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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1987 Honda TRX350D Foreman I think (it has the digital fuel gauge).
Purchased rough shape with NO SPARK, NO Ign. Coil. Want to get running for my boys since cant afford a new one. I have seen many posts but no one Follows up and tell us if the actually did find the problem.
I am looking for someone whom I can email with to help me thru it I can take pictures as needed to help. Thanks in Advance…

Since then I have both owner and Service Manuals, purchased a new coil, boot, plug.
Checked all elec. Switched on handlebar and work, as they should. She will crank over using the elec. Start and fuel pump works fine. JUST NO SPARK…
I have gone thru the service manual tests a few times now- double checking myself and all components come up in spec. What am I missing?
I have tried tapping the CDI and trying to see a spark.
I am not 100% confident on the CDI but I read so many have bought new and it did not fix it- so that is why I think I am missing something.
I have gone over wire harness and cleaned up some questionable areas, only found (2) grounds and they were clean and tight.
I have a Honda trx200 that is similar that runs great so it may help in the diagnoses.
I checked the 200 and get over 60volts at blk wire to coil while cranking and on the 350 only have 9-12V. I am just stumped, but very patient and will get it I hope.

Sorry for long post- Please if your knowledgeable on these bike can you help us.
Thanks again for any input – I do not want to sell it non running – I want to put her back together for my kids.
Chris
 

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I can't help but someone will be along to give you some advise. The only thing I can recall from my 86 fourtrax is behind the 'shark fin' grill on the left side is a black box...might be the coil, not sure...but just make sure everything is plugged in and secure on that, if it even exists on your machine.

Also, use the forum and not email, because that way it may help others who search for the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok thanks-
I will follow up on here for others- I just found it frustrating that so many had this problem and there were so few fixes that were posted.
Chris
 

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I hear you, it's frustrating to me too when people will get advise and then come back and post once and say "I fixed it, thanks!" and then never tell us how they fixed it. :mad:
 

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1987 Honda TRX350D Foreman I think (it has the digital fuel gauge).
Purchased rough shape with NO SPARK, NO Ign. Coil. Want to get running for my boys since cant afford a new one. I have seen many posts but no one Follows up and tell us if the actually did find the problem.
I am looking for someone whom I can email with to help me thru it I can take pictures as needed to help. Thanks in Advance…

Since then I have both owner and Service Manuals, purchased a new coil, boot, plug.
Checked all elec. Switched on handlebar and work, as they should. She will crank over using the elec. Start and fuel pump works fine. JUST NO SPARK…
I have gone thru the service manual tests a few times now- double checking myself and all components come up in spec. What am I missing?
I have tried tapping the CDI and trying to see a spark.
I am not 100% confident on the CDI but I read so many have bought new and it did not fix it- so that is why I think I am missing something.
I have gone over wire harness and cleaned up some questionable areas, only found (2) grounds and they were clean and tight.
I have a Honda trx200 that is similar that runs great so it may help in the diagnoses.
I checked the 200 and get over 60volts at blk wire to coil while cranking and on the 350 only have 9-12V. I am just stumped, but very patient and will get it I hope.

Sorry for long post- Please if your knowledgeable on these bike can you help us.
Thanks again for any input – I do not want to sell it non running – I want to put her back together for my kids.
Chris
you came to the right place..as i have restored a '89 trx350d foreman not long ago..which you see in my pic...if you have checked the stator..checked the pulse generator..( ppl also call these pick up coils )..checked the battery..checked the spark plug coil..then your problem is the c.d.i..nothing else on this bike makes it fire...see if you can either find someone that has the same year and make as yours..or purchase a c.d.i..they are about 100 or so bucks..ONLY DO THIS IF YOU HAVE RULLED OUT THE OTHER PARTS LIKE I STATED.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The one thing I have not done is taken off the left engine cover to see the stator. I assume since the pulse coil was good in OHMS that is was good- but I could have something in there I am missing.
I think I will drain the oil and pull the cover and inspect it.

The battery is fully charged and I pulled another coil to compare and both are working fine- so I have ruled out the ign. coil and boot for sure.

thanks
Will let you know what I see.
 

