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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What I think I have is a 2004 TRX350 rancher FM (I haven't ran the numbers yet) I have owned this atv for better than 12 years. I bought it from a local dealer, it has been an awesome machine. Always ran very strong, pulling better than a few larger machines in the family. My son was a cycle kind of guy when he was young, never liked atv's until all his buddies started riding them. So once he hit the age I knew he could handle it, I let him start taking it riding with them. To make a long story short, it was sunk...several times. I put a new top end in it several years ago, but as you all know, it didn't last long, maybe a year....started smoking. Fast forward to last year, put another top end in it, with a new cylinder, got 6 months out of it, started smoking. This is when I found this forum and started reading that having being sunk, cases needed to be cracked, cleaned, rebuilt. Soooo this is where Im at, I've got the machine apart, plan on replacing a few things and doing some painting before It goes back together. My sons got his own 420 now so I can keep him off mine. I want the machine I used to have, reliable, dependable and strong.
Im confident in the wrenching needed, I am a mechanic by trade, I've rebuilt motors ranging from Nissan trucks to Farmall tractors.

Here's were we are as of last night......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would guess you are going to need a crankshaft , cause the connecting rod end has slack where the wrist pin rides , allowing the piston to rock and that is why the upper rebuilds are not lasting
Exactly what I was told by a guy at the local shop. Didn't know you could rebuild them though, thought they were a plug and play deal, and honestly was sweating the 400 bucks for just the crank and rod assembly.

I already have the service manual, printed it off, put it in a binder so I can have it at my finger tips. Thanks for the heads up on the shift drum, I'll be checking into that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info, I will be giving them a call as soon as I get the motor tore down, and the crank out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Got the motor washed before I started tearing into it. Well I didn't expect what I found once a got the cylinder off. Seems one of the circlips on the wrist pin broke, and allowed the wrist pin to cut into my cylinder wall. this explains the severe smoking just before I put it In the barn. I checked the side to side on the connecting rod to crank play and Im sure there is some tolerance there, but I didn't like the movement I seen. The plan is still to split the cases (I gotta find the broken circlip) clean everything out, check for wear on internal parts, I know I'm replacing the connecting rod (Mr. Crankshaft style), crank bearings, and the timing chain, slack adjuster, and cam bearings. I wont know what else till I get into it. I do know its going to need a new cylinder, no amount of boring is gonna fix this one. I got everything else soaking in the parts washer right now, looks like Im going to have plenty of time to clean everything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Im going to look at both options real careful, I do know partzilla crank/Rod assembly goes for like $396, the bottom end kit from Rocky mountain was like $490 something with the crank, and you still don't get the cam bearings or timing chain. I have found with several engines I have rebuilt over the years, sometimes its better (not always cheaper) to source individual parts and go OEM were you can, and stay away from cheap "kits" their cheap for a reason. I think if I can get the crank re-built for $200.00 or less than that is the most economic route, if its much more than that then I will go OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Tore into the side covers last night, the first time in a ATV motor, going nice and slow. Labeling each bag of bolts, brackets, photo's of the disassembly. trying to document all washers and shims in their respective position. What I can tell just by feeling it is the timing chain seems real loose, tensioner looked to be out a good ways. I got down to the flywheel, guess what I don't have, yep flywheel puller, sooooo I'll get one ordered today, I'll start on the other side and see how far I can get tonight. I know you guys know what the inside of a rancher motor looks like but I took these pictures to remind myself of where everything is when I put her back together. You guys yell out if you see something I need to pay special attention too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
Couple more......Oh yea, I put the wrist pin back in the rod, tested to see if their was any play, it has a considerable amount of up and down slack. I guess my first task will be getting the crank out and ordering a new one, or sending it out for re-build, until I get that part in, I can get some painting done, my cv axles cleaned and re-greased, new clamps. I got my new front differential seals in, I can get the front end back together and get the brakes bleed and adjusted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Thanks Shade....

Had a little time last night to tear into the other side, got that cover off, it had some milky grey what look to be real fine metal shavings in it, hopefully just from the cylinder wall damage. Its getting thoroughly cleaned anyway, I'll make sure to check all the gears in the transmission before I put everything back together. I have the oil cooler in the parts washer getting flushed out. Got everything off I could till I get my tools for the flywheel and clutch. They show to be here Friday so barring no problems, the next post will be of a completely broken down engine with a ready to ship (or buy) crank shaft.

