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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So i had a first happen to me today. My quad didnt start right up like it always does. It turned over kinda slow and weird. Battery is always on the tender and the light was green when i started so i dont suspect a bad battery. But it stopped turning over entirely and all i was getting was the solenoid clicking. So i grabbed my screw driver and crossed the solenoid and nothing. No sparking nothing. Start button just clicked the solenoid. Next i grabbed my fluke and started testing. Battery was at 12.7 volts. Fan was running neutral light was on and would sligtly dim when hitting the start button. I then checked across the solenoid with the meter. OL when off. Hit the start button contenuity perfect. So i dont suspect the solenoid. Went over to the starter checked ground to positive lug on starter. 12.7 volts when hitting start button. Starter? After all this it finally started cranking again and couldnt get it to stop again. Now i do know that my daughter was sitting on the quad and im 99% sure she was pumping the throttle. Judging by how hard it was to start and the cloud of smoke when it did start and i revved on it a bit. Could the little extra force of a slight hydrolock cause the starter to crap out then come back to life?

Sorry for the long post guys but im at a loss and have a riding trip planned this sunday. Now im concerned i may be push starting it on the trail at some point.
 

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I'd say your theory is pretty accurate SR, do the ex's have a fuel tap or not? I'm not familiar with sports ATV's at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Fuel tap? Im guessing shut off? If im right then yes. But the bowl full of gas and the extremely large accelerator pump on my fcr floods it quick. Heck i cant pump it once without it flooding alittle bit. I had a chat with my daughter about it. But shes only 3 so im just gunna have to watch her closer when shes climbing on my quad.

But i think i new starter may be in my future. And oem prices are painful. Trying to figure what my best option is. With my stroker build planned for winter im kinda looking for upgraded starter options.
 

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neutral light was on and would sligtly dim when hitting the start button.
my thinking, you nailed it, that
slight hydrolock
... Toasted the starter, or brushes....glad ya got her fired up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
neutral light was on and would sligtly dim when hitting the start button.
my thinking, you nailed it, that
slight hydrolock
... Toasted the starter, or brushes....glad ya got her fired up.
How long would it take to do that kind of damage? Thats what is so weird. I bet it only cranked over 5 times. 30 seconds at most. Then dead and click. But once i got it running it turns over 100% normal now.
 

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Partial hydrolock caused by your FCR was my first thought too. You can take your starter motor apart for inspection, cleaning and relubing easily enough for piece of mind. The brushes are the primary wear items and brush length specs are usually listed in every Honda service manual.

I take every starter motor apart on the project bikes (the starter and shift motor on my own bike is opened up every winter) that I work on. Even though they rarely need any parts they all benefit from a good cleaning inside & out and get reassembled with fresh syn grease in the nose ball bearing/armature seal and rear bronze bushing. I wash the armatures, brush holder assemblies and field magnet housings using warm, soapy water (never use solvents on enameled armature windings) with a soft bottle brush, then rinse & blow them off, then a quick soaking down with 91% rubbing alcohol (to remove residual water trapped in the windings) and immediately blow them dry with compressed air.

Important tips: Leave the black graphite coatings alone on the commutator bars (don't polish them), thats a necessary dry lubricant buildup that minimizes brush arcing and reduces friction/heat. Reinstall the armature endplay/centering shims and washers stacks where they were found during teardown. Don't mix the nose shims & washers up with the rear shims. Those shim stacks center the armature inside the magnetic field and control armature endplay.

I just serviced and painted this 450 Foreman shift motor using synthetic grease in the bearings yesterday afternoon. Its ready for its next two decades of service. The 450 starter motor in the pic is new (the one on the bike was china that ran backwards) from D&B Electric. I took it apart as soon as it arrived for armature endplay correction/inspection & fresh syn greasing as well. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys for all the insite here. I have never been inside a starter motor. But it sounds very similar to motors i work with alot in the appliance repair field. Brushes and armeatures are things i see often. So i guess im gunna order some new brushes and rebuild this one. I can imagine being original from 05. And then me removing the auto decompression and upping the compression and bigger piston and all probably didnt make this starter have an easy life. I just hope it keeps starting as long as its not flooded like i know it was this time. Fingers crossed!
 

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I have never been inside a starter motor.
Wow! ^^ i figured your finger prints were all that bike.

Be sure to post pics, I'd like to see those brushes. (New and used)
 

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A useful tip, when inspecting the commutator it should be smooth and free of grooves and wear. If you have a lathe or the use of one it would be beneficial (in my opinion) to clean it up with a light abrasive. If it's worn badly it's possible to have them refurbished, probably not worth the money on such a small starter though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah i was gunna inspect it hopefully when i do the stroker build. Fingers crossed! LoL if the commutator or magnets are bad im just gunna replace it with a firepower starter on ebay. They have the best warranty of all of them i see. And they are still 200 dollars cheaper then oem. 316.00 for a oem starter is just insane!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well interesting developments in the quad randomly wont start saga. Battery took a complete and total crap. Wondering now if it was causing the shorting all along. Brandnew yuasa battery installed. Fingers crossed i dont have to push start it in the heat this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well my fingers crossed didnt work. Starter is done. Wouldnt start after unloading until i tapped the starter and boom cranked real slow and fired. Not to mention i snapped off my grab bar trying to yank it out of some real sticky mud.......expensive week ended today. Hope it can stop next week.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I’m on a forum for the 6.9 and 7.3 (pre powerstroke) idi diesels and those guys SWEAR by dbelectrical starters. I have a power master in mine but a db on the shelf as a spare. They make one for the 400ex too. https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...0-trx400ex-sport-trax-2005-2008-sportrax.html


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@Austin92

Wouldnt want to sell that db spare would you? They are sold out at the moment. I would gladly pay you what they cost so you can buy another when they get them back in stock. As long as its a new one you have as a spare that is.
 

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I’m on a forum for the 6.9 and 7.3 (pre powerstroke) idi diesels and those guys SWEAR by dbelectrical starters. I have a power master in mine but a db on the shelf as a spare. They make one for the 400ex too. https://www.dbelectrical.com/produc...0-trx400ex-sport-trax-2005-2008-sportrax.html


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@Austin92

Wouldnt want to sell that db spare would you? They are sold out at the moment. I would gladly pay you what they cost so you can buy another when they get them back in stock. As long as its a new one you have as a spare that is.


It’s a spare for the 6.9/7.3 diesels I have, not my 400ex, I’m sorry. I’ll still sell it to you but I doubt it’ll fit lol. Built to turn over 8 cylinders with 22.5:1 compression.
That sucks they’re out of stock, it was available when I posted that link


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