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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a new member and this is my first post.
I also sent a PM to shadetree!

What is the procedure for fixing a 1986 Honda 350 fourtrax that has lots of slack in the upper steering column.
Appears to be a bushing worn out but not shown on any parts diagrams.

What is the repair procedure.

I'm a auto and small engine mechanic and have all kinds of tools, but no Honda ATV experience yet!
 

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here ya go, still being sold, #2, Honda ATV Parts 1986 TRX350 A STEERING SHAFT Diagram . you will need to remove the tie rod from the bottom of the steering shaft, then carter pin, then that large nut, and I highly recommend a air impact driver tool !..lol. it's on there tight !. once you get all that off, you will have to pull the steering shaft all the way out of the steering Colum. this means, all your cables and stuff will need to be removed off the handle bars in order to raise the shaft out of the Colum. then just slide the new bushing up around the steering shaft, then slide the shaft back down inside the Colum, then bolt everything back up. while you have the shaft out ??..NOW IS THE TIME TO REMOVE THE DUST SEAL, SNAP RING, THEN FROM UNDER NEATH, HAMMER THE BEARING OUT AND UP!. it may be stuck/rusty ?, toss some wd-40 on it, then hammer the bearing up and out, make sure to hit both sides or in the middle of the bearing, but the sides is the best, you don't want to knock the center race out ?, or your bearing is gonna bust apart !..lol.
 

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just a tip : I went one further a few years ago ?, I ran into this same problem with an old trx350, but instead of buying a new bushing ?, I made my own..lol. I found an old bearing race, that was the correct OD diameter , but the inside ID, was a tad too small for my steering shaft to fit down through the race ?, well..after about 2 hours of grinding with my dremel tool with a grinding stone ?, I was able to get the ID perfect size for the steering shaft. then I just hammered the race down in the Colum, presto, home-made bushing..lol. best part ?..IS BEARING RACES ARE TEMPERED ?..THEY WON'T WEAR NEARLY AS FAST AS THOSE STUPID PLASTIC BUSHINGS !. WILL LAST A LIFE TIME TO THE BUYER WHO BOUGHT IT.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1986 Honda 4 trax 350

Ok, so I should get at least #2 and 15 and I prefer to have parts I might need before starting? Know of any other parts I should try to have on hand?
See several parts have gone way of dinosaur eggs!

I have the impacts and gear pullers if needed.

Appears I need to leave the #1 stay bracket in place until I pull the shaft out, then maybe easier to remove it for replacing the bearing inside, I'm assuming that the shaft slip fist thru the center bearing race and usually not stuck or seized in the bearing race????.

All the lower stuff when wiggling the handle bars seems a good fit just the upper bushing completely gone.

Thanks for the bushing tip, I've been know to Rube Goldberg better stuff to replace such plastic bushing, I've got all size of pipe and big bits, welders and oxy/acty torchs to make a metal bushing and bucket full of all sizes of bearings.
 

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Ok, so I should get at least #2 and 15 and I prefer to have parts I might need before starting? Know of any other parts I should try to have on hand?
See several parts have gone way of dinosaur eggs!

I have the impacts and gear pullers if needed.

Appears I need to leave the #1 stay bracket in place until I pull the shaft out, then maybe easier to remove it for replacing the bearing inside, I'm assuming that the shaft slip fist thru the center bearing race and usually not stuck or seized in the bearing race????.

All the lower stuff when wiggling the handle bars seems a good fit just the upper bushing completely gone.

Thanks for the bushing tip, I've been know to Rube Goldberg better stuff to replace such plastic bushing, I've got all size of pipe and big bits, welders and oxy/acty torchs to make a metal bushing and bucket full of all sizes of bearings.
15 is the bearing, and I see a lock nut on top of it ?, it's one of those funky looking lock nuts that you need a spec tool to use to unscrew it from the mounting bracket. yes, unbolt it after you remove the steering shaft. only 4 bolts hold it in the frame. you may as well try to get the top dust seal ( if you can ? ), the bearing, then the lower dust seal ( if you can ? ). do all of it while it's apart. most times the steering shaft never seizes in the bearing race ?, but the bearing sure as heck likes to stay in that dang hole !..lol. like I said, yu'll need to hammer it out from the bottom up. but remove that stupid lock nut first !..lol. I hate this about this model. the later years use a large c-clip to hold the bearing in. I don't even know why Honda went through so much trouble to keep the bearing in there ?, it's not like it's gonna work it's way out !..lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I stumbled across a Service manual for the 86 350 fourtrax on this site and downloaded it. and reviewed the removal process.

