with it being an '87 ?, chances are..time for new rings, or new top end ?. prob why it was put away for so long.
all up, not counting reverse. SL, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th. from neutral , reverse is down.This is a quick one. What is the shift pattern on the 87 TRX350D Foreman?I thought I saw it in the service manual but cannot find it now. Is there an owners manual available?
lets start with the run down: right lower side, behind metal cover, 3 switches are there, from far back, neutral switch, then reverse switch, then all the way forward is the oil temp sensor switch. neutral is ALWAYS hot when key is on. oil light should come on, then go back off after a couple sec's. neutral light always lights up when in neutral, and key on. fan control is on top of left forward frame. c.d.i. is on top right forward frame rail.I have only been getting about an hour a day to investigate this beast. Discovered today that it is a Foreman not a Fourtrax. Guy I got it from kept calling it a Fourtrax. Now I am on the right wiring diagram. Cannot get neutral switch to work. Testing for continuity to ground and switching gears, never get continuity. But now when I plug in the wires to the neutral/reverse switches and turn on the key, the oil temp light stays on and the fan turns on. Which brings up the question, where is the fan control unit? Also the CDI? I was going to check the bulbs for the neutral switch. Can you remove the front cover? are do you have to do it from the back? Plastic is brittle and worried about breaking stuff.
before you go telling him he needs another harness ?, you and him need to find out what those connectors go to ?, cuz they dont go to the c.d.i. !.Oh no. You’re gonna want another main harness. I bought one last year for $65–here’s a pic after I completely rewrapped it View attachment 150001
you’ll have to make sure it’s for an 87 Foreman
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after going back through my '88 trx350 build, those connectors hanging there ?, those go to the fuel gauge ( fuel meter ) on right inner fender, they wont stop the atv from running if you dont have it hooked up. what ever your problem is ?, its not this that you posted !.I figured out today why not much works. This is an as found picture of the CDI wiring. View attachment 149998
yeah...those connectors go to the fuel meter/gauge lOk i see having looked closer at the ebay harness—had the same connectors View attachment 150007
when you ground neutral wire, and get light ?, then the switch is bad. fuel tank ( if oem ? ) drain is on the very bottom of tank. if it is a plastic tank ?, some do, some do not have a drain bolt on the bottom of tank.Okay further on. Those were the wires to the fuel gauge and are on the back burner now. Neutral wire is next subject. I can ground the wire with a jumper (I am not use to ground in circuits) and get a neutral light. Same for the Reverse light. Better yet I have pushed The ATV back and forth and feel that it is in neutral (it rolls freely). But cannot get a neutral light by plugging in or using a jumper. Not positive about a good plug in. About ready to cut off rubber and repair with heat shrink. Have pushed down on the shifter to try and get a real neutral. Is it positively in neutral if i can push it forward and backward? With the wire grounded, with a jumper the starter cranks and there is at least some compression. Which brings me to the next phase. Is there a fuel tank drain. There is a little of something that does not smell like gas in the tank. Where is the fuel filter?
they do make a simple gas tank and cap, its plastic, and very pricey !, about 300 bucks last time i bought one.I had a 88 Nissan Frontier that I put 250000 miles on. Sold it in 2007 and I still see it around town occasionally. My wife had a 2003 Honda Odyssey that we sold with 200000 miles and did close to nothing in repairs. Why can they not make an ATV with a simple gas cap and tank?
in case you may or may not know ?, you can't get the cogs to spring out, UNLESS YOUR PUSHING DOWN IN , AND AROUND THE CENTER OF THE CAP !.Gas cap is really frustrating. It moves very freely a little but not enough for the cogs (locks??) to come out and lock it in position. Have sprayed with penetrating oil several times. I came across a thread that insisted in not trying to take it apart. Have to admit I have manipulated. Using this number 17620-HA7-671 I find none on the market. Can you use another part number?
and trying to turn knob all at the same time to get levers out ??.Tried that.
g&h atv sells them, you can find them on ebay----> IMS Plastic Fuel Gas Tank for 1986-1989 Honda Atv TRX 350D 350 Fourtrax Foreman | eBay , this is what i put on my '89, works great.Could not suck it out with a hand pump. finally pressurized the tank through the gas cap vent. Some powdered rust came out before clogging. Will try more. Do you have a plastic tank recommendation?
you can go to harbor freight, purchase a metric and standard o-ring kit, they are cheap, have all sizes, thats what i did.Do you know the metric size number for the petcock orings? Fuel guage is 56 x 2.6 mm.
yes you need to suck some fuel to/through the pump...do not run it dry !!!.Do you have to prime the fuel pump in a dry system. Tried to pump gas from the tank and routed a line from the pump back to the tank. Pump makes sligt chattering noise like it is trying. But does it give enough suction to pump from the bottom of the tank? Have about 2 gallons in the tank.
suck on the fuel line leading from pump to carb, you should be able to draw fuel through the pump.Do you suck on a hose. I tried priming from both sides and still does not work.
that baffle just rest on top of the jet holder, it has a slot, the slot slides down over the ridge made into the side of the jet holder tube.Started on the carb today. Could not get the choke disconnected so working it on top of the frame on a board. Screws very difficult to get out of the bowl. Had to use an impact driver. The carb was full of water, just like the crankcase and fuel tank. Last place this ATV must have been was a river. The "baffle" seems very loose. Is this normal? It seems to have a slot that it fits on. But nothing seems to hold it in place. Other wise cleaning the bowl and will reinstall. Will try to get new screws.
and just where did you buy this c.d.i. ?. asking because the '87 is a one year only c.d.i. !. you can not use any other oem c.d.i.'s for this model !. and IF ?. you did buy the correct year for the c.d.i., where did you purchase it from ?.New CDI and new ignition coil. Every test done per the manual. All pass. No spark. Can you suggest any other tests. should I put a timing light in the circuit (have to dig deep to find it).
the neutral switch is pushed in from inside the right side cover by the cup that is bolted to the end of the shift drum.Ok that sounds promising. The OEM CDI are Shindengen and are probably marked HA7; those numbers may not mean anything—if they do I’m not aware of it.
@shadetree may know if there’s a transmission device that depresses that neutral switch.
I don’t think you will get voltage from the pulse generator unless the engine (stator output) is rotating. You say pulse generator resistance is good. Have you tested the stator resistances yet? You can easily test for stator output by testing at the battery through the reg/rec. but engine has to be running to get a good reading I’m not sure if you’ll see a transient reading if you kick it.
Simple analog meters can be good for these checks.
nothing to indicate that you have the correct CDI though.
you need to pull the light switch apart, and inspect the kill switch. have you tested the fan control unit ?, replaced the fan control unit ?. if its bad ?, you will never get the spark plug to fire.All 3 legs of the stator measure 0.9 ohms and not continuity to ground. Stator passes.