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Gas cap is really frustrating. It moves very freely a little but not enough for the cogs (locks??) to come out and lock it in position. Have sprayed with penetrating oil several times. I came across a thread that insisted in not trying to take it apart. Have to admit I have manipulated. Using this number 17620-HA7-671 I find none on the market. Can you use another part number?
I am planning on acid cleaning the fuel tank. Muratic acid or Hydrocholoric acid. Do these hurt the fuel level float? Do you know it you can do it in place or do you have to remove it?
Vinegar as i presented in the attached thread
 

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Gas cap is really frustrating. It moves very freely a little but not enough for the cogs (locks??) to come out and lock it in position. Have sprayed with penetrating oil several times. I came across a thread that insisted in not trying to take it apart. Have to admit I have manipulated. Using this number 17620-HA7-671 I find none on the market. Can you use another part number?
 

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Gas cap is really frustrating. It moves very freely a little but not enough for the cogs (locks??) to come out and lock it in position. Have sprayed with penetrating oil several times. I came across a thread that insisted in not trying to take it apart. Have to admit I have manipulated. Using this number 17620-HA7-671 I find none on the market. Can you use another part number?
in case you may or may not know ?, you can't get the cogs to spring out, UNLESS YOUR PUSHING DOWN IN , AND AROUND THE CENTER OF THE CAP !.
 

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Okay, Quick question. I have the fuel tank out, vinegar and BB's on order (lock down makes all of this difficult) and the fuel filter out. By the condition of every thing I am sure this is the first time any of this has been removed. Do you replace these rinky dink hose clamp with a better clamp? While I have all of this out do you have any recommendations on what else should be done?
 

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I would take the fuel gauge sending unit out, take off the petcock; remove the cap.
Tape all holes with aluminum tape so the vinegar doesn’t leak out and get on your tank.
Do you have a cement mixer? Or are you just gonna shake it every once in awhile? 3-8 hours outta do it
Remember to rinse with a high pH solution not plain water.
Dry with hair dryer.
Some of that pH powder is going to dry in the tank leaving a powder that will plug up your filter. So rinse the tank two or three times with a cup or two of fuel.

Were you looking for a new sending unit? Can’t remember

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What do you consider to be a "high PH solution"? I was going to leave the petcock installed to also clean it and see the flow out of it. I can remove during the clean process and try to clean the tubes. I do not have a cement mixer. Hand shake. Rust is worse at the bottom.
 

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The petcock has three rubber seals that will be ruined by the vinegar

you have a hot tub? Use the pH adjustment powder to mix with water
 

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Ok. Vinegar has been in the tank several days. Inside still looks bad. But I have a bigger problem. The 2 lines to the petcock are plugged. I have been using a small compressor and it took a while but I got air thru the lines but it must be a very small hole as it builds up pressure. I can get heavy weed wacker line 6.5" deep on the left and 8.5" deep on the right and they stop dead. It comes out amazingly clean. I expected a lot of rust on the line. Weed wacker line is all that I have that I can get around the first turn. Small compressor builds up to 20 psi and does not clear the line. You can see it bubbling in the tank though. Tomorrow I plan on using high pressure from my large compressor. Up to 120 psi. I have rigged up a hose to the petcock and my air compressor fitting. Petcock show 3 positions. But seems to just have reserve and on. Does the off work?
 

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You have the petcock off yes? The vinegar may damage the seal.
Use a cut off piece of brake or throttle cable to clear the suction lines. You can use your drill to directionally bore thru the clog but be careful—don’t drill thru the intake screens
The petcock has three positions
On main suction line open; reserve closed
Res reserve line open; main line closed
Off both lines closed

petcock rebuilds
 

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Received the neutral and reverse switches. Took weeks. I fully expected during a continuity check to get continuity with 1 probe on the external body of the switch and 1 probe on the termination point when the plunger was depressed. I did not show continuity on either one or the old ones. Installed and do not get a neutral light. I can get a neutral light if I ground the wire.
Have been cleaning the tank. Several times. Flush with high pressure washer. Still getting large flakes of rust out. Do not have cement mixer so hand shaking. Lots of scale has come out. I mean lots.
 

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Still have not got 1 fuel line in the tank unplugged. Do you have an internal picture? Tried all sort of methods.
 

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yup here are the two lines—see the basket screen aft of the drain bolt?

i cut the end off of an old cable i had i think it was a brake cable. About 12-16 inches. It has the braided metal sticking out one end.

i laid my tank on side petcock holes up and filled the line with cutting oil—so I could see when it started to drain away into the tank.

I chucked the cable in my variable speed drill i used it and some cutting oil to slowly cut through the buildup in the line. Took about 5 minutes

go slow and don’t push too hard. You don’t want to get the cable bound up in the pipe, or cut thru the pipe, or cut into the basket screens. You’llKnow you’re progressing when the oil starts getting dirty. Keep it filled with cutting oil so you know when it’s draining. That will prevent you from cutting or hanging up in the screens

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150362
 

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yup here are the two lines—see the basket screen aft of the drain bolt?

i cut the end off of an old cable i had i think it was a brake cable. About 12-16 inches. It has the braided metal sticking out one end.

i laid my tank on side petcock holes up and filled the line with cutting oil—so I could see when it started to drain away into the tank.

I chucked the cable in my variable speed drill i used it and some cutting oil to slowly cut through the buildup in the line. Took about 5 minutes

go slow and don’t push too hard. You don’t want to get the cable bound up in the pipe, or cut thru the pipe, or cut into the basket screens. You’llKnow you’re progressing when the oil starts getting dirty. Keep it filled with cutting oil so you know when it’s draining. That will prevent you from cutting or hanging up in the screens

View attachment 150363

View attachment 150362
 

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I have not found the combination of stiff enough vs too stiff. I have a wire that was on a choke control but it is too stiff to get down the pipe. 9,5" is the furthest I have got down the pipe. Tried several others and they are too week and twist too much. If the inside of the screen area is anything like the rest of the tank it has a lot of rust trapped in the screen area. I can get compress air through but cannot suck. Right now soaking and running compressed air. Today I am going to rig a pump up.
 

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have you laid the tank on it’s side and filled up the clogged pipe? Pour some straight cleaning vinegar in it—it’s 6% as opposed to regular 5%

Go to hardware store and see what kinds of cable they have. I’m sure they have some small plastic coated cable you can mount in a drill. Like directional boring—open up the end of that cable a bit so it can scrape away.
 
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