I went searching for info about the expensive tool ($60 and up) and found this info where you shadtree was talking to a guy and he rednecked a tool for the locknut.
Here is what I seen in this link at the forum site:

http://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/repair-maintenance/6037-1989-trx-350-tie-rod-print.html

Got a tool, and it was so amazingly simple that it almost hurt. I was waltzing around Princess Auto this AM when I came across a section of large threaded rods, and a rack full of rod joiners. These things were 1 1/4" six sides nuts, about 3" long with thread in the middle to match the large rods. BUT, they fit perfectly inside the star nut on the lower bracket. I then went to see if a 1/2" drive 1 1/4" socket would fit over the joiner. It did--perfectly and voila, I had my tool. Brought it home and extracted that locknut in about 10 seconds.

One guy said he used a piece of square tubing and a pipe wrench.
 

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I stumbled across a Service manual for the 86 350 fourtrax on this site and downloaded it. and reviewed the removal process.

I went searching for info about the expensive tool ($60 and up) and found this info where you shadtree was talking to a guy and he rednecked a tool for the locknut.
Here is what I seen in this link at the forum site:

http://www.hondaatvforums.net/forums/repair-maintenance/6037-1989-trx-350-tie-rod-print.html

Got a tool, and it was so amazingly simple that it almost hurt. I was waltzing around Princess Auto this AM when I came across a section of large threaded rods, and a rack full of rod joiners. These things were 1 1/4" six sides nuts, about 3" long with thread in the middle to match the large rods. BUT, they fit perfectly inside the star nut on the lower bracket. I then went to see if a 1/2" drive 1 1/4" socket would fit over the joiner. It did--perfectly and voila, I had my tool. Brought it home and extracted that locknut in about 10 seconds.

One guy said he used a piece of square tubing and a pipe wrench.
cool ! . yes..you use a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 tube and a pipe wrench to remove a larger lock nut on the rear differentials on some Honda atvs, the lock nut on the steering bearing is smaller though. was that bushing the correct bushing you needed ?.
 

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Hey BTW where is the manual for the 86 TRX350? I looked thru all the manuals (i Thot). I noticed my printed manual for the 86-89 series had a revision for pages in Chap 9
 

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Discussion Starter #10
was that bushing the correct bushing you needed ?.

shadetree: you asked the above.

Appears your parts link is correct, but I have not started actually flogging it yet.
I't hunting season right now and I'm going to use it thru season and then take it apart when I don't actually need it's useage.

I just bought it few days ago (has new tires) and it runs and drives good except for the aggravating slop in the upper steering bushing.

Thanks for all the good info.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hey BTW where is the manual for the 86 TRX350? I looked thru all the manuals (i Thot). I noticed my printed manual for the 86-89 series had a revision for pages in Chap 9
I searched and searched and seen several listed a freebies, but I think the one that I actually downloaded was from a link in a forum on this site about the 1986 350 4x4 fourtrax on this site and not in the regular manual section. I think maybe the guy was asking about a 1986 Honda fourtrax steering (like a bent tie rod end maybe and the loose steering and a guy responded posted a link to download the manual.

I went back later and was going to copy and paste the link in my Honda four trax file but could not immediately locate it.

First time I tried to download it did not download and I had to click on something like repair this download and it went. Kinda scary, but I have a real good anti-virus for windows 10. Took about 3 min's to download at high speed. Its the actual Honda Service manual.

If I can locate the link or figure out how to send you a copy link I'll do so, but I', busy today so it will be few days. In meantime if you locate such post it here so as we know you found such?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
shadetree: I got your PM's ok.

I did not get a notice in my email that you had replied and I just seen them today.

I ordered a bushing and bearing awhile ago but still shopping for best price for a dust seal.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Goober:

I sent you a couple of PM's about the Honda Service manual.

I got it burned onto a CD.
 

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shadetree: I got your PM's ok.

I did not get a notice in my email that you had replied and I just seen them today.

I ordered a bushing and bearing awhile ago but still shopping for best price for a dust seal.

Thanks
in your account settings ?, there is a place to check there to get a email when someone replies to your thread :). good luck finding those seals ?, I think they are discontinued ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
shadetree: I got your PM's ok.

I did not get a notice in my email that you had replied and I just seen them today.

I ordered a bushing and bearing awhile ago but still shopping for best price for a dust seal.

