[Goober]

Sorry haven't been much help long week at the job I'll check book ohm mine tomorrow.
Part number 30510-kto-405
Another thing to check is make sure you have the correct resistor plug. If you're not using an OEM coil then you might not be generating enough resistance in the circuit to get a good spark.
But I will check mine tomorrow and let you know what it checks to be

 

[Goober]

Good work! Yeah Friday. I'll take those measurements fo sho tomorrow. I have been planning to buy an extra fuel cutoff myself.
I did not reinstall the original fuel lines--they had split ends--so I bought new fuel line. I kept the old ones. The problem was the old lines were molded shape plus the new line is curved and kept kinking when I ran it straight . So I ran it from the filter in a short loop to the pump to relieve the kinking

 

[Goober]

No I used 5/16" pvc fuel hose from the petcock to the filter in a loop; used the same from the filter to the pump; then 1/4" pvc fuel hose from the pump to the carb. The old fuel hoses were molded exactly to minimize length but I could not shape the new hose plus it seemed difficult to eliminate the coil memory of the new hose.

I could've made the loops shorter and routed them differently--seems the pump hose has a bit of kinking yet

 

[Goober]

Yup here's pic

 

[Goober]

Ok I tested the coil. On the green lead to plug connector 8.90kohms. on the black-yellow lead 8.88kohm this is in spec
KiloOhm scale
From green lead to Bl-Y was 0.2-0.3 ohm
A bit high but I was running it this morning

 

[Goober]

Bummer that sounds like an internal failure requiring a replacement ignition coil. I don't think these can be easily repaired--at least I don't think they were intended to be repaired.

 

[Goober]

Pure gold I'm writing this into my service manuals--Page 17-5 reserved for Shadetree

Is the pick up coil the pulse generator? What is the exciter coil role in ignition? Does it induce voltage into the pulse generator?

I have a non working cdi I want to test. I will try this pin to pin test with my Fluke meter although the manual says expect false readings with other than Sanwa or Kawa tester.

Thanks Shade

 

[Goober]

The table I posted is from the 86 only manual. Doesn't seem to be in the 86-89 manual

 

[Goober]

I ohmed out a bad cdi and a new CDI using the table. I got nothing except on EXT to E on the megaohm range I got 2.5 Megaohm. I don't think this is gonna be helpful

 

[Goober]

Based on what Shade said about the ignition circuit and knowing your ignition coil doesn't check out, I'm left considering whether that coil is the problem.
I have a spare CDI and want a spare fuel cutoff relay, so I could go either way. If it were me I'd replace the known fault first

 

[Goober]

I should've checked mine to see now that I think about it.
Well I know it's an expensive option but shop rate is $110 a hour at least--feel good that your efforts paid for the part and you'll be up and running.
And then it'll be something else you wanna fix?

 

[Goober]

Great job!
Did you have to replace the ignition coil?
When our shop Fourtrax needed a cam chain and tensioner I took it to the shop. That was about $879 as I recall.
Might have needed some other minor work

 

[Goober]

There ya go fine bidness then.
Do you know how many hours on it? This one I mentioned had 820 hours and was used mainly for snow removal. Valves were clacking lightly but constantly

It takes awhile to strip these beasts down; before I took mine in for the valve job stripped off fender, the air box etc and broke loose the valve cover bolts. May have saved two three hours. Be careful removing those valve cover bolts--get a good clean tight socket fit on them and gradually put the torque to them. Don't want to snap or round them off. Number them somehow they are all different lengths