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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, I'm new to the forum and I already have a serious problem with my 350 trx. I took the bike into the Honda dealer to fix the fuel pump. Turns out it was the fuel pump relay - which was replaced and the bike ran fine.

The mechanic said he left it running for 20 minutes or so and went into the shop to help customers. When he came back the bike was not running and he could not start it again. (he also did not turn the cooling fan on, as it has been hard wired to a manual switch).

Now, the bike is not getting any spark at the coil and won't start. Green light comes on and the starter motor turns the engine over, but no spark anywhere. Any ideas would be extremely appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the forums. It could be the stator, pulse generator, ignition coil or CDI. A repair manual will have tests for all the ignition components. Sorry, I don't have a manual for the 350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx Helmut. I read something about the stator losing magnetism if overheated. Is it possible for this to happen only idling the bike for 20min or so with the fan off? How can I test if it has lost magnetism?

The mechanic tested the circuit at the main green plug harness under the seat which apprently comes from the stator. No electircal current could be detected. Is there another way to test the stator without removing the side engine cover plate?
 

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To me it sounds like the dealership is liable for this damage. When repairs are made its very easy for something else to go wrong especially when working with electrical parts. I would demand they fix the problem. If they wont then try to negotiate an agreemant that they fix the problem and pay the labor and you pay for the parts.
 

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I read something about the stator losing magnetism if overheated. Is it possible for this to happen only idling the bike for 20min or so with the fan off? How can I test if it has lost magnetism?
I don't think it would have hurt anything idling for 20 minutes without the fan on. The only time the fan is supposed to kick on is when you are running the ATV hard or pulling something.

The mechanic tested the circuit at the main green plug harness under the seat which apprently comes from the stator. No electircal current could be detected. Is there another way to test the stator without removing the side engine cover plate?
Did the mechanic test the stator for voltage or did he check the resistance across the two wires in the plug? If he did a resistance test and the meter read infinite ohms, then the stator is bad. If the meter read zero ohms, then that means the wires are tipping somewhere in the stator and the stator is also bad. All the stator consists of, is coils of wire and if the meter read infinite resistance, then a wire in one of the coils is burnt in two.

The only way I know of to check the stator is to check for resistance at the green plug that you were speaking of.

When Shadetree gets on here, he may be able to tell you what the resistance of the stator is supposed to be. I think he has a repair manual for the 350.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was feeling the same way, but these guys are usually pretty good and i don't want to piss them off just yet. Plus, how do i know that it wasn't something that just happened to fail in their shop. Either way, i will definitely be negotiating some kind of deal with them....atleast split the bill. Still buggin me tho about what it could be....
 

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i have never seen a stator go out from just idling and getting hot..either they work..or they don't..as for the stator resistance..it calls for 50-200 per my machine..i'm guessing your bike has the same motor as mine ??..mine is a '89 trx350d foreman
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks again Helmut. The mechanic tested for voltage I think (light tester stuck in one of the fittings in the green plug and the other end grounded to the frame)....zero reading. I actually have the Honda service manual for the bike, so i'll check what it is supposed to be and then test for resistance. If the stator is shot, how big of a job am i looking at to replace it?

I'd be interested to hear what Shadetree has to say, as the photo of his bike in his profile looks identical to mine and he seems to know alot about it. I love my 350 more than any of my other toys and i just want it fixed. I had plans to go wheelin this weekend with some friends. So much for that! This is giving me the shits. Its kinda funny cause i just had my 1985 TRX 250 rebuilt (cam seat CNC work, new cam, rebuilt valves/rockers, new timing chain, head gask, etc.) and as soon as i got her home, the 350 died. WTF?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks shadetree. I'll check the resistance and report back when I figure this out.
 

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Thanks again Helmut. The mechanic tested for voltage I think (light tester stuck in one of the fittings in the green plug and the other end grounded to the frame)....zero reading. I actually have the Honda service manual for the bike, so i'll check what it is supposed to be and then test for resistance. If the stator is shot, how big of a job am i looking at to replace it?

I'd be interested to hear what Shadetree has to say, as the photo of his bike in his profile looks identical to mine and he seems to know alot about it. I love my 350 more than any of my other toys and i just want it fixed. I had plans to go wheelin this weekend with some friends. So much for that! This is giving me the shits. Its kinda funny cause i just had my 1985 TRX 250 rebuilt (cam seat CNC work, new cam, rebuilt valves/rockers, new timing chain, head gask, etc.) and as soon as i got her home, the 350 died. WTF?
Shadetree just posted above. You both must have been typing at the same time. LOL.

I would look in the manual and see what the resistance is supposed to be and then check it at the wiring plug. If it reads within specs, it's good.

I don't see how the mechanic was testing the stator with a test light, because the stator isn't going to put out any voltage if the ATV isn't running, unless he was cranking the engine over. Of course, he might have been cranking it over, I didn't ask. LOL. The correct way to check it is by checking resistance across it.
 

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here's a simple way to check your stator..as for charging anyway..turn the key on..put bike in nuetral..kick start it..watch the nuetral light..does it try to glow when you kick it ?.if it does..the charging side of your stator is good..now..keep in mind..there is two sides to these stators..one fires the spark plug..the other operates the lights and charges the battery...anyway..this is how you can check the stator to see if it's charging..oh..by the way..i spent 6 months restoring my 89 trx350d foreman..wouldn't take a brand new on off the show room floor for it !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yea must have been typing at the same time..ha! Anyway, he was placing the light tester as i mentioned and then hitting the start button to turn the motor over...checking for voltage. I'll let him know to check the voltage across the two wires coming from the stator. Thanks VM!
 

