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Oh no. You’re gonna want another main harness. I bought one last year for $65–here’s a pic after I completely rewrapped it
150001


you’ll have to make sure it’s for an 87 Foreman
32100-HA7-750

 

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Oh no. You’re gonna want another main harness. I bought one last year for $65–here’s a pic after I completely rewrapped it View attachment 150001

you’ll have to make sure it’s for an 87 Foreman
32100-HA7-750

before you go telling him he needs another harness ?, you and him need to find out what those connectors go to ?, cuz they dont go to the c.d.i. !.
 

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I figured out today why not much works. This is an as found picture of the CDI wiring. View attachment 149998
after going back through my '88 trx350 build, those connectors hanging there ?, those go to the fuel gauge ( fuel meter ) on right inner fender, they wont stop the atv from running if you dont have it hooked up. what ever your problem is ?, its not this that you posted !.
 

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before you go telling him he needs another harness ?, you and him need to find out what those connectors go to ?, cuz they dont go to the c.d.i. !.
Ok i see having looked closer at the ebay harness—had the same connectors
150007
 

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Okay further on. Those were the wires to the fuel gauge and are on the back burner now. Neutral wire is next subject. I can ground the wire with a jumper (I am not use to ground in circuits) and get a neutral light. Same for the Reverse light. Better yet I have pushed The ATV back and forth and feel that it is in neutral (it rolls freely). But cannot get a neutral light by plugging in or using a jumper. Not positive about a good plug in. About ready to cut off rubber and repair with heat shrink. Have pushed down on the shifter to try and get a real neutral. Is it positively in neutral if i can push it forward and backward? With the wire grounded, with a jumper the starter cranks and there is at least some compression. Which brings me to the next phase. Is there a fuel tank drain. There is a little of something that does not smell like gas in the tank. Where is the fuel filter?
 

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Okay further on. Those were the wires to the fuel gauge and are on the back burner now. Neutral wire is next subject. I can ground the wire with a jumper (I am not use to ground in circuits) and get a neutral light. Same for the Reverse light. Better yet I have pushed The ATV back and forth and feel that it is in neutral (it rolls freely). But cannot get a neutral light by plugging in or using a jumper. Not positive about a good plug in. About ready to cut off rubber and repair with heat shrink. Have pushed down on the shifter to try and get a real neutral. Is it positively in neutral if i can push it forward and backward? With the wire grounded, with a jumper the starter cranks and there is at least some compression. Which brings me to the next phase. Is there a fuel tank drain. There is a little of something that does not smell like gas in the tank. Where is the fuel filter?
when you ground neutral wire, and get light ?, then the switch is bad. fuel tank ( if oem ? ) drain is on the very bottom of tank. if it is a plastic tank ?, some do, some do not have a drain bolt on the bottom of tank.
 

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Drained the fuel tank. Cannot get the smell off of my hands. Wife would not let me use our surgeon glove inventory because of Covid 19. Lots of rust in the tank but I guess that is what fuel filters are for. 1 problem is the gas cap does not lock. Have to wonder why they did not use a simple screw on cap. The knob when turned will not push the lobes out. does not seem to have a way to take apart. Have you run into this before? I take it that I have to remove the rear rack and plastic to change the fuel filter.
 

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Here’s a pic of an 86-87 A model tank setup which is very similar to the 87 D with the exception that the D has a fuel level sending unit in the tank.
that said, both tanks have suction lines with basket screens and a drain bolt.

Yes drain the tank using that bolt. Rust is a problem in these tanks but they can be easily cleaned. Especially the suction lines which also accumulate sediments—use a long pipe cleaner—if clogged, use the cutoff end of a cable.

heres a cleaning thread—darn couldn’t find it—look for TRX350 borescope

and a pic of the fuel flow config

150070
150071
 

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You are making me jealous with your pictures. Mine looks a lot worse. Drained the oil today. First thing out the drain was water. Pulled the spark plug. It was hand tight. Spark plug is an Autolite 4163 and actually looked ok. I like NGK so will replace later. My previous question about the gas cap. have you run into that before where you cannot lock it?
 

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Yeah try spraying it down really good with Deep Creep. Sometimes you can get it to start working again; Be hopeful
Replacement caps can be found but that little knob and screw is real valuable don’t break it by working it too hard.
I had a good cap with a bad knob luckily i got a bad cap And robbed the piece I needed
 

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So far no luck on the gas cap. Seems like you should be able to disassemble and clean. Ordered a Reverse and Neutral switch. Both were bad. Also fuel cut off relay was missing, ordered one. How do you clean the fuel tank?
 

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Happens occasionally—you’ll want to buy a used cap.
cleaning a D model tank—can you remove the gauge sending unit without breaking it? my vinegar cleaning technique might ruin the bulb on the [email protected] or other D model members might be able to advise you how to remove the fuel guage sending unit without breaking it. It’s that bulb that sometimes swells and won’t clear the port.

cleaning the tank on an A model is easy because it doesn’t have that gauge sending unit. I put a pound of BBs and 2 gallons of cleaning vinegar in mine. Sealed up the openings, wrapped in bubble wrap and cardboard—put it in my cement mixer

 

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Here’s another tip.
There are two suction lines in the tank that terminate in basket screens—almost a foot long. Those lines can get clogged with sediment and rust.
My reserve line was packed so hard I couldn’t get a pipe cleaner through it. So i used an old throttle cable, cut it off and used it as a directional drill to bore through the clog. Careful! Too long and you’ll get that cable tangled up in the basket screens and hang it up—damaging the screens
 

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Can you blow out the lines with compressed air? Also can you just depend on the filter. My Father had an RV that sat for 6 years when his health failed. I changed fuel filter 3 times before I got it dependable again.
 

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Compressed air won’t hurt—you’d know right away if they were clear—might not clear a clog. If you could get some long pipe cleaners from a craft store too

oh yeah these filters are pricey!
150082
 

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I had a 88 Nissan Frontier that I put 250000 miles on. Sold it in 2007 and I still see it around town occasionally. My wife had a 2003 Honda Odyssey that we sold with 200000 miles and did close to nothing in repairs. Why can they not make an ATV with a simple gas cap and tank?
 

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I had a 88 Nissan Frontier that I put 250000 miles on. Sold it in 2007 and I still see it around town occasionally. My wife had a 2003 Honda Odyssey that we sold with 200000 miles and did close to nothing in repairs. Why can they not make an ATV with a simple gas cap and tank?
they do make a simple gas tank and cap, its plastic, and very pricey !, about 300 bucks last time i bought one.
 

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Gas cap is really frustrating. It moves very freely a little but not enough for the cogs (locks??) to come out and lock it in position. Have sprayed with penetrating oil several times. I came across a thread that insisted in not trying to take it apart. Have to admit I have manipulated. Using this number 17620-HA7-671 I find none on the market. Can you use another part number?
I am planning on acid cleaning the fuel tank. Muratic acid or Hydrocholoric acid. Do these hurt the fuel level float? Do you know it you can do it in place or do you have to remove it?
 
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