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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

This one should be quick, but i cant seem to find and direct info on it.
Lots of people on other posts say the wiring on the stock accessories plug is pretty crap (thin Gage) and therefor cant take much being drawn from it.

I was planning on cutting the OEM connector off, putting an in-line ATC Auto fuse holder and retrofitting a modern 12v accessory plug there so i can use other things like phone chargers, tire pump, etc.

My question is this:
What is the maximum Amperage/watts draw I can place on that line without causing damage?

I need to know so i can put the appropriate fuse in the in-line housing, and so that i do not ever put more draw than the wire can take.


Thanks!
 

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Good questions.

The wiring diagram should show the power supplied via a pink and green subharness that connects underneath the front fender and connects into the main harness thru the battery subharness and 15A fuse – at the fuze I remember the subharness wires being striped. So it’s already fused and switched to the ignition.

Anyway the owners manual shows how to disassemble and use weatherproof accessory plug. My Honda accessory spotlight uses a 16 gauge stranded wire set, not 18 gauge. And it’s soldered to the plug.

If you want to use a standard 12V accessory plug–get one that’s waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good questions.

The wiring diagram should show the power supplied via a pink and green subharness that connects underneath the front fender and connects into the main harness thru the battery subharness and 15A fuse – at the fuze I remember the subharness wires being striped. So it’s already fused and switched to the ignition.

Anyway the owners manual shows how to disassemble and use weatherproof accessory plug. My Honda accessory spotlight uses a 16 gauge stranded wire set, not 18 gauge. And it’s soldered to the plug.

If you want to use a standard 12V accessory plug–get one that’s waterproof.
From what i can tell though, its fused all the way in the battery compartment so if that blows i also loose other things on the ATV until its replaced, I was going to put a 12AWG water-resistant fuse directly on that accessory line so that it blows before hitting the battery compartment.
(its a rats nest in there with all the extra stuff i added, id rather not have to go in there to replace a fuse if i can avoid it)

So would you say putting like a 10A fuse would be a good idea? Still not sure of the accessory wires max rating.
I assume if people were using it, and burning out the wires but not the fuses, obviously 15A is to much for that accessories wire.

Thought on that?
Thanks!
 

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Are you sure you have anything else on that accessory circuit?

If you want to calculate what you have on there and know watts (power) use the power equation P=IE to estimate minimum current draw

P (watts) = Inductance (Amps) x Electromotive Force (Volts)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Are you sure you have anything else on that accessory circuit?

If you want to calculate what you have on there and know watts (power) use the power equation P=IE to estimate minimum current draw

P (watts) = Inductance (Amps) x Electromotive Force (Volts)
i have nothing on it ATM. i am trying to figure out the max draw for that EXACT line.

Yes, it is tied into that 15A fuse in the main battery box, but i saw multiple posts about people putting to much draw on the accessory line (LED light bars, and other accessories like mini-saws and 120v inverters) and burning out parts of their harness, without ever blowing that 15A fuse.

I need to know what you guys think (the community) on what the MAX draw i can put on that specific line is, so i can figure out what Amp fuse would be most appropriate.

Example (not actually done):
I install heated handgrips that draw 4A on max settings @ 12v, so they use 48W of power. Will that burn up/out the accessory wire and/or take too much power form the main line that accessory wire feeds off from?
 

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That 15 amp fuse that Goober is talking about serves only the accessory plug circuit. 15 amps is pretty generous compared to the standard nowadays.... because the more modern cigarette lighter type accessory power sockets are designed for 10 amps max load. So you have nothing to worry about using that circuit. Those stories are nonsense.
 

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If the fuze is rated at 15A and 12V, using P=IE gives P=15x12 or 180 watts.

Now that is the rating for the accessory circuit; you could install a separate harness.

Keep in mind there are other influences and constraints namely draw by other components and limitations of both stator and battery.

Don’t you wish there was a Police Interceptor package like on a Harley that offered a high performance stator lols
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I guess i am a little confused, I am not great at reading wiring diagrams.

When i look at the "After 92" wiring diagram, i start at the battery battery. Both the P/W and R lines go into the "ignition switch". Then from there, Via the P cable, go directly to the "DC Connect", which i am assuming is the accessories port.

I do not see a fuse anywhere after the ignition switch and before reaching the DC Connect, only at the start in the battery compartment.

