online some where.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
18,211 Posts
Welcome to the forums.

Green is ground on our quads FYI photos will help me a little a print of the diagram and I can get it running. Just asking ....you are not in reverse are you? switch on? red slide switched to "ON" simple stuff first.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have confirmed that the kill switch isn't the problem, and that I am not in reverse.
I'll get a picture posted and try grounding that green wire. I figured that it was a ground but since the wires are all hooked up didn't figure that was the problem.
I'll check that and let ya'll know what happens
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
18,211 Posts
:icon_ worthless::icon_ worthless::icon_ worthless::icon_ worthless:
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
Agree^^^^^^!!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
23,587 Posts
I seen all them smilies holding signs and I thought they were on strike at first. LOL

They are. They're holding out for pictures.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
yup I tested it with my Fluke 77 meter and the local Honda shop checked it for Ohm Load and it was reading in the range that a new one was reading. They told me that if I was getting an ohm load then it isn't the coil.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I told ya'll wrong the green hooks up, The Black is the one that doesn't match up.
Here are a few pics

(I apologize for the pics being slightly large)

The one with the 2 wires is what I am hooking up to. I took the wires and connectors off the old harness and put insulated connectors on the end to hook to the white connector without touching the other connector.
 

Attachments

· Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
alright I got a "Rick’s Motorsport Electric Hot Shot Series CDI Box ", put it in and am having the same problem. I am totally confused since I even took the boot that the plug goes into and put that wire directly on the top of the plug where the boot would touch it, turned it over and still no spark.
:GRRRRRRRRRRR!:

Any ideas ?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,732 Posts
I'm baffled.Sorry man.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
38,589 Posts
first let me state..that whenever you check for spark..as in cranking it with sparkplug out..if you don't ground the plug wire to the jug..your chances of frying your cdi or very high..now..have you checked to see if your not gear ?..and to answer your move on the selenoid..if your poping fuses every time you connect it.means you got a direct short..that selenoid should have a green wire..and a yellow/red striped wire..those tie into your push to start button..if you can get find your direct short..then hook the selenoid up..to test it..push the start button..if it's good..it should start < this is if you got your short found >..if after you get it hooked up and all..push the start button..and nothing happends..then you got a bad selenoid..to test this..you can jump the connections with a screw driver on the selenoid..if it cranks..thats a dead give away it's bad..but..like i said.you need to find the short first...if you get all that fixed..and you trace all your wires..and you can't find anymore shorts..then you have fried your cdi..thats around 100 bucks maybe more from dealer..or you can shop ebay..oh..here's some really good advice..get your hands on a 12v test light..thier cheap..and it will save you alot of headache ..hope this helps you .
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top