13 Rancher ES 4X4 trouble shifting

1204 Views 10 Replies 3 Participants Last post by retro, Aug 3, 2018

Redmastercraft

Discussion Starter · Jul 29, 2018

My 13 Rancher is giving me trouble shifting and I'm struggling to figure out were the problem is. If I accelerate up 8mph or so then let off the accelerator and try to upshift it will not shift. I'll hit the upshift again and it will go but by the time i do this double shift the mph is almost back to zero. Same thing happens on the 2-3 shift but not as often on the 3-4 and never on the 4-5.

I've changed the shift motor, all the reduction gearing, the shift button control and the angle sensor and nothing helped.

The atv came from my in-laws and was used on the farm. It's has 10k miles and 1600 hrs. It has been well taken care of so still pulls strong.

Is this a clutch issue or am I just operating it wrong?

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retro

· #2 · Jul 29, 2018 (Edited)

Assuming the clutch is adjusted right and you have a proper motor oil (wet clutch approved) in it and the oil is clean, more than likely that it is caused by one of four things:

1) Weak or failing battery

2) Dirty/corroded or wet harness connector(s), or dirty/corroded/loose battery & grounds (motor & frame) cables.

3) Poorly lubed reduction gears and/or reduction gear bearings are cocked in the housing/case & need fresh lube. Or the housing bolts were overtightened and caused warpage/binding of the shafts/gears.

4) Shift motor needs to be taken apart for cleaning, fresh grease, or replaced if water has gotten inside or bearings, brushes are bad.

Of course, if there are any china parts put in the system in place of OEM, that becomes the number one reason.

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retro

· #4 · Jul 30, 2018

Well, poor battery condition is the most troublesome component in the ESP system, believe it or not. The ES bikes all require a good strong battery. You've run that battery dead, so it was harmed and lost some of its capacity right there... and it may be the original battery for all we know.? Make sure the battery in it is the correct size then have it load tested, or skip that step (this is the best option) and replace it with a new one.

Adjust the clutch too. The manual states:

Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjusting screw
one full turn clockwise.
Slowly turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until
resistance is felt, then turn the adjusting screw 1/4 turn
clockwise.
Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut.

If the wrong oil was put in it throughout its life (Oil must be wet clutch compatible, JASO MA certified) the trans and clutches may have become damaged. I would change the motor oil and filter again after a couple hours of runtime, because some of that old oil remains in the motor and oil cooler each time you change it.

Let us know how it goes...

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retro

· #7 · Aug 1, 2018

Redmastercraft said:
Thanks for the input. I'll run this oil a bit and see what happens. It's drivable just annoying....I did adjust the clutch according to the service manual and no difference there either. I'm thinking its probably the oil and clutch plates being to grippy now.

Nope, it needs a new battery put in it. Also take the reduction gears cover off and push some fresh grease into the tiny shielded ball bearings that support the shafts in the gears cover and the front motor cover. Thorough lubing and a strong battery will allow it to shift better and faster than a new bike would. FACT.

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retro

· #9 · Aug 1, 2018

Thats funny!

I am saying the bearings need grease in them put there by human hands. No such thing as getting something for nothing.

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retro

· #11 · Aug 3, 2018

Sounds good, let us know how it goes if you can.

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