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Someone is parting out an 86 and has it posted here, but not sure the CDI is the same. Much of the 86 is not compatable with 87-89, but the CDI might be, not sure.
 

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Someone is parting out an 86 and has it posted here, but not sure the CDI is the same. Much of the 86 is not compatable with 87-89, but the CDI might be, not sure.
nope..they are not..been there..done that..lol
 

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The one thing I have not done is taken off the left engine cover to see the stator. I assume since the pulse coil was good in OHMS that is was good- but I could have something in there I am missing.
I think I will drain the oil and pull the cover and inspect it.

The battery is fully charged and I pulled another coil to compare and both are working fine- so I have ruled out the ign. coil and boot for sure.

thanks
Will let you know what I see.
you don't have to remove the stator cover to inspect it..if you got the service manual..you can unplug the leads..and ohm it out ..match the reading's to the specs..but..if you really just want to explore..it wont hurt to look..it probally needs an oil change anyway..lol...when you do the oil change..by nooooooo means..install your oil filter in backwards..or you are gonna have a bad day..lol...just becareful and not to tear the gasket up..or you will need a new one.
 

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WOW- great advice I will be sure I do it right.

Thanks
your welcome..if you need any advice on this atv..hit me up..as i have striped mine down to the bare frame..and brought her back to life..even though mine is a 89..they still are about the same bike..mine is the last year they made them..and i've owned 2 of these bikes..they are like tanks !..check out my pic's on my rebuilding stage..if you can find them ??..kinda shows you what i started with..and finished with..lol.
 

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Welcome to the forums. Looks like Shadetree has you headed in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SO I think I have it narrowed down to nothing coming from Pulse to CDI.
But I would think that some sort of volatge should send signal to CDI? I did check the Pulse Coil using OHM's like service manual and it tested 327ohms (in spec). But I am thinking that it only checks the wire using this method - does not tell me it is working properly? AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK????

SO I took off Left engine cover last nite and found all clean parts NO RUST..
But the plug for the Pulse coil was wore off down to the metal on the plug in clip- what I mean is the rubber cover on the clip that plugs into the coil was rubbed off very rough - like somting was rubbing on it- So does this mean that it grouned out and just need to re insulate the clip. I will look closer but trying to find what it was rubbing on no visible signs right off the bat.

THOUGHTS???
 

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SO I think I have it narrowed down to nothing coming from Pulse to CDI.
But I would think that some sort of volatge should send signal to CDI? I did check the Pulse Coil using OHM's like service manual and it tested 327ohms (in spec). But I am thinking that it only checks the wire using this method - does not tell me it is working properly? AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK????
Without looking at the schematic I can only guess, which is what I will do. :) The 327 ohms is testing the coil, not just the wiring, so I'm going to say it will work properly.
 

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SO I think I have it narrowed down to nothing coming from Pulse to CDI.
But I would think that some sort of volatge should send signal to CDI? I did check the Pulse Coil using OHM's like service manual and it tested 327ohms (in spec). But I am thinking that it only checks the wire using this method - does not tell me it is working properly? AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK????

SO I took off Left engine cover last nite and found all clean parts NO RUST..
But the plug for the Pulse coil was wore off down to the metal on the plug in clip- what I mean is the rubber cover on the clip that plugs into the coil was rubbed off very rough - like somting was rubbing on it- So does this mean that it grouned out and just need to re insulate the clip. I will look closer but trying to find what it was rubbing on no visible signs right off the bat.

