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Discussion Starter #1
Some of you might have seen me mention this in my intro but I'm starting a specific thread on my project. I'm getting this one back in running order to sell. NOT a total restoration. The main areas are the cam and chain, front brakes and the rear axle/diff bearings. So I'll ask my 1st couple of questions now...

Anyone have a decent used cam for this? The one I have is right on the replace specs. New D.I.D chain and Honda sprocket are both ordered.

What do you guys use for loctite on the cam sprocket bolts?
 

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e-bay has loads of cams , I seen them last week or Powersportsnation is a source for used parts , I prefer red Loc-Tite
 

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Discussion Starter #3
e-bay has loads of cams , I seen them last week or Powersportsnation is a source for used parts , I prefer red Loc-Tite
Yeah thanks! I checked ebay and none of them give the current specs other than "came off of a running machine." I asked a couple but no response. Plus they are very close to new price for unknown condition.
 

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You can also put a ATC250ES/TRX250A cam in a 300 motor. The motor would run a bit stronger with a 250 cam, same as they ran in the 1st gen 300s. If you do that use the 250/350 cam sprocket and 250 chain for best results.
 

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Like Retro said , If you can find a 1st gen 300 cam or a 85-87 TRX250A cam or a 85-87 ATC250ES cam , it will make about 2 more HP with a jet upgrade and a no limit cdi ----but I think I read where you are fixing it to sell so stock might be your best bet
 

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I prefer red Loc-Tite
Fish , i agree with loctite , book does say
apply locking agent to the threads
. I see back n the forums something about hondabond #4 , I've never used the stuff myself...... Is that stuff kind of the same as loctite or ? Closer to permatext gasket glue ? Or completely different then ether ?
 

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Honda Bond 4 is a sealer , great for gaskets ---------I don't even see regular Honda Bond any more at the dealers , just Honda Bond 4 ---YamaBond is about the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Like Retro said , If you can find a 1st gen 300 cam or a 85-87 TRX250A cam or a 85-87 ATC250ES cam , it will make about 2 more HP with a jet upgrade and a no limit cdi ----but I think I read where you are fixing it to sell so stock might be your best bet
I think I'll order a new stocker today since the sprocket and chain are already ordered. Plus their used prices are only about $10 cheaper than new. I was kinda hoping someone on here had one laying around and could tell me a little more than "it came from a running machine".

You should see the responses from the eBay guys when I ask them to measure their used cams.

Like WTH? I don't need another worn out cam! It's not hard cupcake.
 

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Farmer, for GOOD used parts I either buy from someone I know (Manny here on the forum, for example) or I use Powersportsnation. They aren't always the cheapest, but I check them first, and their parts are always as advertised. If you aren't happy with the part, they send another or refund your money.

On some stuff, my new parts guy ([email protected]) is cheaper new than people want for used parts. On some stuff, powersportsnation has really good deals.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Farmer, for GOOD used parts I either buy from someone I know (Manny here on the forum, for example) or I use Powersportsnation. They aren't always the cheapest, but I check them first, and their parts are always as advertised. If you aren't happy with the part, they send another or refund your money.

On some stuff, my new parts guy ([email protected]) is cheaper new than people want for used parts. On some stuff, powersportsnation has really good deals.
Thanks! I 'll keep them in mind when I get to the rear end, and front brake hose. I always feel bad using used parts cause it just means another running machine just disappeared. Too bad we can't rehab them all but Honda doesn't supply new parts forever and we all can't afford to buy new anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok, I got the cam chain and sprocket in and she fired up but falls on its face with any throttle. Needs choke to run better. I'll get to that later but at least she runs.

So I moved onto the rear end. Holy cripes! Everything is full of mud. The brake drum was packed. I got everything apart but couln't get the drum off of the axle. So I put it in the press with heat and she broke. Great! more money! OK I pressed more with the outer drum gone thinking it would go now having stronger shoulder to work with. Nope. I got the thing red hot and my 12 ton press wouldn't do it. OK, I'll cut that thing off along with the bearing race that's behind it. I was just planning on fixing the brakes up but now I have to by a drum that is apparently made of gold.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sometimes the drum don't come off the axle and I have cut them off to save the backing plate , the drum is a alloy and melts away the hub in the middle of the drum is steel and cuts

Yeah that's my plan for Monday. I'm working on the 300 but I get what you're doing there. Thanks!
 

