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Discussion Starter #1
1985 TRX250 Fourtrax: Electric start works fine but kickstart won’t engage, quad won’t move (clutch not engaging) and the clutch adjusting screw (on right side case) doesn’t seem to be doing anything. Would all these issues be 100% caused by a bad one way clutch? Also, the centrifugal clutch drum on my machine looks like it has some black coating around the outside which isn’t typical of the shop manual photos. When I took off the right side case the clutch drum actually looked like it was made out of rubber or black plastic. Is this normal?
 

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one-way centrifugal clutch bearing has NOTHING to do with the change clutch ! ( clutch basket ). that one-way centrifugal clutch bearing only does two main things 1#, it allows you to kick start it, #2, it is used for engine braking, that's it !. the centrifugal clutch on most clutches are all blueish/black..spec really black if some dummy road it hard ??, used wrong oil ? ( did not use wet clutch approved oil ! ).
 

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one-way centrifugal clutch bearing has NOTHING to do with the change clutch ! ( clutch basket ). that one-way centrifugal clutch bearing only does two main things 1#, it allows you to kick start it, #2, it is used for engine braking, that's it !. the centrifugal clutch on most clutches are all blueish/black..spec really black if some dummy road it hard ??, used wrong oil ? ( did not use wet clutch approved oil ! ).
So only my kickstart issue is due to the one-way bearing? Everything else looks right (plenty of material and grooving on the weight lining ). Can’t figure out why the clutch adjuster does nothing and the transmission barely moves the quad. At least I can take care of the bearing issue. I know I can remove the centrifugal clutch with an air impact wrench but how can you tighten it to the proper torque without the special “Clutch Holder” tool shown in the manual? Does everyone just use a strap wrench?
 

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So only my kickstart issue is due to the one-way bearing? Everything else looks right (plenty of material and grooving on the weight lining ). Can’t figure out why the clutch adjuster does nothing and the transmission barely moves the quad. At least I can take care of the bearing issue. I know I can remove the centrifugal clutch with an air impact wrench but how can you tighten it to the proper torque without the special “Clutch Holder” tool shown in the manual? Does everyone just use a strap wrench?
again, the one-way bearing thats inside the centrifugal clutch only lets you use the kick start, and engine braking. the weights inside the centrifugal clutch ( clutch arms ), when your rpm goes up, they spread out into the bell housing, when they grab the inside of the housing, this transfers the spinning force to the change clutch, which is attached to your transmission.

Yes, you can use a air impact gun to zip the nuts off both of these clutches, you do not need a spec tool to hold anything ?, BUT !!!, you may find it hard to '' pop '' the centrifugal clutch off of the crank ?, its pressed on the crank. it may or may not require a clutch tool to thread onto the fine threads of the clutch, turn in to press against the crank, and force the centrifugal clutch off the crank ?. some can be smacked with a hammer , and help them off ?, others may need this tool to pop them off the crank.

WARNING !!!!: the centrifugal clutch nut is LEFT HANDED THREADS !!!!, you need to go clockwise to remove the nut, the change clutch is reg right hand threads, counter-clockwise to remove nut. if the adjusting nut does not improve your movement ?, then chances are the friction disk in the change clutch are worn out ?, the centrifugal weights are worn out ?, the bell housing on the centrifugal is worn '' grooved '' to much ?, or..the adjusting nut is seized, and not doing anything when you move/adjust the clutch ?.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
again, the one-way bearing thats inside the centrifugal clutch only lets you use the kick start, and engine braking. the weights inside the centrifugal clutch ( clutch arms ), when your rpm goes up, they spread out into the bell housing, when they grab the inside of the housing, this transfers the spinning force to the change clutch, which is attached to your transmission.

