[jmarsh223]

I know there are numerous upon numerous topics along this line. Thankfully, between the long hours of reading posts and my service manual, i believe i have found my issue. Starting at the cdi, i checked the ohms and continuity. Finding i have a faulty engine kill switch along with shorted out ignition coil. I have replaced the coil once before with an aftermarket. It didnt last very long, so would someone possibly know where to obtain these items?

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[jmarsh223]

Thats where i bought this one from, it was even an ngk brand but just didnt last very long. Now that i am thinking, I know you strive on the importance of a full strong battery. I know this battery is getting up there in age, would that effect the life of the coil?

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[jmarsh223]

Thats where i bought this one from, it was even an ngk brand but just didnt last very long. Now that i am thinking, I know you strive on the importance of a full strong battery. I know this battery is getting up there in age, would that effect the life of the coil?

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it won't fire worth a crap on an '86 model if your battery is not good !. before you rule out the spark plug coil ?, make sure your trying to crank her over on a fully charged battery !. tip: the battery on that model is the heart of it running or not ?! .

Yes i understand that but even when i ohm my coil out it has no resistance green pin to black pin. From pin to cap it is 7.5ohms at minimum and it is only at at 7.2ohm and without plug cap it should 3.7ohm and i have 2.7ohm

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[jmarsh223]

it won't fire worth a crap on an '86 model if your battery is not good !. before you rule out the spark plug coil ?, make sure your trying to crank her over on a fully charged battery !. tip: the battery on that model is the heart of it running or not ?! .

Yes i understand that but even when i ohm my coil out it has no resistance green pin to black pin. From pin to cap it is 7.5ohms at minimum and it is only at at 7.2ohm and without plug cap it should 3.7ohm and i have 2.7ohm

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trim about 1/4 in off the cap end wire, then take readings again, see if it bumps up ?.

2.88ohm with a 1/4" trim


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[jmarsh223]

From green pin to black pin on the end what type of resistance should i be seeing?

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[jmarsh223]

I have a factory service manual and it is saying .1 to .2 ohm i have no resistance at all between those two pins

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[jmarsh223]

From green pin to black pin on the end what type of resistance should i be seeing?

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I don't have my service manual with me, it's in the shop, it should be listed in your service manual if you down loaded it from here ?.

Got a brand new battery full charge. I pulled out my test light and i tested on the ignition coil and i get nothing. I am getting a for sure fire from my exciter coil to the cdi but nothing else. Is this supposed to be like this?

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[jmarsh223]

Sorry haven't been much help long week at the job I'll check book ohm mine tomorrow.
Part number 30510-kto-405
Another thing to check is make sure you have the correct resistor plug. If you're not using an OEM coil then you might not be generating enough resistance in the circuit to get a good spark.
But I will check mine tomorrow and let you know what it checks to be

No problem, i understand woke up this morning going damn its already thursday... much to my surprise. The coil i can understand but why would i not have spark to the coil itself. What pins on the cdi should be hot when the start button is pushed?

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[jmarsh223]

Sorry haven't been much help long week at the job I'll check book ohm mine tomorrow.
Part number 30510-kto-405
Another thing to check is make sure you have the correct resistor plug. If you're not using an OEM coil then you might not be generating enough resistance in the circuit to get a good spark.
But I will check mine tomorrow and let you know what it checks to be

No problem, i understand woke up this morning going damn its already thursday... much to my surprise. The coil i can understand but why would i not have spark to the coil itself. What pins on the cdi should be hot when the start button is pushed?

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because the fuel cut-off relay controls the spark.

Anyway to test it?

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[jmarsh223]

because the fuel cut-off relay controls the spark.

Anyway to test it?

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to test the fuel cut-off relay ?, sure, the manual tells ya how. but, if you just want to see if the relay works ?, remove the fuel line from fuel pump to carb, turn key on, crank it over, does the fuel pump work ?, if not ?.either pump is bad ?, or fuel cut-off relay is bad ?. YOU SHOULD HAVE AN OEM FUEL PUMP !. knock-off's suck !. if the relay is not working the pump ?, and the pump was tested with 12 volts to it, and you know the oem pumps works ?, then you can bypass the relay with a jumper wire at the relay on the wire harness side, you will need to read the correct wire pins to jump ?, I don't have my service manual in front of me.

What is the stock pump number?


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[jmarsh223]

and it shows they have them in stock .

Parts are on the way, i just bought both never hurts to have extra parts!

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[jmarsh223]

and it shows they have them in stock .

One more quick question the z shaped fuel line, is it an impossible find?

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[jmarsh223]

Good work! Yeah Friday. I'll take those measurements fo sho tomorrow. I have been planning to buy an extra fuel cutoff myself.
I did not reinstall the original fuel lines--they had split ends--so I bought new fuel line. I kept the old ones. The problem was the old lines were molded shape plus the new line is curved and kept kinking when I ran it straight . So I ran it from the filter in a short loop to the pump to relieve the kinking

So your filter is after the pump?

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[jmarsh223]

No I used 5/16" pvc fuel hose from the petcock to the filter in a loop; used the same from the filter to the pump; then 1/4" pvc fuel hose from the pump to the carb. The old fuel hoses were molded exactly to minimize length but I could not shape the new hose plus it seemed difficult to eliminate the coil memory of the new hose.

I could've made the loops shorter and routed them differently--seems the pump hose has a bit of kinking yet

I was mainly concerned from the pump to the carb... i did similar to your design there


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[jmarsh223]

Yup here's pic

Awesome thanks!

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[jmarsh223]

Ok I tested the coil. On the green lead to plug connector 8.90kohms. on the black-yellow lead 8.88kohm this is in spec
KiloOhm scale
From green lead to Bl-Y was 0.2-0.3 ohm
A bit high but I was running it this morning

Service manual says .1 to .2 ohms so youre good. On my coil i have no resistance from G/W to Bl/Y

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[jmarsh223]

Bummer that sounds like an internal failure requiring a replacement ignition coil. I don't think these can be easily repaired--at least I don't think they were intended to be repaired.

Yeah, but i have to get spark to it first. Fingers crossed its not my cdi

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[jmarsh223]

and it shows they have them in stock .

Ok so does the spark come from the cdi to the fuel relay then to the coil? Or does it come from the fuel relay to the cdi then to the coil?

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[jmarsh223]

Bummer that sounds like an internal failure requiring a replacement ignition coil. I don't think these can be easily repaired--at least I don't think they were intended to be repaired.

Hey goob, do you know if the where the spark starts? cdi or fuel relay?

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[jmarsh223]

Ok I tested the coil. On the green lead to plug connector 8.90kohms. on the black-yellow lead 8.88kohm this is in spec
KiloOhm scale
From green lead to Bl-Y was 0.2-0.3 ohm
A bit high but I was running it this morning

Sure wish my plastics looked as good as yours


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