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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Front brake shoe adjusters wont adjust. All four of the adjusters on both L&Right act same.

Looking through the hole in the drum I can see the threads of the adjusters are very rusty. (and see about 14-38 inch of rusty threads)

Is this seizing of the adjusters kinda common and can they usually be unstuck if the drum is removed and use a penetrating oil on the adjuster threads or ????

I have a Service manual but just want a little bit of hands on experience from someone who has been into one of these rigs.

The handlebar master cylinder lever contacts the handle bar before little bit of front brake is applied was why I started trying to adjust. The master cylinder is full of brake fluid and I bled both of the front brakes and all still the same. I cannot really see how much brake band is left on the shoes looking through the adjusting hole in the drum???
Do the drums usually come off easily when the axle nut is removed or ???(do I need to make a puller plate for the drums)



The 350 fourtrax front brakes was like this when I bought it sometime back.
 

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Hey Okie!
Drums usually come right off--take off the wheel, the cotter pin and castle but, then a small (6mm) alignment bolt. Should slide right off. Careful there are seals on the inner and outer edges. sometimes if the adjusters don't work and the shoes are into the hubs then can be a chore.

My adjusters work fine I can't see all of the mm failing but possible. Was your brake lever bent?
 

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Your probably going to want to remove the cylinders and soak them in some penetrating oil for a while, get them cleaned up and overhaul them. @Goober and @shadetree are pretty hot when it comes to 350d's, they'll point you in the right direction for sure.
 

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Hey Okie!
Drums usually come right off--sometimes if the adjusters don't work and the shoes are into the hubs then can be a chore.

My adjusters work fine I can't see all of the mm failing but possible. Was your brake lever bent?
Bet me to it haha
 

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Front brake shoe adjusters wont adjust. All four of the adjusters on both left & right act same.

Looking through the hole in the drum I can see the threads of the adjusters are very rusty. (about 1/4" - 3/8" rusty threads)

Is this seizing of the adjusters kinda' common and can they usually be unstuck if the drum is removed and use a penetrating oil on the adjuster threads ......
Most times, the adjusters can be made to work again. Penetrating oil, wire wheel/brush, and patience .....
Once freed-up, a light coating of 'never seize' will keep them working as they should.

The brakes on these old machines can be cleaned up quite easily, and they are easy to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Hey Okie!
Drums usually come right off--take off the wheel, the cotter pin and castle but, then a small (6mm) alignment bolt. Should slide right off. Careful there are seals on the inner and outer edges. sometimes if the adjusters don't work and the shoes are into the hubs then can be a chore.

My adjusters work fine I can't see all of the mm failing but possible. Was your brake lever bent?[/QUOTE]

Brake lever is not bent.
I might get a chance to flog it tomorrow. I noticed when I pulled both front wheel rims off that the rubber plug in the rim that seals the adjuster hole was not over the hole which allowed dirt and muck to enter the drums easily. (the rims have to be installed (indexed) so as the rubber plug in the rims seal the adjuster access hole) Looking through that adjuster hole in the drum I could see that all of the adjusters threads were very rusty.
You mentioned that the 6mm bolt needs to be removed to get the drum off. That is not mentioned in the Service manual unless I overlooked it as needing to removed to remove the drum. Reason I mention this is each of those single bolts in each drum looks very rusted just looking at the head and might twist off if care in not taken. Is it possible to leave that single bolt in until I get the drum off. You mention the 6mm bolt as a alignment bolt. I see where MAYBE the small bolt has to be removed to remove the drum from the wheel hub and it appears I can leave it in place and bring the wheel hub off with the drum?? A couple of the adjusters are so rusty that I cannot even see threads for the rust. I do not see any sign of brake fluid leaks though from the wheel cylinders.
 

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you need to make you one of these :). home made hub puller made from an old Honda hub and c-clamp.
 

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Hey Okie they are called drum mounting bolts. 1 each for 86; 2 each for 87 and up. They screw into the hub and are the size of the tailpipe guard bolts.
If they break off I think no biggie should be able to drill them out and get the drum off
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
you need to make you one of these :). home made hub puller made from an old Honda hub and c-clamp.


That type similar puller is what I was thinking about when I asked if I might need a hub puller .I have several different type pullers, several are homemade and I have some pullers that are similar that were used on the old model vec's to pull the rear hubs that had the keyed tapered axles.
I have a cutting torch and welder also and can Rube Goldberg a puller if needed.

Just have to be careful and make sure when using a puller that the brake shoes, backing plate, etc, are not being warped and broken if a shoe hung to the drum innards.

Also noticed the brake parts on these 1986 Honda models are pricy as compared to the later models.
The rusty innards looks like several dogs have been taking turns marking their territory on them.:eek:sad

Thanks for the info.
 

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The brake drums are 86 only part numbers not sure about the other bits. Eebae sellers sometimes try to pass off brake parts as 86-89 Fourtrax not always correct
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the Brake drums off with minimum pain and carefully freed up the adjusters using pair of channel locks gently working them back and forth and added anti-sieze to the threads and all ok.

The shoes were in good shapes and all else A ok.

I was kinda surprised that the front brakes do not really brake or slow down the machine as well as the single wheel rear brake.

I have to be careful and stay off the front brakes or just feather them on my Yamaha big bear going downhill.

Thanks for all the tips.
 
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