Honda ATV Forum banner

121 - 140 of 156 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
non-87 Foreman CDI?
Fan Control Unit?
I ordered it on ebay for $40. Have a hard time justifying $160 from Partszilla for an ATV that I paid $100 for. Numbers match. Is there no way to test a CDI?. The Fan Control unit seems to work. I ordered Nuetral and Reverse switches from Partszilla and they do not work. Grounding the wire does.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
We talked about this huh? now to buy an OEM module?
would you put a Caltric on a 305 Dream? No! With these antiques I don’t sweat the bucks—for me it’s authentic or expect disappointment.

BTW if you put a D model CDI in an A model, the neutral light won’t go out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
We talked about this huh? now to buy an OEM module?
would you put a Caltric on a 305 Dream? No! With these antiques I don’t sweat the bucks—for me it’s authentic or expect disappointment.

BTW if you put a D model CDI in an A model, the neutral light won’t go out.
I appreciate your position. Had to Google Caltric and 305 dream. When ordering I see nothing about D model and A model, So how do you determine? Again, is there a way to test a CDI? I still do not know that the original is bad. The manual only tests incoming to the CDI. Not the CDI or outgoing. I am following the manual.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
no diagnostic test for CDI—keep all that you have for now. I recommend you get the genuine Honda part from Partzilla or Rocky Mountain. You could take a chance on used but again there’s no way to test.

You have a good battery in it? These require a good battery.
When switching on, your neutral light should come on steady and the oil light should come on momentarily and then go out. Your neutral light won’t come on? This is a key problem that we can evaluate. How bout the oil light?

Using your manual wire schematic, look around to see where the connectors are. When switched on, wiggle the connector where it is attached to that black plastic harness holder. Does the neutral light flash like the wire is bad? Those switch connectors and wires are easy to break at that black harness piece.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Red oil light comes on and goes out after a few seconds Neutral light does not come on even though I am in neutral, I can push the ATV forward and backwards. So I ground the wire and the neutral light works. This is a new neutral switch from Partszilla.
This ATV is not like yours. It is in rough shape.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
How about if you swap neutral and reverse wires. Does the neutral light come on when you shift to reverse? Does the reverse light come on in nuetral?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Without it running. I do not fully trust that all of the gearing is moving in the right places. My post 74 shows the condition that "NEW" switches tested. My main goal is to get it running and then troubleshoot. I want to see if it is worth continuing to rebuild.
CDI is wrong part and I am shipping it back for refund. They shipped me a ZX-ZL-002 which appears to be a Kawasaki part. The existing CDI is a Shindengen HA7 C1537. I have no idea if it is the original. Partzilla part number is a Shindengen 30410-HA7-751. I want to order the right part this time. Any help would be appreciated. I have lost several weeks on this.
I tried some voltage checks. The pulse generator has the correct ohms. But get no voltage. Tried troubleshooting with an old analog Simpson meter. They work better for pulsing voltage. Nothing. Nothing going to the Ignition coil.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Ok that sounds promising. The OEM CDI are Shindengen and are probably marked HA7; those numbers may not mean anything—if they do I’m not aware of it.

@shadetree may know if there’s a transmission device that depresses that neutral switch.

I don’t think you will get voltage from the pulse generator unless the engine (stator output) is rotating. You say pulse generator resistance is good. Have you tested the stator resistances yet? You can easily test for stator output by testing at the battery through the reg/rec. but engine has to be running to get a good reading I’m not sure if you’ll see a transient reading if you kick it.

Simple analog meters can be good for these checks.

nothing to indicate that you have the correct CDI though.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,518 Posts
Ok that sounds promising. The OEM CDI are Shindengen and are probably marked HA7; those numbers may not mean anything—if they do I’m not aware of it.

@shadetree may know if there’s a transmission device that depresses that neutral switch.

I don’t think you will get voltage from the pulse generator unless the engine (stator output) is rotating. You say pulse generator resistance is good. Have you tested the stator resistances yet? You can easily test for stator output by testing at the battery through the reg/rec. but engine has to be running to get a good reading I’m not sure if you’ll see a transient reading if you kick it.