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Just a little update.... While waiting for bearings and seals I spent some time cleaning things up and messing with the poor running....

I finally got the brake drum hub aluminum separated from the steel part. Then I went in with a cutoff blade on my angle grinder and cut relief cuts into that hub. I didn't want to torch it and cause myself more problems. So once I saw the cuts were just about to hit the axle I STOPPED and switched to a cold chisel. By pounding it in at different angles I was able to get it to split and pop right off of the axle. Easy peazy. The bearing race behind it only took a few good smacks with the chisel before it popped off.

The rear brake baking plate was packed full of petrified mud so I pressure washed that and the cover of the differential. I didn't p wash the driveshaft side of the cover since the shaft bearings and gear are fine. Then I worked on getting some dinged up splines on the axle fixed up. It was pretty easy... I just stacked two of those cheesy little cutoff wheels together on my dremmal tool and played dentist for a few minutes. The new brake drum slide right on!

Since the engine was needing choke to run after I did the cam I went after that next. The gas tank came 1st. I pulled it off and propped the line up between two wires so that I could fill it with carb cleaner. While spraying carb cleaner into the fuel line I opened the carb drain until the old gas turned to clear carb cleaner. Then I closed it, let it fill and left it to soak. Next the tank got drained and I cleaned up the two filters in there. The plastic one up in the tank really didn't want to come out but I got it.

After soaking for about an hour I put it all back together and started it to let it warm up. Now... the air cleaner is gone on this thing. I mean it had holes in it. It's still wanted to stall a bit on revs so I held a rag over the carb to simulate an air filter and she ran great after that! So a new air cleaner is ordered and on it's way. If it gives me future problems I'll pull the carb and do a full clean and reset there. I know this thing had a dealer installed aftermarket cam so some tuning might be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, I did a bit of shopping and swapping lately.....

Once the rear diff and brakes passed a test drive its on to wheels and tires...I ended up getting an 86 350 parts machine for $150 to match my runner/keeper. This one has frame issues and zero plastic so I'm ok with retiring the old girl. It had good tires on it but the front wheels from the 86 are too wide and hit the shock mount. So thanks to @fishfiles for supporting my idea of putting the wider front tires onto the narrow fronts of the 300. I'm talking 9" tires onto 8" wheels here so no biggie.

Along with picking up the 86 350 wheeler I also found an antique Coats ( I think) tire machine for $135. She's old and there are some tricks to using it on wheeler tires but after a few hours of trial and error I got all four moved from the 350 over to the 300 wheels. The learning part took a while but boy does that beat wrestling them the old way! Did I mention that the 300 tires were original? Manually busting those beads just wasn't an option. I even tried the bucket of my skidloader on one.

Ok so next on the list is to repair some bent beads from the previous owner and paint the wheels. I know I know I should have done it with the tires off but I didn't want to stop in the middle of testing the tire machine out. Besides, they're going to be black so a little over spray won't hurt and the tires add some weight to the bead fixing process.

Then I'm going to install the foot brake spring that I bought from @Manny along with a new air cleaner.

I'm still on the fence about replacing the front brake hose that got rubbed through by the ITP Blackwater setup it used to have. That dang hose is pricey and my budget is shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Which brake hose was it you needed? Bet someone here has it.
It's the front lower one. ...the one that y's off and is all one piece so that you have to replace the whole dang thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
when you go to paint your rims , let the air out the tires , take a deck of old playing cards and stick them into the crack between the tire and the rim , then tape over the cards , makes masking the tire go quickly and no over spray

I love this idea! We had a couple of decks left over from Dad's wake. He was a huge pitch player so we glued up a couple of his favorite hands.

But, too late. I'm not getting notifications on here properly. When I logged in it said I had 1 like when actually a bunch of you guys had commented.

Ended up using a wet rag of thinner and quickly wiped the overspray before it dried. Not perfect at all.
 
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