After sitting for years with rotting fuel in it, the carb will require a lot more work to clear it than spraying it down. It probably does not need any major parts, but will require a very thorough multi-day
cleaning session. Berrymans Chem-dip in the 3 quart can might help. Disassemble the carb body completely (except for the throttle plate & shaft), all jets, rubber and plastic parts, etc. must be removed from the casting. Then submerge the castings and other metal parts in the Berrymans for a couple days, turning/stirring them at least twice to insure that the solvent reaches every tiny passage.
After a couple days in the soak, remove the parts and blow compressed air through every passage, in all directions, where its possible to reach with your air nozzle. You can dip the carb casting a few times while you are blowing it out to help flush out the loosened, softened junk. Rinse well with water when you're done and blow through everything again until its dry. Then, using a spray can of Berrymans, squirt solvent through every passage using the supplied red tube attached to the spray head to verify that solvent flows out through every passage and no plugging remains.
Sometimes ya gotta use pipe cleaners, tiny brushes etc., as @Goober
suggests, to get all of the junk out that is jamming up the passages. Search for his carb threads... you'll find lotsa great instruction and lotsa great pics.
Bottom line: Cleaning carbs is tedious, demanding, time-consuming work. It takes a lot of effort (& luck) to be successful 100% of the time. Do your best, be patient, be thorough, and you'll win 99% of the time on your 1st attempt. Some carbs will require several attempts though... so don't be discouraged when that happens... just do it again... work smarter, work harder.
The best advice you'll ever get concerning carbs is:
Read, understand, follow the service manual disassembly, reassembly and setup steps word-for-word all of the way out to the last instructive paragraph. Make sure you get all of the tiny rubber parts back in there, and back in the proper order too. The manual is your best friend... if you need new rubber parts a genuine Shindy kit (or OEM) can be purchased.
Let us know if we can help you.