Next few days will be spent cleaning and painting on the front end of the frame. I put new brake pads on the front and rear last year, and all that still looks good. Front wheel bearings and seals were replaced at the same time, all that still looks good. Im putting a 2" lift kit on it, I'll probably order that this weekend and paint all those brackets as Im installing everything. Looking to run 26" executioners on it. Buddy has some factory 12" Kawasaki brute force rims that look like Deltas, if the off set will work on the rear, I may try to run those, if not I'll keep the factory Hondas on the front and order some 12" deltas for the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yea, it has 26" Super Swamper vampires on it now, and they are heavy, but would go anywhere. My sons 420 has 28"Zillas on it now, they look great, and ride good, but Im looking for something a little different.

This is my sons 420 before the racks
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Good looking ride Jeep....After looking closer you know I actually like the Maxxis Zilla, But I read if you want a true 26" tire to run a 27" because they run small? I also read that if this is the route I want to go to look at 27x9x12 on the front 27x11x12 on the rear. I plan on running factory 12" rims, I'd love to find some 12" factory rears off a foreman or such to keep the stock look all the way around. CL's around here turns up squat. Ebay is about as bad as buying new. I have looked at the ITP deltas, that's the look Im after anyway. I got time before the tires will come into play but I like to plan far enough ahead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Got a little bit of painting done on the front end. Re-installed the front differential with new oil seals. I re-packed the front cv axles, and installed new clamps. I'm cleaning and painting the A-arm assemblies now, I'll get them reinstalled tomorrow. Install the brake lines, all the brake hardware, bleed everything. Once my lift kit is installed I can wrap up the front end and move on the the rear end. I got my flywheel puller in from Rocky mountain yesterday, I haven't got back on the engine yet, but I will today, hopefully before dark this thing is in a million pieces. I'll post pics once she's apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Couple more....
welcome to my world of atv repair !..lol. I see you got the front differential oil seals installed facing the correct way !.
Lol you know I looked at it first and thought it went the other way...

Any way Guess what I found....yep the broken circlip. I thought it was going to be like a needle in a hay stack but nope, it was laying right on top of the bottom oil screen. I knew I put the dam thing in the piston Lol. Anyway, cases are split, other than some dirt, and the broken circlip, nothing major to report. All the transmission gears look good, bearings look fine. Sooooo I think I will get a quote from Mr.Crankshaft tomorrow, then either get it in the mail, or order OEM. Either way im done with the motor till I get some parts in here. looking at the bearings, I really don't see a problem re-using any of them, would you replace them if you really didn't think they needed it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I see you did some polishing on the front pumpkin what polish (method) did you use ?
Sorry for the late response, been on vacation all week. I used easy Off on it first, what that didn't take off, I used my dremel tool with a stainless cup brush. I didn't go overboard, figured its only going to get dirty again.

Front end is back together, brakes are bleed, and adjusted. Got the wheels back on for now, started on the rear end. Hope to get it all cleaned and painted before the end of the week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
I got another issue. I've been doing some welding for a guy and he see's the rancher in pieces and said 'I got a 2000 Foreman S 4X4 I'LL swap you for the welding labor. My first thought is its a turd...He claims he got it as a package deal at an auction with a Rancher. I told him I'd come look at it. Well I went up yesterday and low and behold, it is a turd, but a good running, no smoking, no grinding turd. It is rough to say the least but runs surprisingly well for its cosmetic condition. Somebody abused the hell out of this thing and it continues to put out. I took it, got it home and me and my grandson spent the day riding it around the farm. If I can salvage it, I will keep it. I've always liked the square faced foreman's, plus I hear they like the ranchers are dam near bullet proof.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Hell yea! I would say that's a good deal depending on how much welding labor you have with him.
Be careful riding it around with those mismatched tire sizes.
Also you'll love those foot guards. I have the same ones on my rancher and they are awesome!
If I had to guess I would say I've got $300 worth of Labor in it. Yea, I've got the mate to the other tire in the barn, I'm going to put it on this evening before I go any further. I don't want to get side tracked working on the foreman to much and not the rancher. I've been in 2 projects at once before, and they both move slow if any at all. I'll leave the foreman be until the rancher is finished then tear the foreman down.
 
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