[Sammyjo0512]

1988 Honda trx200sx engine has no spark. I have the engine and wiring harness and all the other electrical components. When I turn the key on the reverse and neutral indicator lights come on but when I shift out of neutral the neutral light goes off but the reverse light stays on all the time. I don’t know if this has something to do with the no spark deal but I’m pretty sure it shouldn’t be like that. If anyone has any tests I could do or any suggestions at all I’m all ears thanks

 

[retro]

First question: Are all of the parts on the bike OEM original Honda parts? Including all of the ignition components and all switches assemblies? If not, tell us which ones are aftermarket.

Next question: Are the wiring harnesses and connector plugs in good original condition with no hacks, repairs or splices anywhere? Everything plugged into clean connectors?

While waiting for those answers get a copy of the service manual HERE and read section 15. Report back and we'll continue... Welcome to the forums!

 

[Sammyjo0512]

No they are not all oem the key switch, CDi and ignition coil are not. The wiring harness in good condition with no cuts or anything

 

[fishfiles]

Well most will tell you the first thing to do is replace all the after market electrical parts with OEM parts as after market is Chinese parts are worthless ------ but , I would know in your situation finding parts for a 200SX is like finding a leprechaun

 

[retro]

There is a chance that the chinese CDI is made for a DC-CDI ignition system rather than an AC-CDI ignition which your bike has. The ignition switch might be meant for a DC-CDI as well. The chinese lie about their garbage parts, saying they'll fit every bike, so you'll have to figure out which parts they actually sold you... whether they actually work... and whether anything else on the bike got fried as soon as you plugged those parts in.

You'll need a decent multimeter to diagnose this... and you'll need to start at the beginning after removing those china parts from the bike.

You'll also need to have a copy of the service manual in front of you for reference while you work.

Let us know if you are prepared or not... or if you need any help.

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Alright thank you for the info I’m sixteen and I’m lacking funds because of car insurance so as soon as I get money it will be going to this so I guess I can test the parts I have right now.

 

[retro]

Yeah, buying parts might not fix your bike so don't ever throw money at it until you've diagnosed issues properly.

Do you have a decent multimeter?

I can help you get it sorted out (in all my spare time) if you do..?

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Yes I have a decent multimeter I guess it checks ohms and volts both dc and ac so i think I do

 

[retro]

OK, put the original OEM ignition switch back in the bike and plug it back into the harness. Put the original ignition coil back in the bike and plug it back in.

Remove the CDI from the bike.

If there is any reason why you can't put the original ignition switch back in it (lost key or whatever...?) let me know before we begin testing. Then...

1st step (this is precautionary, making sure the correct switches are on the bike):
Turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position. Put the kill switch on the handlebar in the "Run" position. Set your multimeter mode to DC volts.

Now, at the CDI connector plug, hold the red multimeter lead on the Black wire with a White stripe (Bl/W) terminal in the CDI plug, while holding the black multimeter lead on a frame or engine ground. There should be 0 volts DC shown on your meter. If you get a voltage reading stop testing and tell me. If you read 0 volts continue...

2nd Step:
Leave the ignition switch turned on and the kill switch in the run position. Set your multimeter to the ohms test mode or the continuity test mode, depending on how your meter works... Again, at the CDI connector plug, hold the red multimeter lead on the Black wire with a White stripe (Bl/W) terminal in the CDI plug, while holding the black multimeter lead on a frame or engine ground. Your meter should show 0L (or 0 ohms) and no continuity. Report back with your findings for this test.

 

[Sammyjo0512]

I do not have the oem key I am using a generic 4 wire key with the same wire colors

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Also i don’t have the handle bar switches sorry I’m not the best with electrical stuff

 

[retro]

Aye... no handlebar switches at all? We can test the aftermarket ignition switch before putting it on the bike... but you need the OEM handlebar switches assembly before we can continue. Got any ideas where you might find one?

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Maybe ebay or an atv junkyard or something but there’s no wires on the harness i can connect or a toggle switch I can hook up?

 

[retro]

I'm, sorry. I'd be tickled if I could help you fix your bike right. But I am not going to help you continue with it cobbled up.

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Alright sorry I’ll get that part and I’ll reply again when I get it. Does it need to be from 88 or can it be from any of the three years this bike ran?

 

[retro]

The handlebar switches assembly can be from a 87 or 88 TRX200SX only. The 86 TRX200SX will not interchange.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35200-HB3-003

Update this thread when you get one plugged into the harness.

In the meantime... we should test that aftermarket ignition switch before you plug it into the bike. Hang on a minute while I look at the diagram... be right back...

 

[retro]

OK, on the aftermarket ignition switch you should have 4 wires with bullet connectors. A Black/White stripe male, a Green male, a Red male, and a Black female. Does your switch match?

 

[Sammyjo0512]

Yes it matches up

 

[retro]

OK good. Perform these tests with the ignition switch disconnected from the bike. Set your multimeter to the continuity test mode. Hold the meter leads onto the Black/White stripe wire male connector and the Green wire male connector. With the ignition switch turned to the "Off" position there should be continuity. And with the switch turned to the "On" position there should be no continuity.

Then put your meter leads on the Red wire male connector and the Black wire female connector. With the ignition switch turned to the "Off" position there should be no continuity. And with the switch turned to the "On" position there should be continuity.

Report back with your findings for both tests.

 

[Sammyjo0512]

OK the switch tested good