Yes, you can use a air impact gun to zip the nuts off both of these clutches, you do not need a spec tool to hold anything ?, BUT !!!, you may find it hard to '' pop '' the centrifugal clutch off of the crank ?, its pressed on the crank. it may or may not require a clutch tool to thread onto the fine threads of the clutch, turn in to press against the crank, and force the centrifugal clutch off the crank ?. some can be smacked with a hammer , and help them off ?, others may need this tool to pop them off the crank.

WARNING !!!!: the centrifugal clutch nut is LEFT HANDED THREADS !!!!, you need to go clockwise to remove the nut, the change clutch is reg right hand threads, counter-clockwise to remove nut. if the adjusting nut does not improve your movement ?, then chances are the friction disk in the change clutch are worn out ?, the centrifugal weights are worn out ?, the bell housing on the centrifugal is worn '' grooved '' to much ?, or..the adjusting nut is seized, and not doing anything when you move/adjust the clutch ?.
again, the one-way bearing thats inside the centrifugal clutch only lets you use the kick start, and engine braking. the weights inside the centrifugal clutch ( clutch arms ), when your rpm goes up, they spread out into the bell housing, when they grab the inside of the housing, this transfers the spinning force to the change clutch, which is attached to your transmission.

Yes, you can use a air impact gun to zip the nuts off both of these clutches, you do not need a spec tool to hold anything ?, BUT !!!, you may find it hard to '' pop '' the centrifugal clutch off of the crank ?, its pressed on the crank. it may or may not require a clutch tool to thread onto the fine threads of the clutch, turn in to press against the crank, and force the centrifugal clutch off the crank ?. some can be smacked with a hammer , and help them off ?, others may need this tool to pop them off the crank.

WARNING !!!!: the centrifugal clutch nut is LEFT HANDED THREADS !!!!, you need to go clockwise to remove the nut, the change clutch is reg right hand threads, counter-clockwise to remove nut. if the adjusting nut does not improve your movement ?, then chances are the friction disk in the change clutch are worn out ?, the centrifugal weights are worn out ?, the bell housing on the centrifugal is worn '' grooved '' to much ?, or..the adjusting nut is seized, and not doing anything when you move/adjust the clutch ?.
I’ll have to measure the clutch steel and friction plates to see if they’re out of spec. This
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’ll have to measure the clutch steel and friction plates to see if they’re out of spec. This machine was a farm quad.and seems to have been used regularly over the years (not left to rot in the mud). I’m having the fenders plastic-welded properly, have located an original headlight w/handle and plan to bring this TRX back to its former glory.
 

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OK, now I'm really confused. I mic'd the existing clutch (friction) plates and steels and everything is right in the middle of the specs (manual states 0.09" as the serviceable limit and all 5 plates were 0.103" - 0.106"). Can anyone give me a clue as to what to check next? When the quad is running and it's shifted into gear it goes nowhere so I suspected very warn clutch plates. There's no grinding noises or wierd vibrations, just no movement. Is there something in the driveshaft/rear axle that may have sheared? Is this a common issue?
 

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OK, now I'm really confused. I mic'd the existing clutch (friction) plates and steels and everything is right in the middle of the specs (manual states 0.09" as the serviceable limit and all 5 plates were 0.103" - 0.106"). Can anyone give me a clue as to what to check next? When the quad is running and it's shifted into gear it goes nowhere so I suspected very warn clutch plates. There's no grinding noises or wierd vibrations, just no movement. Is there something in the driveshaft/rear axle that may have sheared? Is this a common issue?
loosen the rear output shaft band screw, pull the boot back, while in gear with rear up, see if the rear output shaft turns ?. if it does ?, then try adjusting the clutch, still does not rule out a bad rear differential though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I see 1997-2000 Honda TRX250 Recon centrifugal clutches online everywhere but have never seen one specifically for a 1985 TRX250 2x4. Does the 1997-2000 centrifugal clutch interchange with a 1985 TRX250? They're not that expensive and I'd like to get one as a spare before those become unavailable. Even if the entire clutch doesn't interchange could just the linings be swapped from the 1997-2000 onto my 1985 centrifugal clutch?
 
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