THOUGHTS???
if anything was rubbing it..it would be the flywheel..nothing else even comes close to it..i don't remember if you checked it..but..did you check the stator ?..the stator has a firing side..and charging side..the firing side is what sends the signal to the c.d.i..then from there..it goes to the spark plug coil..then to the spark plug....check the stator..and you may have a bad pulse generator..( this is commonly known as the pick up coil ). ..the main things that keep your bike from firing..c.d.i..pulse generator...spark plug coil..oh..and it helps to make sure your getting power through your kill switch..( you would be amazed as to how many ppl leave the kill switch off..and still can't figure out why it won't fire ! )..lol..oh.one more thing..you may..or may not have checked this..but..did you by any chance inspect your flywheel ??..see if you may have sheared the woodruf key..and the flywheel moved ?..i've seen it happen !..anyway..check everything..double check it again..we all over look the easiest cause..been there..done that...lol..i've worked on a honda 300..and some idiot cut the coil wire comming from the c.d.i to the spark plug coil..start with the kill switch..then pick up coil ( at the flywheel )..check the stator..check the coil..all wires leading from the pick up coil..to the c.d.i..then to spark plug coil..if any of these isn't right..you will never get fire..and double check all your ground connections...p.s. would like to add..thier is a diode somewhere in the wiring harness..this will keep you from not getting fire.
 

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SO I think I have it narrowed down to nothing coming from Pulse to CDI.
But I would think that some sort of volatge should send signal to CDI? I did check the Pulse Coil using OHM's like service manual and it tested 327ohms (in spec). But I am thinking that it only checks the wire using this method - does not tell me it is working properly? AM I ON THE RIGHT TRACK????
Without looking at the schematic I can only guess, which is what I will do. :) The 327 ohms is testing the coil, not just the wiring, so I'm going to say it will work properly.
Yes, Pain is correct. If it checked in spec, it's good. All the pulse generator is, is a hall effect sensor (coil of wire).
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have checked the pulse wire and there are no breaks. I covered the bare wire and put it back on temperarily to see if it would work.. NOTHING- Still no spark. I could not see anywhere that it was hitting anything to cause the insulation to rub off like that. and there is a gasket on the case.
I am starting to have mixed feelings if I am ever going to get this- I do not want to give up- or should I say I WON'T...

I will look at the 3 wires from the stator and check them for a break-I have used my ohm meter to check start wires. kill wires all are working fine- YOU mentioned DIODE? I guess I will look for one on the wiring diagram.

The flywheel seems tight and moves as it should - it is very clean in there looks like the oil was always changed - NO RUST at all..

The pulse coil reads in spec 327ohms. I just dont understand what type of reading I am looking for from the pulse to the cdi Volts? Ohms?

I have taken off the 2 ground connections that I could find and cleaned them up good.


I did however compare some wiring with our 200sx that has elec. start also- I see that the blk/wht wire on my 350 has 12v coming from it to CDI with key on. I tested and documented all the terminals from the 200 and none have 12v going to CDI- they only give a range of .8 -.3V.
The one thing I have noticed that of the 3 wires in the CDI jack on the 350 have been messed with and I am not 100% sure they are in the right locations. There is a 4 pin jack and only using 3 of them.

Can someone tell me the pin location and color of the wire at those pins.
Looking for gr/wht, blk/yl, and bl/yl. wires.
I just hope when they were fixing the ternimal ends they put them back in the right spot.

I have noticed that the only pin not used on the 350 does have 12v at the cdi- but it is not used- on the 200SX it is a beige wire and it is used.

SHADETREE , HELMUT you guys are very,very kind and helpful and thanks for sticking with me.
Seriously- I will not give up...
I have enve been lookng for the same machine cheap that runs that I could buy and to a 100%comparision on all the parts to find the bad item on mine- but noe in my area that I can afford.

Advice anyone..
Thanks
 

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I have checked the pulse wire and there are no breaks. I covered the bare wire and put it back on temperarily to see if it would work.. NOTHING- Still no spark. I could not see anywhere that it was hitting anything to cause the insulation to rub off like that. and there is a gasket on the case.
I am starting to have mixed feelings if I am ever going to get this- I do not want to give up- or should I say I WON'T...

I will look at the 3 wires from the stator and check them for a break-I have used my ohm meter to check start wires. kill wires all are working fine- YOU mentioned DIODE? I guess I will look for one on the wiring diagram.

The flywheel seems tight and moves as it should - it is very clean in there looks like the oil was always changed - NO RUST at all..

The pulse coil reads in spec 327ohms. I just dont understand what type of reading I am looking for from the pulse to the cdi Volts? Ohms?

I have taken off the 2 ground connections that I could find and cleaned them up good.


