Honda ATV Forum banner

81 - 100 of 106 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
Not anything worth messing with.
You could replace it with a plastic tank.
Mine has no rust after 3 years
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Could not suck it out with a hand pump. finally pressurized the tank through the gas cap vent. Some powdered rust came out before clogging. Will try more. Do you have a plastic tank recommendation?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,373 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,373 Posts
Do you know the metric size number for the petcock orings? Fuel guage is 56 x 2.6 mm.
you can go to harbor freight, purchase a metric and standard o-ring kit, they are cheap, have all sizes, thats what i did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Thought I would let you know what finally worked on the tank. Used Muriatic Acid. Strong stuff. Right fuel line was plugged. Used Heavy Weed Wacker line and drill. The last 3" was a heavy black tar like substance. Weed Wacker line is good because it is tough. Can take a lot of twisting. Used at least 30 strings a foot long+. Every 5 string or so I would apply air pressure with a coned shape rubber head on a blast nozzle. Eventually broke through with air. Ran several tanks of air through the line. Drained muriatic acid and flush with water 12 times or more. Until particles did not come out and only pure water.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
As bad as the Tank was I assume the carb is just as bad. For a rebuild kit do I just need the gasket set 16100-HA7-772 Or do I need more? Also I am at 6500 ft elev and will use this at 9000 ft elev. Do I need different jets?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
I will get you the o ring specs and jet part number tomorrow.
Stock is 142? and they recommend what I cannot remember.
In my first 86 i run a 138.5? at 3100-4000 ft it does well. I’m going to swap over to the 142–because my second 86 runs real well. It really helps to just have a spare carb
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
Ok petcock oring is an 8mm x 2mm seal. You can get them from Crown Products Inc in Tulsa part number 645080020

i have a 138.0 main jet i may try
Honda part 99101KPE1380

i use a 132.5 main jet it works well plenty of power
Guessing part number is 99101KPE1325
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Ok, Took a break, Back on it. Tank reinstalled, ordered carb gasket kit. Is there any maintenance on the fuel pump. I did electrically bump it and it runs. Do not want to run without fuel. As bad as the tank was I am concerned about the condition of the pump and carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Do you have to prime the fuel pump in a dry system. Tried to pump gas from the tank and routed a line from the pump back to the tank. Pump makes sligt chattering noise like it is trying. But does it give enough suction to pump from the bottom of the tank? Have about 2 gallons in the tank.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,373 Posts
Do you have to prime the fuel pump in a dry system. Tried to pump gas from the tank and routed a line from the pump back to the tank. Pump makes sligt chattering noise like it is trying. But does it give enough suction to pump from the bottom of the tank? Have about 2 gallons in the tank.
yes you need to suck some fuel to/through the pump...do not run it dry !!!.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
Although a good idea I haven’t primed a pump. You can use a vacuum I suppose to get fuel thru the filter, but I’ve never had a problem
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,373 Posts
Do you suck on a hose. I tried priming from both sides and still does not work.
suck on the fuel line leading from pump to carb, you should be able to draw fuel through the pump.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Got my new fuel pump today. It pumps like a champ. The old and the new sound the same. Could not suck fuel with the old, can with the new. Getting closer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
43 Posts
Started on the carb today. Could not get the choke disconnected so working it on top of the frame on a board. Screws very difficult to get out of the bowl. Had to use an impact driver. The carb was full of water, just like the crankcase and fuel tank. Last place this ATV must have been was a river. The "baffle" seems very loose. Is this normal? It seems to have a slot that it fits on. But nothing seems to hold it in place. Other wise cleaning the bowl and will reinstall. Will try to get new screws.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
38,373 Posts
Started on the carb today. Could not get the choke disconnected so working it on top of the frame on a board. Screws very difficult to get out of the bowl. Had to use an impact driver. The carb was full of water, just like the crankcase and fuel tank. Last place this ATV must have been was a river. The "baffle" seems very loose. Is this normal? It seems to have a slot that it fits on. But nothing seems to hold it in place. Other wise cleaning the bowl and will reinstall. Will try to get new screws.
that baffle just rest on top of the jet holder, it has a slot, the slot slides down over the ridge made into the side of the jet holder tube.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Goober

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,086 Posts
Yes the baffle fits loose just be careful that it’s aligned properly when installing the bowl or you might damage the baffle.
how does the passage plug look?

I always spray my carbs with Deep Creep, put them in a ziplock bag and chill them in a freezer. This helps contract the metal a bit. But you need to get all the water out first.
If you strip a screw you may be able to use a dremel cutting wheel to cut a straight bit into it.
K&L sells a carb kit with all the screws, jets and gaskets. I don’t usually recommend aftermarket but this is a good kit.
 
81 - 100 of 106 Posts
Top