I've looked in all my repair manuals and none of them list any specs for the CDI and the only checks listed are for the CDI plug on the harness side.nope..you can in fact ohm the cdi out..as long as you got the spec's for it..which i don't have handy..i keep my shop books at the shop..lol..but..yes..you can check them by ohming them out.
You are correct Helmut you cannot ohm the CDI Im looking at my book now it only states to disconnect the CDI unit connectors and perform the circuit inspections. you can only test the components that lead to the CDI!I've looked in all my repair manuals and none of them list any specs for the CDI and the only checks listed are for the CDI plug on the harness side.nope..you can in fact ohm the cdi out..as long as you got the spec's for it..which i don't have handy..i keep my shop books at the shop..lol..but..yes..you can check them by ohming them out.
Yeah, my money's on the stator or pulse generator.wow 3 ppl with same prob we have to get to the bottom of this issue
What do you mean you can't get power TO the stator? The stator is the part that generates the power.Hey, new here to the forums, but ive got the same problem. ive tested all the connections, i have the neutral and reverse light. i just cant seem to get power to the stator. So im guessing its a cdi issue? Anyone know where a good place to get one is? Thanks sorry dont mean to hijack your thread
Hondabond would be better because it doesn't cure rubbery. RTV sealant will work, but just barely spread a thin layer on. If you put it on too thick, it will squeeze out on the inside of the engine and when it dries it will be rubbery. If it breaks loose on the inside of the engine, it can stop the oil pump up. I learned that the hard way. You can get Hondabond at your local Honda dealer and it costs about the same as a tube of RTV sealant. If you decide to go with the RTV sealant, just put a very, very thin layer on.yeah sorry my lack of knowledge got the best of me. I meant the ignition coil, but yesterday i took the stator off and compared it to the other stator and the one that was on it is pretty bad and im positive thats what it is. Im going to try and switch them out today. Although getting the old gasket off of is a pain in the a$$. Think i would be ok with a high temp rtv gasket maker? I plan on using it, i already checked and its ok for the conditions it will be under.
you can ohm it out..i don't know the spec's..but..unplug it from the wiring harness..should be 3 yellow wires that go into a round plug. other than this check, i don't know any other check to see if your stator is bad..now..you can check to see if it's working your lights..unhook your battery ..postive side, kick start your bike..watch your nuetral light..if it glows as you kick it..at least your stator side for the battery is fine..also..i'll throw this in..as if i remember right..those atv's had a resistor inside the end of the spark plug boot..look's just like a slow blow fuse..check to see if you have one ??..if so..keep the spark plug boot off..with just the bare spark plug wire near your motor..crank your engine over..does it fire then ??..if so..if you have that fuse thing inside your spark plug wire..thats your problem...edit:..would like to add..make sure your kill switch is on the '' run'' position !.any update on this problem?i have changed the coil and cdi,no spark.guess the next will be the stator.how do you test the stator first????