Simple analog meters can be good for these checks.

nothing to indicate that you have the correct CDI though.
the neutral switch is pushed in from inside the right side cover by the cup that is bolted to the end of the shift drum.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,518 Posts
@Lowall, DO NOT PULL THE RIGHT SIDE COVER OFF UNLESS YOU HAVE FULLY READ AND UNDERSTAND WHAT ALL IS INVOLVED WITH PARTS BEHIND THE COVER !!.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Excellent! Thanks @shadetree

now,@Lowall, still want to keep this thing or wanna sell it?

I don’t think you lost any time—I’ve worked for two years to get my 86 in reliable condition. Used stator and reg/rec, new CDI, replaced every single harness , repaired Kill switch and that’s just the electrics. Here’s the story:

If you want to keep it, very important that you answer questions directly as we go to avoid misunderstandings. you see where possible fixes could lead—extra work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Excellent! Thanks @shadetree

now,@Lowall, still want to keep this thing or wanna sell it?

I don’t think you lost any time—I’ve worked for two years to get my 86 in reliable condition. Used stator and reg/rec, new CDI, replaced every single harness , repaired Kill switch and that’s just the electrics. Here’s the story:

If you want to keep it, very important that you answer questions directly as we go to avoid misunderstandings. you see where possible fixes could lead—extra work!
Okay. Have new Honda OEM CDI from Partszilla. Part numbers match the old existing CDI. 5 wires to the CDI. Per page 17-4 of the manual for Foreman Everything checks out. Bl/Y to G/W .2 ohms Bu/Y to G/W 336 ohms Bl/W to G/W 12.8 volts Lg/R and G/W get continuity plus the neutral light is on. Still no spark at the plug. Have checked plug. Ignition coil is new. Have turned it over several times. Have connected Simpson and digital meter at Ignition coil (both ends) and get nothing. Do you have any recommendations on other ways to check?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Okay. Have new Honda OEM CDI from Partszilla. Part numbers match the old existing CDI. 5 wires to the CDI. Per page 17-4 of the manual for Foreman Everything checks out. Bl/Y to G/W .2 ohms Bu/Y to G/W 336 ohms Bl/W to G/W 12.8 volts Lg/R and G/W get continuity plus the neutral light is on. Still no spark at the plug. Have checked plug. Ignition coil is new. Have turned it over several times. Have connected Simpson and digital meter at Ignition coil (both ends) and get nothing. Do you have any recommendations on other ways to check?
I should ad that the 2 plugs seats perfect and it is very clean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Other than the Ohm's test on the pulse generator is there another way to test it. I put a jumper in line at the plug by the gas tank valve. hooked up a meter and got no reading while cranking the engine. seems like I should get a pulse. How difficult is it to get to it? Do you need gaskets or other parts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Did you ever get a neutral light?

Here’s a pic of my stator — pulse generator is in the forward portion of the case cover. You see it next to the end of the green plug. it’s possible your stator is bad so check those yellow wires pin to pin—the should all have about .1 to .2? Ohms resistance with each other and no connection to ground.
It is not difficult to remove to case but yes you need a left side gasket and CAReFUL—see that red rag on the shift shaft? When removing the case cover, do not let the shift shaft pull out! You might have to then remove the right side case.Toughest thing is removing the prop shaft. Follow the manual

150985


150984
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Oh i see you have a neutral light.

stator resistance test on page 18-4.

When you disco the oil sensor wire and ground it to the foot peg, the oil light and fan should come on.

Well i think you’re doing Ok—a lotta work here. Don’t give up I would continuity check all the wires starting with ignition system
150986
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
69 Posts
Checking the plug, checks all of the wiring. IE you would not get 12,8 volts on BL/W at the CDI plug if the wires were bad. Currently I get a neutral light because I have grounded the wire. It is in neutral because I can push it forward and backwards. They are new switches, will troubleshoot later. Will do stator test today. I have even tested the sparkplug.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Yes and same time you are getting 12.8V at the Bl/G wire going to pump relay?
Do you hear your fuel pump buzz at all?

drain some fuel out of the carb with the drain screw. It’s intentionally empty now. Master switch on. Hold throttle open slightly.
Try kicking it over with the kick start—you should hear the fuel pump buzz. If not that’s a problem
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,289 Posts
Good.
Ok I agree with you that the pulse generator should be providing that signal to the CDI thru Bu/Y. That signal is initiated by the stator. My understanding is that a good battery gives the initial juice for startup. So if you’re not getting any spark at all, replacing the pulse generator—even though it passes the resistance check, could be my next move.
 
121 - 140 of 156 Posts
Top