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Yes the baffle fits loose just be careful that it’s aligned properly when installing the bowl or you might damage the baffle.
how does the passage plug look?

I always spray my carbs with Deep Creep, put them in a ziplock bag and chill them in a freezer. This helps contract the metal a bit. But you need to get all the water out first.
If you strip a screw you may be able to use a dremel cutting wheel to cut a straight bit into it.
K&L sells a carb kit with all the screws, jets and gaskets. I don’t usually recommend aftermarket but this is a good kit.
The passage plug was intact but I replaced. It all cleaned up using electronic spray. I got the 4 screws out and purchased 4 new with hex heads.
 

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I use Berryman Chemtool
The very bottom of the carb (bottom of the bowl) has a drain line or something that fuel is flowing out of. I assume that mine is missing this 3/16" hose. Do you know where this hose goes to? or should I plug it?
 

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The very bottom of the carb (bottom of the bowl) has a drain line or something that fuel is flowing out of. I assume that mine is missing this 3/16" hose. Do you know where this hose goes to? or should I plug it?
It is shown on the far right side of page 4-12 in the manual.
 

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That must be the carb draining

either your float needle is not seating or your carb drain screw is not seating.
 

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That must be the carb draining

either your float needle is not seating or your carb drain screw is not seating.
The carb drain screw is Right next to the carb drain I assume (not shown in any pictures) is that supposed to be all of the way in ie tight? When I turn on the pump the bowl fills with fuel and then it over flows after about 3 seconds. When I put it together it The bowl does not quite seat (less than 1/16" until I screw it down. Float and float needle seem to function ok.
 

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Yes the baffle fits loose just be careful that it’s aligned properly when installing the bowl or you might damage the baffle.
how does the passage plug look?

I always spray my carbs with Deep Creep, put them in a ziplock bag and chill them in a freezer. This helps contract the metal a bit. But you need to get all the water out first.
If you strip a screw you may be able to use a dremel cutting wheel to cut a straight bit into it.
K&L sells a carb kit with all the screws, jets and gaskets. I don’t usually recommend aftermarket but this is a good kit.
[/QUOTE
 

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Yes the baffle fits loose just be careful that it’s aligned properly when installing the bowl or you might damage the baffle.
how does the passage plug look?

I always spray my carbs with Deep Creep, put them in a ziplock bag and chill them in a freezer. This helps contract the metal a bit. But you need to get all the water out first.
If you strip a screw you may be able to use a dremel cutting wheel to cut a straight bit into it.
K&L sells a carb kit with all the screws, jets and gaskets. I don’t usually recommend aftermarket but this is a good kit.
I ordered the kit. Does not include the float or baffle.
 

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Which kit?
Float sold separately
Baffle No Longer Available
Honda gasket kit is good but includes no jets, no screws
Shindy rebuild kit includes everything except starter jet passage plug and screws.
Passage plug shown here installed on right side carb, removed from left.
150740
 

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Just got the kit and installed. Most parts looked good coming out. The float valve had corrosion on the metal but the rubber looked ok. Must have been worn because now it holds the fuel pump pressure and does not overflow. How do you know if it leaks if it just runs out on the ground when it leaks? to be honest it is not much holding it back. The part that looked the worse was the screw that goes into the side of the bowl. A replacement did not come in the kit. It was corroded on the end and the tip was deformed. Cleaned it up and screwed it back in tight.

Will probably attempt to start tomorrow.
 

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Which kit?
Float sold separately
Baffle No Longer Available
Honda gasket kit is good but includes no jets, no screws
Shindy rebuild kit includes everything except starter jet passage plug and screws.
Passage plug shown here installed on right side carb, removed from left.
View attachment 150740
You might read the other posts about the carb working. OK, trying to start. Engine turns over good. No spark. Followed instructions in section 17. Appears to be a bad Ignition coil as no continuity between green terminal and spark plug end of the ignition coil. Ordered a coil. Is there a better way to check the CDI. It shows checking the incoming wires which I did. only difference is BL/Y and G/W is .9 ohms not the .1 to .2 shown which is insignificant. Nothing really checks the CDI itself. While cranking noted good compression so getting close.
 

