[Tayman923]

Hello all, so I’m working on a 88 trx350d. Had some basic issues that just a carb cleaning and some tuning could fix. Needed some electrical help as to where the owner took it upon himself to jerry rig some stuff up. So I was cleaning up some of the electrical. When I started, the neutral light and oil temp light worked and start button triggered starter. I was trying to reverse engineer his fuel pump wiring to bring it back to oem spec on of the wire arced or the frame and now I have nothing in the switch. This is what ive checked. The battery is a brand new, a acid filled and was trickle charged until completely ready. I have power to my solenoid. When solenoid is arced the starter engages and turns the bike over. Have checked the 5 fuses in the black box in the battery compartment. All fuses were still good but I went ahead and replaced away, just in case. Checked the big black 30amp fuse sliver and it’s good. With my test light I checked pos terminal of battery to frame, good, battery side of solenoid to frame, good, both sides of 30amp fuse, good, have check all quick connections I can see for tightness, good. I’m at a loss. And with it like this I have no spark I don’t think. Anything I check?


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[Tayman923]

Here are some pictures, as you can see my headlights still work so I’m getting power to my switch I think but I can’t figure why this sudden issue has came. I figured it must be a fuse but I can’t find one that’s blown

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[shadetree]

sounds and looks like your not getting power to the ignition switch. when your checking that big silver fuse, are you checking both sides of it ?. check to make sure all fuses are getting power across them..not just to one side. if all that shows good ?, pull the ignition switch plug under front fender, and test to see if your getting power to there ?, and back out of ignition switch ?.

 

[shadetree]

and whats with the yellow wire crimped on harness at battery ?, where and what does that go to ?. I know that is not factory.

 

[Tayman923]

sounds and looks like your not getting power to the ignition switch. when your checking that big silver fuse, are you checking both sides of it ?. check to make sure all fuses are getting power across them..not just to one side. if all that shows good ?, pull the ignition switch plug under front fender, and test to see if your getting power to there ?, and back out of ignition switch ?.

That’s his fan power he pulled. I’ve traced it to a switch he put on so he can activate his fan at will. As with the big silver fuse I do have a light, when using the test light, across both sides. Now the little fuse box with 5 fuses, the far left fuse which is labeled as the “consent” fuse has a light on both ended with key OFF. none of the other fuses have power with the key off. With the key on all the other fuses have power on both sides except the far right which is labeled as “spare”.


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[Tayman923]

You can see he def made this a one of a kind bike lol

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[Tayman923]

And before we get too far Mr. Shadetree, you charging me a beer every word or reply?? Lol


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[shadetree]

And before we get too far Mr. Shadetree, you charging me a beer every word or reply?? Lol


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no..advice is free, learning is priceless !..lol.

 

[shadetree]

ok, fuses at rear show ok for now, let me know what you find out at the ignition switch plug at the front ?, do you get power through the big red wire harness side from battery ?.

 

[Tayman923]

And before we get too far Mr. Shadetree, you charging me a beer every word or reply?? Lol





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no..advice is free, learning is priceless !..lol.

Lol just have seen in some of your previous responses you’ve said stuff like that. Anywho this is what I see under the right hand fender. There are two big plugs, a red and a faint yellow/clear type color, but are about 12 quick connections. Which should I check for power and I’m assuming the keys needs to be on.

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[Tayman923]

The 5 connections in the 4th pic where I’m spreading them. Those look to go to the CDI. The yellowish plug looks to go up to the switch but I can’t quite follow it with all the jibberish in this thing. And I can’t see the red where it goes at all.


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[Tayman923]

Blue/ red stripe- no light
Greenish/ red stripe- light

Grey- no light
Black/ orange stripe- light


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[Tayman923]

What I’m pointing to in the neutral light, which has the black/orange stripe and greenish/red stripe wires. Both of which had power.


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[Tayman923]

Bulb looks good out of neutral socket


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[Tayman923]

Neither of these two show a light when I stick a test light in.


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[shadetree]

the 5 bullet connectors in your pic, should be a red wire there ?.

 

[Tayman923]

Nvm on the last message. I forgot to plug it back together lol. So now the little white end had power when I first checked it. Now it doesn’t. And the neutral light has power. When I turned on the key this time the oil temp light lit, then went out so I know the bulb is good, switches bulbs and still have no light.


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[shadetree]

Neither of these two show a light when I stick a test light in.


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because your not getting power to ignition switch ?, or out of it ?.

 

[shadetree]

Nvm on the last message. I forgot to plug it back together lol. So now the little white end had power when I first checked it. Now it doesn’t. And the neutral light has power. When I turned on the key this time the oil temp light lit, then went out so I know the bulb is good, switches bulbs and still have no light.


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if you have a neutral light when key is turned on ?, and oil light, then the oil temp light goes out..this is normal. if this is taken place ?, then the ele start button should work ?, if not ?, then your starter solenoid is bad ?, or the push button behind the start button on the switch is bad ?.

 

[Tayman923]

If these are the ones you’re talking about then no red wire here. They come from the cdi box with these colors and leave with the same ones.

There are a few red wires in This set of bullet connectors. Want me to check them?

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