[Farmboy78]

New cdi new stator new pick up coil new volt reg/rec new battery. I ohmed out all the wires in wiring harness, both fuses checked with a meter. Kill switch and ignition switch checked with a meter. No spark I’ve narrowed it down to one of two things 1) bad starter motor not cranking fast enough. 2) bad magnets in flywheel, with either stator all I can get is 5-6vac I know this is not enough voltage to get the cdi to fire. So my question is has anyone has this problem before? If so what fixed it?

 

[Goober]

Click my links in my sig block in case you don’t have a service manual. Ignition diagnostics page 20.

When switching on Does your oil light come on momentarily then go out? If not then you may need an oil sensor and or alarm unit. Diagnostics will explain how you check the oil sensor and then measure continuity/power to the alarm unit.

Let us know what you find.

 

[Manny]

did you buy OEM honda electrical parts or Chinese?

 

[Farmboy78]

Yes the oil light does come on momentarily. I did not think that the alarm box would trip out the cdi.

 

[SamUK]

Where did you source your new parts from? Are they known good brand and/or from a reputable supplier? If any are eBay/amazon parts I’d urge you to replace them with known good brand or used OEM. A LOT of the time we see people replacing parts and chasing problems because the new parts were China made and not functioning correctly from day one.

 

[Farmboy78]

It was Chinese knock off stuff, but all I can get is 5-6vac output from either stator. This leads me to believe the original stator is not bad, two stators same voltage the problem lies somewhere else. My real question in all this is has anyone else ever had the magnets in the flywheel go bad? I know It’s very uncommon but surly this has happened to someone.

 

[Goober]

My vague understanding is the 1988 is a one-off electrical system. I am sure that not all electrical components are interchangeable–check my parts links–you may find the 88 stator is 31120-HC4-750–used 88-91 only.
Some ebay sellers are not picky about their postings others not knowledgeable. I use oem only.

 

[Duck0fDeath]

I'd be concerned about the CDI if it's not OEM. That China crap is known to be bad right out of the box. I had an issue with one an an outboard motor once and I replaced a bunch of stuff that didn't need it because I assumed the new off brand CDI i got was good. Won't do that again.

 

[Farmboy78]

If I was getting proper voltage out of the stator I’d be inclined to think that the replacement CDI was no good. If I set a peice of metal inside the flywheel it takes almost no effort to pull it out. I’ve done this before with other flywheels and it was much more difficult to do the same. I’m going to take an educated guess here and try a different flywheel that came from a running unit. I will keep everyone posted.

 

[Farmboy78]

Ok so finally got a different flywheel, same results. Two different stators two different flywheels all I get is 5-6vac only commonality left is the starter but motor seems to be turning over just fine. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[Duck0fDeath]

I doubt if the starter is the issue. It would have to be noticeably slower cranking to cause an issue. I don't have a 300. Does the manual for the 300 have you test for voltage on the stator leads? Do you have to test while cranking the engine? Most stator tests I've used are looking for resistance readings or short to ground on the AC leads. If it's not shorted to ground it's probably good. I'd forget about the voltage readings on the stator for now and start the ignition system troubleshooting procedure from the manual. Don't skip steps or assume anything based on parts you've already replaced. Alternatively, you could get an OEM CDI. My guess is CDI. We don't need to guess though. Use the manual.

 

[Duck0fDeath]

How are you testing for AC voltage on the stator? Between the two AC leads, correct?

 

[Goober]

New cdi new stator new pick up coil new volt reg/rec new battery. I ohmed out all the wires in wiring harness, both fuses checked with a meter. Kill switch and ignition switch checked with a meter. No spark I’ve narrowed it down to one of two things 1) bad starter motor not cranking fast enough. 2) bad magnets in flywheel, with either stator all I can get is 5-6vac I know this is not enough voltage to get the cdi to fire. So my question is has anyone has this problem before? If so what fixed it?

Have you checked the spark plug number? Did you install the OEM resistor plug cap on the coil?

Well you could rebuild the starter if it’s not cranking fast enough but I’d think it would kick start. Did you install a battery rated for your model quad?

If you’re into the stator did you check the pulse coil?

I am suspicious of the aftermarket parts; I only use OEM and, especially with the 300, you have to know what year you’re outfitting.

 

[Farmboy78]

Ok so finally got a different flywheel, same results. Two different stators two different flywheels all I get is 5-6vac only commonality left is the starter but motor seems to be turning over just fine. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[shadetree]

kinda a dumb question ( depends huh ?..lol ) buttttttttttt..when you turn the key on, are you getting a neutral light on the dash ? if not ?, it won't fire the spark plug !. have you checked/cleaned all the ignition switch bullet connectors behind the black plastic box under the front fender/under the bars ?.

 

[Farmboy78]

Yes the neutral light is coming on. I’ve checked cleaned and ohmed out all wires and connections. I need to know what the output voltage of the stator is when it’s cranking.

 

[shadetree]

Yes the neutral light is coming on. I’ve checked cleaned and ohmed out all wires and connections. I need to know what the output voltage of the stator is when it’s cranking.

I don't have a service manual on hand, but I can tell you, you will need a peak voltage meter to check it, and it will be AC voltage.

 

[shadetree]

OP, just so you know ?, stators have 2 charging circuits to them !. one side is for re-charging the battery ( 12 volts ) the other side is for operating the c.d.i. electronics. soooooooo..the AC side will go to the reg/rec..which converts it to 12 volt DC for the lights/battery, and the other side will fire the pulse generator ( pick up coil )..which then sends signal to c.d.i….spark plug coil...then spark plug. make sure to check the ground wire from spark plug coil to frame ?, all ground cables from engine to frame ?. '' kill '' switch is centered and clean ?, I have seen some '' kill '' switches be nasty, and ground the spark plug coil, and not fire plug.

 

[Farmboy78]

I did finally find some info that says the cdi only needs 3vac to fire. I’m getting 5-6vac I’m thinking the cdi I got is no good.

 

[retro]

The type of ignition system on all Honda utility ATVs, except for the Recon and the 86-87 TRX350A, are DC-CDI units. That means the stator has nothing to do with the ignition except on those two bikes. The stator is for the charging system only on all others.

fLeebay and scamazon china knockoff CDIs being sold for the early 300s are AC-CDI units and the chinese sellers know that. As you were advised earlier, you'll need an OEM Honda CDI and any other OEM parts that have been swapped out for china garbage.

Before you start buying parts make sure that china CDI didn't fry your ignition switch, kill switch and/or your pulse generator the moment you turned the key on... its common. Check the neutral switch too. Rarely do folks ever get off without frying something.

Let us know how it goes.