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You might read the other posts about the carb working. OK, trying to start. Engine turns over good. No spark. Followed instructions in section 17. Appears to be a bad Ignition coil as no continuity between green terminal and spark plug end of the ignition coil. Ordered a coil. Is there a better way to check the CDI. It shows checking the incoming wires which I did. only difference is BL/Y and G/W is .9 ohms not the .1 to .2 shown which is insignificant. Nothing really checks the CDI itself. While cranking noted good compression so getting close.
Also should note that it is in neutral ( you can push it back and forth) but the switch does not work. I have grounded the wire and get a light. The switch is new.
 

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Have you tested coil continuity with the spark plug cap off? Maybe wire corroded? If so clip off a half inch or so until you see clean wire. Remove the cap and shine strong light into wire end of the cap—clean with a small caliber copper or brass bore brush. Dress the contacts with dielectric grease
 

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Have you tested coil continuity with the spark plug cap off? Maybe wire corroded? If so clip off a half inch or so until you see clean wire. Remove the cap and shine strong light into wire end of the cap—clean with a small caliber copper or brass bore brush. Dress the contacts with dielectric grease
Does the "cap" come off? I read that but nothing seems to be able to come off. Looking at the spark plug connection point it looks ok.
 

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Have you tested coil continuity with the spark plug cap off? Maybe wire corroded? If so clip off a half inch or so until you see clean wire. Remove the cap and shine strong light into wire end of the cap—clean with a small caliber copper or brass bore brush. Dress the contacts with dielectric grease
Ok, I retested ignition coil and determined that it is okay. Everything else checks out ok per the manual. But there is no test for the CDI. How do I test the CDI or do you just buy another? Can the CDI be rebuilt? It appears to be a sealed box.
 

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No you can’t test it or rebuild it. Sometimes you can revive a CDI by heating or drying it in an oven. have done this to revive fan control modules.

Best to clean CDI first. Get some contact cleaner, plumbers flux brushes and permatex dielectric grease. Clean all the dirt off the contacts, seal and backshell of both connectors. Wipe down the module with a rag moistened with soapy water. Don’t wet it just wipe it. Look for cracks and bubbles in the potting that might indicate internal damage.

put CDI in oven connector side up. Turn oven on to no more than 200F. Heat it for at least three hours to drive off moisture and biofouling that might be interfering with circuits. Let module cool completely before you reinstall; dress contacts and backshell with a thin film of the permatex
 

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No you can’t test it or rebuild it. Sometimes you can revive a CDI by heating or drying it in an oven. have done this to revive fan control modules.

Best to clean CDI first. Get some contact cleaner, plumbers flux brushes and permatex dielectric grease. Clean all the dirt off the contacts, seal and backshell of both connectors. Wipe down the module with a rag moistened with soapy water. Don’t wet it just wipe it. Look for cracks and bubbles in the potting that might indicate internal damage.

put CDI in oven connector side up. Turn oven on to no more than 200F. Heat it for at least three hours to drive off moisture and biofouling that might be interfering with circuits. Let module cool completely before you reinstall; dress contacts and backshell with a thin film of the permatex
New CDI and new ignition coil. Every test done per the manual. All pass. No spark. Can you suggest any other tests. should I put a timing light in the circuit (have to dig deep to find it).
 

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New CDI and new ignition coil. Every test done per the manual. All pass. No spark. Can you suggest any other tests. should I put a timing light in the circuit (have to dig deep to find it).
and just where did you buy this c.d.i. ?. asking because the '87 is a one year only c.d.i. !. you can not use any other oem c.d.i.'s for this model !. and IF ?. you did buy the correct year for the c.d.i., where did you purchase it from ?.
 
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