Gas out the overflow usually means float or float needle issues. What kit was used for the rebuild?
1987 Honda TRX350D
Hi all,
First post. Just got a 87 TRX350D for free from a guy who was gonna junk it. It hasn't been run for a couple years so wasn't disappointed when it didn't start, no spark. Took the CDI out and threw it in the freezer over night and reinstalled the next day. It started. WOOHOO! I let it run for about 15 min. At first it blew a little smoke but that stopped after a couple min and purred away. As it was running I looked it over and saw it was leaking oil between the head and the cover. Shut it off, then it wouldn't restart. No spark. CDI bad. Ordered a new one. While waiting for parts, took head cover off and no seal. Chain was tight. Checked valve lash before taking cover off and they were all in spec. Put the cover back on and rechecked lash, all good. Installed new CDI and it started right up, but is blowing smoke like crazy. What did I do wrong? It wasn't blowing smoke anywhere near what it's doing now.
First post. Just got a 87 TRX350D for free from a guy who was gonna junk it. It hasn't been run for a couple years so wasn't disappointed when it didn't start, no spark. Took the CDI out and threw it in the freezer over night and reinstalled the next day. It started. WOOHOO! I let it run for about 15 min. At first it blew a little smoke but that stopped after a couple min and purred away. As it was running I looked it over and saw it was leaking oil between the head and the cover. Shut it off, then it wouldn't restart. No spark. CDI bad. Ordered a new one. While waiting for parts, took head cover off and no seal. Chain was tight. Checked valve lash before taking cover off and they were all in spec. Put the cover back on and rechecked lash, all good. Installed new CDI and it started right up, but is blowing smoke like crazy. What did I do wrong? It wasn't blowing smoke anywhere near what it's doing now.
21 - 40 of 157 Posts
Yep, carb problems. Go thru the carb again. Check the oil again for fuel contamination. Change it if there is any doubt at all.......any doubt. Flush and reuse the oil filter. Thanks for following up. We were curious to know how it turned out.Gas out the overflow usually means float or float needle issues. What kit was used for the rebuild?
Used a Bronco carb kit from "World of power sports"
Never heard of them, but I know what the consensus will be here...use an OEM or Shindy kit to rebuild. I have an ultrasonic cleaner specifically for parts cleaning and simple green mix works wonders on carbs. Unless your throttle rod is rusted and seized. Ask me how I know...Used a Bronco carb kit from "World of power sports"
Ya. I ordered the kit before I did any research so I will order the shindy kit. Amazon has them for 18 bucks. I to have an ultrasonic and carb was cleaned in that. I did not polish the float valve seat as has been mentioned in other posts so I will do that also before throwing carb in ultrasonic.
Hi All,
Been a while, was busy at work. I took the carb apart again and it was dirty as ****. There was crap all over the jets and a chunk of something on the float seat. The guy I had rebuild it will be shot! LOL. Put the shindy kit in it after I cleaned the body and it fired right up! WOOHOO! It blows NO SMOKE and purrs like a kitten after I adjusted the carb. Gonna start putting it back together.
Been a while, was busy at work. I took the carb apart again and it was dirty as ****. There was crap all over the jets and a chunk of something on the float seat. The guy I had rebuild it will be shot! LOL. Put the shindy kit in it after I cleaned the body and it fired right up! WOOHOO! It blows NO SMOKE and purrs like a kitten after I adjusted the carb. Gonna start putting it back together.
gas dripping from the overflow is most likely the carb overflowing , maybe from trash coming from the tank that is recontaminating your carb ---the smoke could be from oil that was in the muffler and needs to burn off , or maybe the rings have not set yet , give that some run time and it might clean up ---- if it were me , when I got it running 1/2 ass good , I would sell it off and get a better model atv , the 350 D and A are not a good riding atvs , the steering sucks , parts are hard to find , and finding someone for help who really knows that bike inside and out just got a lot harder with the crash of this forum
Do you have a Forum to English dictionary? What is the CDI?
Lol it’s the ignition controllerDo you have a Forum to English dictionary? What is the CDI?
Download the service manual and parts links in my signature block below
Look for TRX350 Foreman
Do you have a Forum to English dictionary? What is the CDI?
