Honda ATV Forum banner
1 - 20 of 88 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My bike has a pro circuit silent core muffler and a k&n filter. Been running fine then started bogging down when I would chop the throttle trying to turn around on a tight trail. Carb has 170 main jet and 48 pilot jet installed. First took the carb off and tore apart. Cleaned and installed complete rebuild kit. Re installed, adjusted and still the same. Seems to only do it after it’s warm. Idles a touch ruff but for the most part runs good. If I chop the throttle a little in gear when warm it will bog down and die. Sometimes I can touch the throttle and it goes back to idleing good. I reinstalled the factory air filter and still the same.I purchase a 168 and 172 main with a 50 pilot on the way. Have a new throttle sensor on the way and a ignition coil as well. Any help is very appreciated.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Removed carb again and checked the boot coming from manifold to front of carb. On the manifold side of the boot there is rib on the inside opening of the rubber boot and half of the rib has been ripped off or torn away. I ordered a new boot. Hopefully that is my problem!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Sounds like you found your issue before anyone got chance to reply lol. Post back and let us know if that was the issue
 
  • Like
Reactions: misterclean59

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We’ll got the new boot installed. Runs pretty good for the most part idles fine and smooth. If I chop the throttle it still has a touch of hesitation when it goes back to idle. I’ve got the 170 main jet in it and the spark plug is greyish. I have a 172 and a 168 main. I’m wondering if the 170 could be to much or not enough.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
Well, the main jet does not come on until near WOT & sufficient RPMs are attained. So any issues noticed in the bottom at/near idle speed have to be adjusted out by the pilot circuit and/or the needle jet clip position. Try adjusting the pilot screw in and out 1/4 turn at a time and see if you notice an improvement? Make sure the idle speed is kept at 1450-1500 RPMs while making those adjustments.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Just a heads up... When I was going through carb issues I noticed the plug would be grey before it took its final colour, how long did you run it for before removing the plug?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just a heads up... When I was going through carb issues I noticed the plug would be grey before it took its final colour, how long did you run it for before removing the plug?
maybe a mile or so. I’m going to ride it a bit more. I went out on our farm and rode. It seems with alittle load on it on a slight up hill slope it dies. Runs damn good at wot. If I’m in a slight incline or with it just sitting in gear and then chop the throttle a bit then it bogs down or will just die. It doesn’t have the clip positions on the needle. It has one washer under clip. I have upped the pilot jet to a 48 and still the same. I’m to the point of taking the carb off and dunking in a can of cleaner overnight and going back through the cleaning proccess again and going to a 50 pilot jet
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, the main jet does not come on until near WOT & sufficient RPMs are attained. So any issues noticed in the bottom at/near idle speed have to be adjusted out by the pilot circuit and/or the needle jet clip position. Try adjusting the pilot screw in and out 1/4 turn at a time and see if you notice an improvement? Make sure the idle speed is kept at 1450-1500 RPMs while making those adjustments.
I’ve adjusted it and adjusted it. The o rings on the pilot needle are good. I even went threw the idle down process in the manual. Guess I need to clean it again maybe.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
A simple solution maybe to start from scratch, clean the carb again (as you say) and then start with all OEM size jets and change them accordingly. I’d also fit an OEM air filter too until you have the carb dialed in for the exhaust. I’d start with the pilot, I don’t think you’ll need a bigger main.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
A simple solution maybe to start from scratch, clean the carb again (as you say) and then start with all OEM size jets and change them accordingly. I’d also fit an OEM air filter too until you have the carb dialed in for the exhaust. I’d start with the pilot, I don’t think you’ll need a bigger main.
I did the code retrieval and got 10 blinks. Showing ignition pulse generator. The bike seems to do it more when it’s warmed up. Could this be causing my problem I wonder?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,960 Posts
I would clear all codes and ride it again. If the code 10 comes back then you can troubleshoot it.

As far as the carb jetting, I would put everything back to stock like SamUK suggested. You need a baseline known good point to start testing and stock jetting provides that.

Keep us posted... and please be mindful of adult language usage here. We try to keep the forums fit for all ages. Thanks.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would clear all codes and ride it again. If the code 10 comes back then you can troubleshoot it.

As far as the carb jetting, I would put everything back to stock like SamUK suggested. You need a baseline known good point to start testing and stock jetting provides that.

Keep us posted... and please be mindful of adult language usage here. We try to keep the forums fit for all ages. Thanks.
Sorry for the language. I’ve put everything back to stock. 162.5 main jet. 45 main and the stock air filter and cage. Now I’m waiting for the wife and 5 month to wake up to try it out.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok guys. I put EVERYTHING back stock except for the muffler. The muffler is a pro circuit type 496. I have the 162.5 main, 45 pilot and stock air filter. Started back at 1700 rpms and let it warm up. After it was warmed I adjusted the the throttle stop the 1500 rpms. Then turned the pilot screw in and out until I gained the highest rpm. Open throttle 2-3 times. Turned pilot screw in until engine dropped 100 rpms then out 3/4 of a turn. Low and behold it still does the same thing. In D1 sitting on flat ground. Give it a bump of the throttle in forward and it slightly tries to die but picks back up. I bumped the throttle stop knob up to 1440 rpms and still. I can bump the throttle in Low range in D1 and it doesn’t do it more in reverse with it in D1.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
Which jets do you have to change? When you press the throttle where is the ‘bog/hesitation’? Between idle and 1/4, 1/4 to 1/2 or 1/2 to full?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My grammar sucks with this “smart” phone. It does not do the bog down in reverse or in Low. Just more when it has a load on it. I found a new Honda Keihin VE carb on eBay for $130. I bought it.... ugh
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Which jets do you have to change? When you press the throttle where is the ‘bog/hesitation’? Between idle and 1/4, 1/4 to 1/2 or 1/2 to full?[/QUOTE if I quickly hit it to 1/4 throttle or half throttle and immediately let off throttle it drops in rpms really low almost shutting off. I have 48 and 50 pilot jet. It has the 42 in it now. Factory
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
5,072 Posts
So try the next size up pilot jet you have, dial it in, ideally wants to be around 2 1/2 turns on the mixture. Could be anywhere between 2 and 3 turns though jets depending.

Don’t Forget to clean your plug between jet changes, I’d take photos too so you can look back in them.
 
1 - 20 of 88 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top