Make sure its in neutral and that the neutral light comes on, Check the kill switch on the handlebar. Then check the fuel cutoff relay. Get the service manual (linked here on the forums) if you haven't got it yet cause you'll be needing it.
Taped up wires? Had more than my share of fixing those, so nowadays if someone brings me a machine with a hacked up wiring harness I politely refuse to bail them out. Further ahead generally to replace harnesses that have been butchered than chase cobbles and wonder... so thats how I handle the stupid ones....I'll plan to unwrap all the tapped up wires, look them over carefully and locate the grounds for a look-see to make sure they are clean and connected. So far I have checked a couple easy to locate, one smaller green one connecting the fuel pump and one heavy black one on the frame to the right of the carb area and they are good. Fuses looked good too. No answer for the fix yet, but I'm still :smile
Any help pointing out ground locations?
Haha... well, thats great! Was hoping it was something simple cause it sounded like it could be.It's a miracle!!! Maybe...I think...? lol Anyway, it's working for the time being.
Thank you for sharing your insights with me Retro. I have read a few of your post and "you da man"! :hail:
Glad your harness is not hacked up!!!! A lot of guys will disconnect every little plug on the machine and clean them and put silicone grease in them to waterproof the wiring. Solves most of the corrosion problems and keeps the harness rubber soft and in great condition. I think its a great idea too, definitely worth your time to maintain reliability and prevent the odd intermittent breakdown out in the field. Cheap and easy too, so why not...?As far as the taped wire harness goes, actually, the tape was just at the first 3 or 4 inches of the harness. So that was good!!!
I was cleaning around the wire connection on the ignition coil when I thought I heard my fuel pump kick on. It may have kicked on earlier while cleaning grounds, but I didn't hear it. I had the key on hoping to hear it engage while cleaning grounds and wiggling wires. Anyway, I don't know if it could still be a problem that is intermittent, so I'll leave the fenders off and keep starting it over and over for a few days. Perhaps if it's something going bad it will cut out again. We shall see. Mean time, thx again!
I'm happy if I can help you more than I can harm you! LOL Thanks for the kind thank you!Retro,
Thank you again for all this great advice.
You sure have me second guessing myself on all those electrical connections. lol But I sure think I got them all. I even put a dab of dialectic grease on them after cleaning them up.
I'm confident that the ignition coil and wire to the plug are fine. I actually replaced it, just to be sure.
I got an Auto Star fuel pump that bragged it was made of all the good stuff and better than those cheap ones you described. You can check and tell me what you think. If I need to replace it, I will.
Fuel Pump For Honda TRX350 TRX350D 4x4 4WD FOURTRAX FOREMAN 350 1986-1989 NEW | eBay
As far as the resistance of the pulse generator goes. I'll read up on it and give it a test it asap.
Rest assure, if I end up having to purchase a new CDI after all of this, it will be the good one.
Well, I can't be sure about your meter unless I'm there to see it for myself. Is there a lower ohms setting on your meter that you can use for another test? This pulse gen test may not be necessary at all... the motor runs... we just covering butts here...I believe the the puls generator tested okay, but I'm not sure if I had my multimeter set up correctly.
I set my multimeter at 2K and it read .308
The manual said the resistance should be between 300 and 360 ohms.
Is that the right setting on the meter, 2K?
I checked both the ground wire and the frame and got the same reading.