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Discussion Starter #21
Retro,
Ever since the last time I tapped the CDI it has started about 25 times and run perfectly.
Before that, while wiggling the connection to it, I thought it acted funny, lust for a second, like it might stall, but it quickly came around and seemed fine. I took the connections off, felt tight and it looked clean. So I put a little dialectic grease on each metal tab, snugged it back together tight and wrapped some electrical tape around it just make sure it could not back off or move any at all.
It was after all that, that it ran fine for a while and then simply would not start. So while trying to start it, I lightly tapped it and it started.
I just ordered an Honda OEM CDI box for $116 on Ebay. So we shall see!
Ya know, I got such a great deal on the wheeler that these new purchases are not so bad. It's not like I have a lot of cash, I don't, but it helps knowing I only had about $400 in cash invested in it before I started fixing it up. I'll be happier and have the peace of mind when it finally turns over and runs steady for a week or so. I'll probably need a new starter by then. LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #22
PS That handsome face on my avatar is my new grandson. He may just be playing a bigger part in my happiness than my deal on the wheeler. ;):grin
 

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Hey, congrats on the grandson! I wondered who that might be cause I have a beautiful grand daughter I'm pretty proud of too! Grand kids can sure bring out the happy in us...

I think you did a great job on your 350D too. You have one of the finest and at an affordable price to boot. Hope your grandson falls in love with it!
 

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Well, yes or no... IF! ...you have gone through all of the connections and grounds in the wiring harness and verified them to be clean and snug, all making good electrical contacts with one another. And IF both the kill switch and ignition switch are working good with no intermittent continuity (electrically clean) issues.... And IF you have checked the resistance of the pulse generator according to the service manual and found it to be within specs....

You'll need to replace the CDI with an OEM Honda CDI (or optionally, a genuine Ricks Electrical Service CDI, not from one of the chinese liars pretending to be selling Ricks CDIs).

The Fuel pump must be an OEM Honda part too, else you or your family may burn up in the chinese fire under your butt.

Good luck and have fun with it! I'm happy that you are keeping your old girl running rather than parting it out!

Edit:
One more thing I forgot to mention earlier.... Sometimes the old spark plug wire can deteriorate at the end of the wire where the spark plug boot attaches. Its a good idea on these old machines to twist that plug boot off from the wire and cut about 3/8" of wire off the end, if you can, then twist-attach the boot back onto it. Try doing that before buying a CDI just to be sure.
Is there any way to test a CDI? I did by a Chinese one for $30. Still no spark or fuel pump. All lights work and fuel gauge and hour meter
 

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I bought one of those Chinese cdi's. Is there any way to test even my old one? I have no spark or fuel pump. All lights and hour clock work and starter does also.
 

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I bought one of those Chinese cdi's. Is there any way to test even my old one? I have no spark or fuel pump. All lights and hour clock work and starter does also.
Are you getting a steady neutral light and a momentarily oil light when you switch on?

Put your old one in an oven, connector side up. Turn oven on to 180F no more than 200F; let it dry out for at least 3 hours. Turn off oven and let cool completely before reinstalling. Sometimes the CDI traps humidity which may cause electrical problems; drying it out may revive it. Let us know if this works for you.

also check and maybe reseat all your fuses
 

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Hello, yes I have a steady neutral light and momentary oil light. Have checked all fuses, but have not pulled the big 30 amp under the seat. I am assuming that that one controls every thing. I have put my old one in the oven twice to no avail. I have the owners manual and wiring diagram. I have not opened the fuel relay box yet. Is there anything in there that I should check? One screw is stripped, but I am sure I can drill it out if need be. My quad has 400 hours on the clock and I got it from a meticulous German friend who changed the oil every time he used it. It runs super when it starts. It just started getting harder to start, about a year ago. Got worse and worse until it finally quit. I was thinking it was fuel, but new fuel pump didn't help.
 

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Hello, yes I have a steady neutral light and momentary oil light. Have checked all fuses, but have not pulled the big 30 amp under the seat. I am assuming that that one controls every thing. I have put my old one in the oven twice to no avail. I have the owners manual and wiring diagram. I have not opened the fuel relay box yet. Is there anything in there that I should check? One screw is stripped, but I am sure I can drill it out if need be. My quad has 400 hours on the clock and I got it from a meticulous German friend who changed the oil every time he used it. It runs super when it starts. It just started getting harder to start, about a year ago. Got worse and worse until it finally quit. I was thinking it was fuel, but new fuel pump didn't help.
first mistake: taking the cheap way out, and buying a china c.d.i. !. buy a oem c.d.i. be done with it, taking the cheap way out is never a good idea. second: unplug the fuel pump from harness, hook 12 volt dc to it from a good known battery, DO NOT RUN IT WITHOUT FUEL HOOKED TO IT !, or you will burn it out in sec's !. if your pump works this way ?, then chances are your fuel pump relay is bad ?. been sitting for a bit ?, clean or rebuild the carb with a shindy carb rebuild kit, DO NOT USE ANY STUPID CHINA CARB KITS !!. the fuel cut-off relay is in the metal box, above right rear tire. you can get a pair of vise grips on the screws to remove them. the fuel cut-off relay is still sold by honda. if your pump is bad ?, buy a oem pump from honda, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY ON SOME STUPID PUMP FROM EBAY THAT SELLS FOR AROUND 20 BUCKS ?, IT'S A CHINA KNOCK-OFF !!!. word from the wise: if your too cheap to spend money on your atv to fix it, AND FIX IT RIGHT ?, then you should not bother with it, all your doing is wasting time and hard earned money !.
 