Try adding to this one. I have parts and just started electrical troubleshooting on my Honda TRX350D. This has sat outside for years and a lot of plastic and wire insulation is brittle. Looking at wiring diagrams mine has 6 fuses and the drawings shows 5. Is one a spare? After installing a new battery the only light that came on when I turned to key was the Oil Temp light for about 5 seconds. Tried the start button but it did nothing. Stop switch is busted with the 2 wires hanging loose. Black white is at 12 volts. Wiring diagram does not show logic. Is the Stop Switch Normally closed and the switch breaks the circuit? I can make a stop switch. Jumped the starter at the starter solenoid momentarily and the starter does turn over. Checked the wires to the neutral switch and they were disconnected and in bad shape. insulated with tape and plugged in. It is in neutral. Turned on key and oil temp light came on for a flash and then out. I am assuming that I blew a fuse. Do you have to have the neutral switch operational? It doe go to the CDI unit and starter relay. Any other quick electrical tests that you recommend. Will do more troubleshooting this afternoon.
You can first download the service manual and parts links in my signature block below.
One of those fuzes might be a spare I think there are clips for spares on either side of the fuze block; see mine is an 86, has four fuses and two spares.
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The oil temp light should come on momentarily and then go out. The neutral light has to be on steady or it won’t crank. Check the gear switch harness connections behind the right side cover and especially behind the cover behind the foot brake. My harness connections were bare and broken.
you can get a used handlebar switch and harnesses but they have to be from a Foreman, not the base model Fourtrax.the schematic does show the logic for each switch in the margins. Fourtrax kill switch is normally open and grounded when set to off; Foreman is opposite
One of those fuzes might be a spare I think there are clips for spares on either side of the fuze block; see mine is an 86, has four fuses and two spares.
The oil temp light should come on momentarily and then go out. The neutral light has to be on steady or it won’t crank. Check the gear switch harness connections behind the right side cover and especially behind the cover behind the foot brake. My harness connections were bare and broken.
you can get a used handlebar switch and harnesses but they have to be from a Foreman, not the base model Fourtrax.the schematic does show the logic for each switch in the margins. Fourtrax kill switch is normally open and grounded when set to off; Foreman is opposite
This is a quick one. What is the shift pattern on the 87 TRX350D Foreman?I thought I saw it in the service manual but cannot find it now. Is there an owners manual available?
I have only been getting about an hour a day to investigate this beast. Discovered today that it is a Foreman not a Fourtrax. Guy I got it from kept calling it a Fourtrax. Now I am on the right wiring diagram. Cannot get neutral switch to work. Testing for continuity to ground and switching gears, never get continuity. But now when I plug in the wires to the neutral/reverse switches and turn on the key, the oil temp light stays on and the fan turns on. Which brings up the question, where is the fan control unit? Also the CDI? I was going to check the bulbs for the neutral switch. Can you remove the front cover? are do you have to do it from the back? Plastic is brittle and worried about breaking stuff.
all up, not counting reverse. SL, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th. from neutral , reverse is down.This is a quick one. What is the shift pattern on the 87 TRX350D Foreman?I thought I saw it in the service manual but cannot find it now. Is there an owners manual available?
lets start with the run down: right lower side, behind metal cover, 3 switches are there, from far back, neutral switch, then reverse switch, then all the way forward is the oil temp sensor switch. neutral is ALWAYS hot when key is on. oil light should come on, then go back off after a couple sec's. neutral light always lights up when in neutral, and key on. fan control is on top of left forward frame. c.d.i. is on top right forward frame rail.I have only been getting about an hour a day to investigate this beast. Discovered today that it is a Foreman not a Fourtrax. Guy I got it from kept calling it a Fourtrax. Now I am on the right wiring diagram. Cannot get neutral switch to work. Testing for continuity to ground and switching gears, never get continuity. But now when I plug in the wires to the neutral/reverse switches and turn on the key, the oil temp light stays on and the fan turns on. Which brings up the question, where is the fan control unit? Also the CDI? I was going to check the bulbs for the neutral switch. Can you remove the front cover? are do you have to do it from the back? Plastic is brittle and worried about breaking stuff.
Looks to me like I need to remove the front rack and plastics to access. Any way this will help me look everything over and test easier. 6 bolts for the rack. Is it only 4 for the plastic front end?
Yes, I need to disassemble. I was looking underneath today. Probably 50% of wires are unplugged. Oil temp light is not consistent. Turn on ignition today and it worked just fine. Came on and then went out after 3 seconds. Garage is warming up. Will start soon.
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