I have no experience with those rust-oleum spray paints you listed, but you can use almost anything that sticks, doesn't come off with the power washer, doesn't melt when oils greases and/or fuel comes in contact with the coatings and doesn't fade away under the sun. There are many cheap paint options to choose from and each bike requires different flats & glossy color combinations. I choose different paints for every project... for a number of reasons, costs being only one of them, and I'm always looking for something different & better out of a cheap spray can.... though we all know there is no such thing as quality from a rattle can!
Below is a photo of the spray paint choices I have made concerning my
current project, with the exception of the wally world paint. Those wally paints I've had on hand for months, but I'm afraid to use any of them on an ATV because of my harsh environment. My area has thick, wet, very salty red clay that builds up on metal parts (very difficult to remove!) and stains and corrodes the metals. I also live where high levels of UV sunlight is a big issue, many paints fade fast, break down, and then blow off the metals while the ATV is being power washed. Other folks get by OK using wally world paints in their environment, but I'm still searching for better, more durable solutions here.
Bottom line: Rattle can paints are cheap but quality is quite low. Ya gotta work a lot harder using cheap paints, to get decent, long lasting results.
With all that said, I am currently using Rust-oleum rattle cans on ATVs and am having pretty good results with them. Amazon has some good deals going from time to time and thats where I get most of mine. One thing to keep in mind is that the rust-oleum paints require several days drying time to reach a fully cured condition. Most of the cans state 24 hours for full dry... thats nonsense though. I don't lay a finger on any of my painted parts until 3-4 days have passed minimum, because the finishes will still be very soft. Expect two weeks minimum to reach a decent finish cure.... three weeks are even better if you can wait that long. Do not expose any painted parts to fuel, oils or other chemical compounds until fully cured if you can help it.
I use the Duplicolor silver caliper paint on a lot of parts requiring a light silver color. For darker silver hues I prefer the Rust-oleum caliper paint, because it can be sprayed on a bit thicker, it flows out well when its wet and provides a more durable cured finish than the Dupli-color caliper paint will. Rust-oleum caliper paints stand up to motor oils quite well too, possibly even better than the Rust-oleum engine paints do.
I use engine paint where I want a very high gloss finish, but it takes a lot of coats to make engine paint look good and they take forever to fully cure. Once cured they work fine though. Black Rust-oleum caliper paint works well on handlebar controls such as throttle housings, master cylinder, switch housings, touching up bumpers, frames, racks, A-arms, swingarms, brake pedals, etc.
I use high temp paints on exhaust parts only and I do them in two steps: 1st step is applying the color coats then let them cure (don't handle them, pay no attention to the instructions on the can) for a couple hours. 2nd step is done with Rust-oleum 2000 degrees clear coating. Beware if you use the 2000 degrees clear coat on exhaust parts that it sprays out very thin and it runs like crazy! Hold the can back away from parts and move your spray pattern fast... you must wet the part fully each coat, but anymore than wet is too much and it will run! It takes patience and practice and good bright lighting to succeed. Once you get three wet coats of that clear on though, its an awesome sealing finish! Let those exhaust parts fully cure for two full weeks minimum! Then if they aren't too long put them in the wife's oven at 250 degrees for about 30 minutes then shut the oven off and let them slowly cool. Repeat at 350 degrees... then you're done! If you can't heat treat them in the oven then heat cycle them on the motor... sneak up on full exhaust operating temps by shutting the motor down and allowing parts to cool between heat cycling sessions. The key to success using exhaust paints is the two full weeks (or more) of cure time. Once fully cured they gas off very little during heat treating, which means they look great on your parts.
Its your call on paint choices... we each do things differently to satisfy our own logic and reasoning. Every ATV model is different too, so each might require different brands, hues of rattle cans.
Have fun!
. plz make sure all your parts are oem..and not some stupid china knock-off parts claiming to be oem ?!. your right, ebay will be your main source, as most parts for that atv has been discontinued !, this is why i stress about getting parts that '' they say are oem ''..lol.