Thanks
in your account settings ?, there is a place to check there to get a email when someone replies to your thread :). good luck finding those seals ?, I think they are discontinued ?.
See all the obselete steering parts on flea bay, most have the full list price plus the added shipping. At least parts can be found. I seen a picture of the weird looking locknut. Some engineer (maybe a Ford better idea type engineer) had a brainfart when they were designing that screw in locknut just to hold a bearing in place. Appears to be brass and looks like it could be easily damaged (cracked) during removal with a square sided tool instead of a 6 sided tool if it happened to be seized in place.

Seen a receipt in the owners manual from O'Reilly's auto supply where the previous owner bought a new battery for the 86 Fourtrax in April 2016 and paid $113.85 for a replacement battery. The batteries list price was $175 on the ticket. Appears like he got caught bent over (at the friendly auto parts store) maybe did not even receive a kiss and did not do some careful shopping for a battery.

Found the accounts sign up for PM's.


Thanks
 

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shadetree: I got your PM's ok.

I did not get a notice in my email that you had replied and I just seen them today.

I ordered a bushing and bearing awhile ago but still shopping for best price for a dust seal.

Thanks
in your account settings ?, there is a place to check there to get a email when someone replies to your thread :). good luck finding those seals ?, I think they are discontinued ?.
See all the obselete steering parts on flea bay, most have the full list price plus the added shipping. At least parts can be found. I seen a picture of the weird looking locknut. Some engineer (maybe a Ford better idea type engineer) had a brainfart when they were designing that screw in locknut just to hold a bearing in place. Appears to be brass and looks like it could be easily damaged (cracked) during removal with a square sided tool instead of a 6 sided tool if it happened to be seized in place.

Seen a receipt in the owners manual from O'Reilly's auto supply where the previous owner bought a new battery for the 86 Fourtrax in April 2016 and paid $113.85 for a replacement battery. The batteries list price was $175 on the ticket. Appears like he got caught bent over (at the friendly auto parts store) maybe did not even receive a kiss and did not do some careful shopping for a battery.

Found the accounts sign up for PM's.


Thanks
your welcome. as for that stupid lock nut ?, yeah..not to smart in my book ?!..lol. it's not like the bearing is going to fall out the bottom ?..what a dumb idea for sure !. wait until you do some trx300's ?, lol. they are built ALMOST the same way ?, cept they have a large snap ring down under the top dust seal ?, and they can be a royal pain to remove !, seeing how they always rust over/out ?, this makes it very hard to get snap ring pliers on them ?, and you don't have much room to use the pliers ?, what a pain they are to get out !. as for that battery ?, yeah..kinda steep ?, keep in mind !!!. The1986 TRX350 fourtrax uses the battery to fire the spark plug !!!!, from 1987 to 1989, they use the stators to fire the spark plug.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You say

The1986 TRX350 fourtrax uses the battery to fire the spark plug !!!!, from 1987 to 1989, they use the stators to fire the spark plug.

The guy I got if from said that the only real problem he ever had was it lost ignition fire once and a motorcycle guy said he replaced a stator or maybe CDI unit??
I looked at the ignition service diagram that I downloaded for the 86-87 350 4 trax and it does not show battery ignition in the ign diagram for the 1986-87 4 trax it shows a CDI unit and the battery not used or connected to the ignition, BUT THE 87-89 Foreman uses the battery for ignition per the diagram for a DC-CDI unit.

Next time I'm around the battery I'll disconnect a battery wire and see if it will start with the kick start. I don't like to remove battery power to electronic ignition when a machine is operating might get a spike.

Thanks for the heads up tip on that I'll keep it in the back of my mind.
 

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You say

The1986 TRX350 fourtrax uses the battery to fire the spark plug !!!!, from 1987 to 1989, they use the stators to fire the spark plug.

The guy I got if from said that the only real problem he ever had was it lost ignition fire once and a motorcycle guy said he replaced a stator or maybe CDI unit??
I looked at the ignition service diagram that I downloaded for the 86-87 350 4 trax and it does not show battery ignition in the ign diagram for the 1986-87 4 trax it shows a CDI unit and the battery not used or connected to the ignition, BUT THE 87-89 Foreman uses the battery for ignition per the diagram for a DC-CDI unit.

Next time I'm around the battery I'll disconnect a battery wire and see if it will start with the kick start. I don't like to remove battery power to electronic ignition when a machine is operating might get a spike.

Thanks for the heads up tip on that I'll keep it in the back of my mind.
it's listed in the ele tech section in the service manual. take a look at the c.d.i's, you will notice they are different.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had not seen or reviewed the tech section of the manual.

Good info about the rig in that area.

Thanks for the heads up notice.
 
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