I did however compare some wiring with our 200sx that has elec. start also- I see that the blk/wht wire on my 350 has 12v coming from it to CDI with key on. I tested and documented all the terminals from the 200 and none have 12v going to CDI- they only give a range of .8 -.3V.
The one thing I have noticed that of the 3 wires in the CDI jack on the 350 have been messed with and I am not 100% sure they are in the right locations. There is a 4 pin jack and only using 3 of them.

Can someone tell me the pin location and color of the wire at those pins.
Looking for gr/wht, blk/yl, and bl/yl. wires.
I just hope when they were fixing the ternimal ends they put them back in the right spot.

I have noticed that the only pin not used on the 350 does have 12v at the cdi- but it is not used- on the 200SX it is a beige wire and it is used.

SHADETREE , HELMUT you guys are very,very kind and helpful and thanks for sticking with me.
Seriously- I will not give up...
I have enve been lookng for the same machine cheap that runs that I could buy and to a 100%comparision on all the parts to find the bad item on mine- but noe in my area that I can afford.

Advice anyone..
Thanks
your welcome..hang in there..let me find my service manual..and see if it covers your year..sit tight
 

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pm me easy your phone number
 

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I have checked the pulse wire and there are no breaks. I covered the bare wire and put it back on temperarily to see if it would work.. NOTHING- Still no spark. I could not see anywhere that it was hitting anything to cause the insulation to rub off like that. and there is a gasket on the case.
I am starting to have mixed feelings if I am ever going to get this- I do not want to give up- or should I say I WON'T...

I will look at the 3 wires from the stator and check them for a break-I have used my ohm meter to check start wires. kill wires all are working fine- YOU mentioned DIODE? I guess I will look for one on the wiring diagram.

The flywheel seems tight and moves as it should - it is very clean in there looks like the oil was always changed - NO RUST at all..

The pulse coil reads in spec 327ohms. I just dont understand what type of reading I am looking for from the pulse to the cdi Volts? Ohms?

I have taken off the 2 ground connections that I could find and cleaned them up good.


I did however compare some wiring with our 200sx that has elec. start also- I see that the blk/wht wire on my 350 has 12v coming from it to CDI with key on. I tested and documented all the terminals from the 200 and none have 12v going to CDI- they only give a range of .8 -.3V.
The one thing I have noticed that of the 3 wires in the CDI jack on the 350 have been messed with and I am not 100% sure they are in the right locations. There is a 4 pin jack and only using 3 of them.

Can someone tell me the pin location and color of the wire at those pins.
Looking for gr/wht, blk/yl, and bl/yl. wires.
I just hope when they were fixing the ternimal ends they put them back in the right spot.

I have noticed that the only pin not used on the 350 does have 12v at the cdi- but it is not used- on the 200SX it is a beige wire and it is used.

SHADETREE , HELMUT you guys are very,very kind and helpful and thanks for sticking with me.
Seriously- I will not give up...
I have enve been lookng for the same machine cheap that runs that I could buy and to a 100%comparision on all the parts to find the bad item on mine- but noe in my area that I can afford.

Advice anyone..
Thanks
the c.d.i has two plug's for it..one contains 3 wires..the other contains 4 wires..here is a wiring schematic of your bike..that is..if yours is the foreman ?..lol..notice that the 4 pin jack has 4 wires in it ?..the wire that is marked bl/y..it goes to your spark plug coil..if this is missing..or cut..you will never get spark....i would also like to throw this at you...this bike has a fan control unit on it...if it senses an over heat at anytime from the oil temp sensor..this control unit shut's power off to the main c.d.i..which in turn..cut's power to the motor..i know this seems odd to you..but..if this control unit is not working right..your c.d.i may never make the spark plug fire..sooo..keep this in mind..if all else checks out good like you said..replace the c.d.i..this is the only thing that will stop your bike from getting fire..oh..and make sure when you get another c.d.i..GET THE SAME YEAR..AS THEY WILL NOT WORK FROM ANOTHER YEAR ON THESE BIKES !...keep me posted . edit..well..the scans turned out to small to read..where's helmut when you need the pic man !..lmao
 

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