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1991 honda 250x help

7K views 38 replies 6 participants last post by  shadetree 
#1 ·
just recently bought 250x for my girl to ride with me. Don't have a manual and really don't want to spend the money buying one. Wondered if anyone could give alittle help this way. I also have a 300ex and going to be getting 400ex with the big bore in it. Also have a lt80 for the kids looking to get another one besides the 80. Kids got to play too of course.....
 
#4 ·
Firing...lol

ok, first of all i got this thing with no coil (250x 1991) The guy tells me it needs a cdi, but it was rite there in plain sight. How do i test the cdi box? Also the decompression on the front of the motor (i'm guessing that is what it is) is not hooked up and slides rite out. (not sure it should slide out) there is a cable there but is not hooked up at either end. is this a problem? So i bought a new coil and it came with no boot for the plug. (sucks btw) headlight was gone but wiring was jacked up. So what now? got to get wired to see if it has spark. TRX2five0 is going to e-mail me the wiring diagram. So that is not so bad i guess. I just want to see if this thing is going to start before i get to deep
 
#5 ·
Welcome to the forums.

How do i test the cdi box?
There is no test for the CDI, other than replacing with a known good one.

Also the decompression on the front of the motor (i'm guessing that is what it is) is not hooked up and slides rite out. (not sure it should slide out) there is a cable there but is not hooked up at either end. is this a problem?
It shouldn't slide out. There should be a bolt that holds it in from the inside of the valve cover. There's a groove machined around the lever shaft and the end of the bolt fits in the groove to keep it from sliding out, but still allows the shaft to turn.

So i bought a new coil and it came with no boot for the plug.
The boot just screws on the end of the wire. A boot from any coil on any brand of ATV should work. You might be able to find a used one somewhere.
 
#6 ·
would like to add to helmuts post..before you go purchase a c.d.i.save that part for last..it may not need it..and they are not cheap !..check your stator..pulse generator..pick up coil..and fix your spark plug coil/wire..check all your ground leads..switches..so forth..after all this is done..and you still don't get spark at your plug..then get a c.d.i..make sure you get the same year and make..they have to be from the same year and make !
 
#7 ·
ok im gessing that i will have to tear off the valve head to get to the bolt that is not there? Don't have a manual so i am winging it......I work on million dollar machines at work but don't know to much about these four strokes, but am learning fast. don't look to promising to have this thing going by the weekend. thanks for the info though. So if i get the coil hooked up will the decompression thing suck air or leak like hell? i have no clue and don't wnt to try to kick the thing over if it is going to cause problems. what would you do helmet? also the guy that owned it prior to me has liquid gasket around the valve cover.(must have been to cheap to do it rite). could this be why the thing pulls out because he forgot to put the bolt back in?
 
#9 ·
get you some hondabond..or yamahbond..both do the same thing..you will need this anyway if and when you pull the rocker box off. as for the decompression lever..worst case..it will leak oil..thats about it..best thing to do..id remove your rocker box..see what part is missing that holds it in place..most times a bolt screws down through it..or a small metal rod looking pin thing.
 
#10 ·
Yeah, if the decompressor lever slides out, it will just leak oil. I would pull the valve cover off and put a bolt in it to keep the lever from sliding out. Just use Hondabond on the valve cover. Depending on the ATV, some use valve cover gaskets and some come out with Hondabond from the factory. Hondabond will work fine.
 
#11 ·
the decompressor is held in place by a roll pin and there should be an oil seal too.
 
#12 ·
I couldn't remember, it's been a long time since I had the valve cover off of a 250X. The Fourtrax 300 uses a bolt to hold the decompressor lever in and I figured it was the same, but I guess not. LOL.
 
#14 ·
More than likely it was left out. If you look at a service manual it tells you to remove it when your rebuilding the top-end to replace the o-ring seal.
 
#15 ·
i agree..it can't just fall off once the rocker box is put back on..it has to be pulled out..and it don't come out very easy..lol.
 
#16 ·
No they don't if it didn't leak before I don't mess with it. Nor do I mess with the rocker arm rods.
 
#17 ·
speaking of the rocker arm rods..lol..my trx350 has one of those roll pins on each end..they suckkkkkk trying to get them out..to change the seals on them..lmao.
 
#18 ·
I wouldn't screw with the personally, just because they are a beyoch to remove
 
#19 ·
ok, with you guys knowing so much about this thing. Putting it back together should be a snap. I will be spending all day tomorrow going through the wiring to see if i can get some spark out of this bad boy. if it starts then off with the valve cover to get that all proper. then will be asking more questions i am sure of it. like how to unfreeze front brake line. there is no fluid in it, is that going to stop it from pulling? or is it froze? also will need to find out where the cable goes to for the decompression. Right at the moment just goes straight back and is laying on the motor. Also where would be a good place to pick up some bolts for this thing(that don't cost a arm and a leg) I know that i will be needing 12mm and 14mm but what is the diameter of the threads? Sorry to ramble on but i want this thing to end up like brand new(just needs alittle tlc). I will try to get some pic on here once i figure out how of course. then you guys can see first hand on what i am dealing with. thanks for all the support. very much appreciated.
 
#21 ·
the decompression cable runs back to the kick starter..at least thats what i remember on them ??..as for the bolts..they are metric..sometimes you can get them off ebay..but..any hardware store carries metric bolts..sorry i don't know the thread size..but..if you got a tap-die set..you can use this to compare the threads...i never remember the thread size..lol..i always just go by the head bolt size..remind me what is on the front for brakes ..disk ?..or shoes ?..sorry..it's been awhile..i do sooo many bikes..i can't keep up with them all !..lmao.
 
#23 ·
There should be a bleeder on the calliper if it's froze you can crack the line at the calliper, remove the resovior cap and stick a small screwdriver in the little black rubber opening in the bottom, this will allow fliud to flow. once you see fluid start to come out of the line at the calliper tighten it up, then do the other side. the decomp cable connects to the head of course and then it runs to another lever I believe on the right side behind the kick lever. Check Ebay and do a store search for GDH Racing. he wont have any 250X parts but the 300EX bolts will all be the same.
Before you remove the rocker cover look at all the bolt heads on the cover beside the center bolts you will see tiny arrows well at each of those bolts will have a brass washer and will need to be put right back in those spots with the arrows. KEEP EM COMING
 
#24 ·
agreed on all but one thing..those washers are not brass..they are copper..and they act like sealing washers on those bolts. as trx said..keep um comming..lmfao.
 
#28 ·
ok, back again. got the wiring rite. for the most part. got the thing to spark anyhow. tried to start it with no luck. took carb off and cleaned it. while the carb was off tested it for bang and got a fire flames rite away.( good or bad i'm guessing good) so i put the carb on, and nothing unless i gave it gas to prime then the very next kick i got a sputter. then nothing unless i gave it gas again then the sputter again. (actually popped the carb rite off a few different times) so i took the carb mostly apart and cleaned all the holes in the thing and made sure the needles were clean. also made sure the float pin was working. still the same thing. what should i try next?
 
#29 ·
Check to make sure you are getting good fuel also remove the bowl nut and drain the carb off. try that and see what you get.
 
#30 · (Edited)
i took it all apart again and cleaned the most of it again. throttle body still looked real clean so i didn't bother. I am draining the gas from the tank now to make sure it is not bad gas. hopefully this is my problem. question: what are the setting on my mixture screw suppost to be? I believe it is at 1 1/2 now(fuel mix)
 
#35 ·
Do you have good Spark? out high grade fuel in do not use the cheap low octane, I would mix half and half of 108 and 93 octane personally.
 
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