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Is there any way to test a CDI? I did by a Chinese one for $30. Still no spark or fuel pump. All lights work and fuel gauge and hour meter
other than testing it on a known running atv thats same in year/make/model ?, NO !.
 

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It could be several things gotta get OEM parts only!!!)
Bad CDI (firing upon initial crank with ether tells me your prob is likely electrical) three different CDI part numbers for this model
You did not specify which model or year you have

Other Mechanical factors
Choke valve (SE) worn
Carb dirty and or gaskets worn (is it a QA03A? Don’t lose that carb!!!)
Dirty fuel tank or crud in the tank suction lines (internal to tank)
Clogged Petcock
Clogged fuel filter
 

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first mistake: taking the cheap way out, and buying a china c.d.i. !. buy a oem c.d.i. be done with it, taking the cheap way out is never a good idea. second: unplug the fuel pump from harness, hook 12 volt dc to it from a good known battery, DO NOT RUN IT WITHOUT FUEL HOOKED TO IT !, or you will burn it out in sec's !. if your pump works this way ?, then chances are your fuel pump relay is bad ?. been sitting for a bit ?, clean or rebuild the carb with a shindy carb rebuild kit, DO NOT USE ANY STUPID CHINA CARB KITS !!. the fuel cut-off relay is in the metal box, above right rear tire. you can get a pair of vise grips on the screws to remove them. the fuel cut-off relay is still sold by honda. if your pump is bad ?, buy a oem pump from honda, DO NOT WASTE YOUR TIME AND MONEY ON SOME STUPID PUMP FROM EBAY THAT SELLS FOR AROUND 20 BUCKS ?, IT'S A CHINA KNOCK-OFF !!!. word from the wise: if your too cheap to spend money on your atv to fix it, AND FIX IT RIGHT ?, then you should not bother with it, all your doing is wasting time and hard earned money !.
Gotcha. Thanks!! '87 TRX 350D Fourtrax Foreman Foreman. I have tested the fuel pump with a battery, and yes it works. I have chased down entire fuel system. Not clogged. I guess next step is OEM CDI and check fuel relay. Thank You!!
 

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Gotcha. Thanks!! '87 TRX 350D Fourtrax Foreman Foreman. I have tested the fuel pump with a battery, and yes it works. I have chased down entire fuel system. Not clogged. I guess next step is OEM CDI and check fuel relay. Thank You!!
Where or which site do recommend to buy the OEM CDI from?
 

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Gotcha. Thanks!! '87 TRX 350D Fourtrax Foreman Foreman. I have tested the fuel pump with a battery, and yes it works. I have chased down entire fuel system. Not clogged. I guess next step is OEM CDI and check fuel relay. Thank You!!
Hello, it's been a couple months since my last message. Winter, and not thinking much about my quad. Anyway, I took your advise a bought an OEM CDI through Babbitts online. Seemed like a good Co. Put it in, and still nothing .No fuel pump or spark. They are going to exchange for another just to try. Seems like it's a pretty specific part. We checked VIN and all. Unit is just the same, but at the very bottom are some numbers that are different. The parts store said that they don;t matter.part#is30410-HA7-751 and on the little mouth thing where you plug it in to, they read HA7 under that is CI537 All these match. But on the very bottom are the little numbers Old one says 6.6 201 New one says 9.7 111. I'm stumped. Can't even find anyone to work on it. Too Old, but runs like new when running. only 300 hours on clock. Thanks ,Ron
 

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Not sure if my reply was in the right place about the OEM cdi. If you don't see it please let me know. Thanks Ron Fillmore
 

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seems you have the correct cdi. i would check/test all your fuses, test the stator, as well as the reg/rec. check the '' kill '' switch, check the ignition switch for being good and correct ?.
 

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It could be several things gotta get OEM parts only!!!)
Bad CDI (firing upon initial crank with ether tells me your prob is likely electrical) three different CDI part numbers for this model
You did not specify which model or year you have

Other Mechanical factors
Choke valve (SE) worn
Carb dirty and or gaskets worn (is it a QA03A? Don’t lose that carb!!!)
Dirty fuel tank or crud in the tank suction lines (internal to tank)
Clogged Petcock
Clogged fuel filter
I see you did not answer some of my questions.
Do you have the service manual?
There is a troubleshooting flowchart which will help isolate pulse generator and stator—also fuel relay and kill switch. Pretty easy at least for me
You can’t just put 12v on the fuel pump and isolate the system in that manner tho.
service manual and parts links in my signature block below
 

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I see you did not answer some of my questions.
Do you have the service manual?
There is a troubleshooting flowchart which will help isolate pulse generator and stator—also fuel relay and kill switch. Pretty easy at least for me
You can’t just put 12v on the fuel pump and isolate the system in that manner tho.
service manual and parts links in my signature block below
yes, I do have the owners manual. Thanks for the info.
 
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