Hello new member here, thanks for all the great info I've found lurking on the site over the years! I have an 06 Honda foreman 500fm apart, 1st gear dogs were gone and 3rd was getting bad, my Clymer manual was a bit vague on the sealant location for the crankcase halves, but I believe just putting it on the outside sealing edges was correct? It didn't mention about putting any in the center surfaces, where the screen etc. Sits, and there was no evidence of sealer ever being on those spots. I used loctite 518 fwiw. Thanks in advance!
06 foreman crankcase sealant location
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Thanks for the reply, good for peace of mind! Loctite 518 is the sealer i used for the cases, it an anaerobic sealant that cures with the absence of air, so any excess sealer will mix up with and be drained out with the break in oil rather than get in places it should not! I didn't apply loctite to any of the bolts lol. Im starting to think from my searching anything other than hondabond is frowned upon around here, but ive used this stuff with great success in almost every situation. I used to work for detroit diesel and they used it everywhere on their engines (only they renamed it to detroit diesel anaerobic sealant lol) which is how i got on to using it. That leads me to another question, is there a recommended break-in oil for these engines? My clymer manual didnt specify that either. putting a new piston and rings in as well, though i could have reused the old one if i wanted to. cylinder was honed at machine shop. Not bad for 20 000kms! Thanks again for the input, have gotten lots of good useful info from your posts over the years shadetree!
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I use nothing but yamabond or hondabond, never anything else !..lol. any oil rated for wet clutches will work. if its not rated for wet clutches ?..DO NOT USE IT !!.
Fair enough on the sealant, I've never seen the 518 fail (or 515 for that matter) and used it countless times but might switch over to hondabond or equivalent for crankcases next time just because it's the recommended goo for the job! Some diesel engine manufacturers recommend break in oil for proper seating of the rings, wasn't sure if it was a thing on these or not. Will keep using the valvolive wet clutch stuff!
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the reason I always use yamabond or hondabond ?, is because it never cures !. unlike other sealants which dries hard over time, breaks off, fall into the engine, finds the oil pumps, oil galleys, and places where it should not be ?, now you have engine damage !.
The 518 is kinda along the same lines, it cures only with the absence of air, so the only place it will harden is in between the cases where it's squished, the excess sealant that sqeezes out stays more or less liquid form and just washes away, so it won't plug up anything, unlike RTV sealants! This one is together now but will switch to hondabond next time anyhow. I seen an old 671 2 stroke Detroit diesel that a guy put shameful amounts of RTV on the head gasket and everywhere else, oil would drain very slowly from the top end and his pick-up screen was plugged with the stuff! Would be all the worse on these little engines. Thanks again for your help!
Ya I always thought the syn. Oil won't allow proper break in was bs, until I used synthetic in a John Deere engine I rebuilt (local JD expert sugested that the break in oil they sold was junk, just use what the customer will be running in the engine, which was 5w40 chevron synthetic. Used a gallon of it the first week! Switched to conventional for the next few changes, oil usage eventually stabilized at about 1 quart per 300 gallons of fuel burnt (JD guidelines is 1 quart per 100 gallons is normal!?) Engine never came back apart to actually see what the deal was, ran great and had no blow by to speak of. Could have been the aftermarket cylinder kits? Error on my part? Or the oil? Has always bothered me anyhow! So now I always try to use what the manufacturer suggests for break in oil!
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and you heard wrong. I run full synthetic in all my rebuilds from the first crank at start up, and i've yet not had the rings seat by using this oil. what the motors dont like is switching from none synthetic to full synthetic when new or rebuilt, its one of the other, but not going from one to the other !.
LOL. Well folks are arguing about it over on BITOG too, and those are oil nerds to the nth degree.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=129510
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=129510
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