Do i not need to add a fuse in-between the ignition switch and DC connect to be safe? To make sure i don't damage the switch, or burn out the harness if i draw to much or get a short?
_________________________

Also, Thanks Goober, if true that the accessory circuit/wires are 15A rated, the 180w figure helps alot :D
 

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Formula wheel electrical engineering electricity ohm's law pie chart calculation circle power wheel electric power formula fundamentals general ohm's law emf ohms audio physics electricity electronics formula wheel formulas amps watts volts ohms cosi
The Formula Wheel of Electrical Engineering
just found this. i doubt it will help. how much power, do ya want to run through your wires. =watts?
180w divided by 12v=15 amps. 15 amp fuse, and the wiring to accommodate it.
14 or 16 stranded. is my best guess. i like the wiring bigger, than what is required.
i would use a 15amp fuse or lower
i left out the charging capacity, of the atv, or the storage capacity, of the battery..
 

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Does your handgrip heater set have a fuse in the harness? I wouldn’t use a 12 gauge fuse–I would use the same as you have in the fuse bank back by the battery. But in 10A like you said—you don’t really need it; you could also buy a separate harness with a built in fuse.

Now keep in mind the stator on the quad puts out a max of 300 watt i think. Stated In the manual. Idk what it outputs at lower rpm

Now remember those fuses are glass tube type right? You can get them in delay and fast-blow–mine are the original so idk what they are. Hopefully they are fast-blow.

I think the accessory circuit is 16 gauge stranded wire–I don’t know what it would take to overload it–best to be selective a limit your accessory load. Or use a small deep-cycle mounted elsewhere on the quad that you can use to run excess stuff and recharge later.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does your handgrip heater set have a fuse in the harness? I wouldn’t use a 12 gauge fuse—I would use the same as you have in the fuse bank back by the battery. But in 10A like you said–you don’t really need it; you could also buy a separate harness with a built in fuse.

Now keep in mind the stator on the quad puts out a max of 300 watt i think. Stated In the manual. Idk what it outputs at lower rpm

Now remember those fuses are glass tube type right? You can get them in delay and fast-blow—mine are the original so idk what they are. Hopefully they are fast-blow.

I think the accessory circuit is 16 gauge stranded wire—I don’t know what it would take to overload it—best to be selective a limit your accessory load. Or use a small deep-cycle mounted elsewhere on the quad that you can use to run excess stuff and recharge later.
Just cut my connector off in prep for my 12v cig socket.
For the OEM Accessories Connector/harness, both the pink (switched hot) and green (ground) are 18 gauge AWG Stranded.
I will still probably solder on my 12AWG in line fuse set i ordered, put a 10A fuse in it just to have a fuse in between the ignition switch system and the actual outlet.
I like to be extra safe and i want to ensure I never draw over 120W through that line.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
OK, so after a lengthy discussion over on the Electrical Engineering discord server with some people, we came up with the estimate that that 18 guage switched power pink coming out of the ignition switch that goes to the OEM DC socket.
We think it will most likely not be able to maintain a constant load of over 8amps/96watts without risking melting the wire insulation. Its alittle on the conservative side, but they did say it may go higher depending on the insulation type, but as the wire is unlabeled, i can not give them the insulation type other than "plastic" so this is their estimate.

Just wanted to post that for anyone else.

PS: We should totally make a Honda Rebel ATV forum Discord Channel. If any of the site admins want, i can set one up with basic permissions, layouts, and ranking systems (I already manage my own server for my YouTube channel) @retro
 

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That’s a fair assessment—nominal load is typically half max rated capacity. I’m sure Honda only designed it for the accessories they offered—no others would fit, right? Another consideration is time—how long is too long?

That leads you to using a separate harness—i have one on my 86–it’s a cheap 16 gauge setup with a relay rated at 40A. Control circuit is switched to the ignition and power circuit to the battery and load terminal. Okay now i think the wires and connectors are junk but you sound like you are capable of building a worthy harness
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Currently, this is my plan on utilizing the utility line without having to add or re-wire the basic system.
Obviously if i never use anywhere near 5A through the socket, i am going to not have the hand warmers on.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So, took me about a week and 3 phone calls, but i finally got an official answer from Harbor Freights Product Support Department.
I was trying to find a sub-8 amp draw emergency pump for my ATV.

Their $9 ($7 with coupon) portable infiltrator uses 7.4A loaded, and 3.0A with no load.
SKU: 63109, 63152
https://www.harborfreight.com/12V-150-PSI-Portable-Inflator-63152.html


Good emergency, low amp pump to inflate a tire if you are going off-roading and need to inflate after plunging a tire.
Can be used on the switched utility line (which i am installing a cig outlet on) with ought worrying about overloading it and causing damage.

I imagine the "loaded" amperage is at 50+ psi (cosidering it maxes out at 150 psi), not low pressures like most Atv TIRES use (mine being like 6psi max) so my guess is that the overall amperage use on average is like 5.5A or less (guessing)

Just felt I should post to help others :D
 

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