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here's a simple way to check your stator..as for charging anyway..turn the key on..put bike in nuetral..kick start it..watch the nuetral light..does it try to glow when you kick it ?.if it does..the charging side of your stator is good..now..keep in mind..there is two sides to these stators..one fires the spark plug..the other operates the lights and charges the battery...anyway..this is how you can check the stator to see if it's charging
Yeah, he needs to check the other side of the stator, because his isn't firing. I know you knew that Shadetree, but I wanted to make sure that he did.
 

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Yea must have been typing at the same time..ha! Anyway, he was placing the light tester as i mentioned and then hitting the start button to turn the motor over...checking for voltage. I'll let him know to check the voltage across the two wires coming from the stator. Thanks VM!
If he was cranking the engine over, then that should work with a test light. I would check the resistance across it with an ohmmeter to make sure, though. That's how the repair manuals usually say to check it.
 

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here's a simple way to check your stator..as for charging anyway..turn the key on..put bike in nuetral..kick start it..watch the nuetral light..does it try to glow when you kick it ?.if it does..the charging side of your stator is good..now..keep in mind..there is two sides to these stators..one fires the spark plug..the other operates the lights and charges the battery...anyway..this is how you can check the stator to see if it's charging
Yeah, he needs to check the other side of the stator, because his isn't firing. I know you knew that Shadetree, but I wanted to make sure that he did.
lol helmut..he could have a bad firing side to the stator..or pick up coil < pulse generator >..and if not that..c.d.i is history..butttttttt..check your kill switches and all..also your key switch..i have seen these go bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Gotcha. I'll take this info to him tomorrow and get him working on it. I'd love to toy with it myself, but I work all week and don't have the time. I'll reply when I know more. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
 

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I'll let him know to check the voltage across the two wires coming from the stator.
No, check resistance across the two wires, not voltage. Check resistance across the two wires with an ohmmeter and make sure you are not cranking the engine over when you check the resistance.
 

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Gotcha. I'll take this info to him tomorrow and get him working on it. I'd love to toy with it myself, but I work all week and don't have the time. I'll reply when I know more. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
food for thought..you mentioned something about the fan not working..well..these bikes have a relay control box that senses an engine over heating..when this happends..as for say..oil getting to hot..the control box senses this..and turns the fan on..now..if the fan won't come on..and yeah..you said you had this wired to a switch..this control box shuts the engine down..this is a safety feature they put into this bikes to keep the motor from seasing up..maybe something to think about.
 

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food for thought..you mentioned something about the fan not working..well..these bikes have a relay control box that senses an engine over heating..when this happends..as for say..oil getting to hot..the control box senses this..and turns the fan on..now..if the fan won't come on..and yeah..you said you had this wired to a switch..this control box shuts the engine down..this is a safety feature they put into this bikes to keep the motor from seasing up..maybe something to think about.
So Shadetree...i think you may be on to something here! The fan does work, but it is on a manual switch. The guy who owned the bike before me must have had problems with the thermostat and decided to wire it to a simple switch. If the relay control box tried to turn the fan on and it wouldn't (because its hardwired and was in the off position) and shut the engine down, would it not allow the engine to start once it cooled? If not, how do i go about fixing that problem? How do I disengage the relay control switch or otherwise allow the engine to start again? Is it still worth checking the stator resistance (thanks for the clarification Helmut) or should i be more focused on the relay control for the fan?
 

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food for thought..you mentioned something about the fan not working..well..these bikes have a relay control box that senses an engine over heating..when this happends..as for say..oil getting to hot..the control box senses this..and turns the fan on..now..if the fan won't come on..and yeah..you said you had this wired to a switch..this control box shuts the engine down..this is a safety feature they put into this bikes to keep the motor from seasing up..maybe something to think about.
So Shadetree...i think you may be on to something here! The fan does work, but it is on a manual switch. The guy who owned the bike before me must have had problems with the thermostat and decided to wire it to a simple switch. If the relay control box tried to turn the fan on and it wouldn't (because its hardwired and was in the off position) and shut the engine down, would it not allow the engine to start once it cooled? If not, how do i go about fixing that problem? How do I disengage the relay control switch or otherwise allow the engine to start again? Is it still worth checking the stator resistance (thanks for the clarification Helmut) or should i be more focused on the relay control for the fan?
well..yes..you do need to see if your stator is working..and i'm not sure how you go about checking the control box for the fan..i just change it out with another one..and see if the fan comes on..now..keep in mind..these bikes have to get reallyyyyyyy hot..before the control box sends the signal to turn the fan on..you can not get the fan to come on..by simply letting it set there and idle..they have to be road hard and long before they get hot enough for the fan to come on. anyway..the control box that operates the fan..mine is under the front left fender on the frame..should be near the headlight..is on mine anyway..not sure where yours is ??..but..if you find it..try unpluggin it..and see if you get spark ?..if not..then i would either say your stator..pulse generator..or c.d.i could be giving you trouble..oh..and also your spark plug coil might not be getting a good ground..there is soooo many things that can go wrong with these..that will keep you from getting fire..oh..i don't know if you know this or not..but..if your not getting a nuetral light when you turn the key on..you won't ever get any spark to the plug..simply because the c.d.i doesn't know it's in nuetral....make sure your nuetral light comes on when you turn the key on..then go from there..keep me posted.
 
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