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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've got a Rancher 350 ES not shifting. It sat for 5 years but shifted previously.
Brand new battery at full charge 13.5 volts
I've removed the shift motor and it doesn't spin or make noise. Acts like it has no power.
No codes because 01-03 doesn't do codes
All fuses good and bike manually shifts.
Neutral on dash and indicates correct gear when manually shifted.
Speed shows zero on dash
Bike does not idle too high to shift

Can anyone walk me through testing? I have a meter but not good at using it if someone can help explain testing for dummy's lol
 

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either a bad fuse ?, or bad ecu ?. also, check to see if your getting power to the push button on the bars ?.
 

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I'm going to check the power at the buttons tomorrow. Fuses are good. i hope it not the ecu lol
Thanks Shade I'll report back.
your welcome. yeah, power goes to push buttons, then to shift motor. if your not getting power to the push buttons ?, then it's a bad ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I got a test light and stabbed both the white and the black wires because I don't know which is suppose to have power but neither wires do at neither button while pressed or not pressed with key on.
Is there maybe one more test I can do before ordering such and expensive part?
(This is not the correct way to test because I learned later there is only 5 volts at these wires... a test light needs 12 volts)
 

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Hi: Unplug the small connector on the ECU -- with the key on place the red meter lead on the R/Y wire in the connector and the black lead on green wire in the connector -- you have 12 VDC

The shift up/dn button only has 5 VDC on it which comes from the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
In doing my best to follow the flow chart I've gone to the next step but please review my images that I've done it correctly. I've measured the voltage at the angle sensor next and have almost 5 volts which I believe is in range with the red/black and blue/green wires.
The next test would be resistance on the flow chart but I'm a lil lost there.
(Got to post 31 on this thread for a resistance test for a faulty angle sensor)
 

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Hi: When to applied 12 Volts to the motor you do at the small connector on the ECU with not check at that connector Orange is + and G/Bu is -

To check for 5 VDC from the ECM to the up/dn switch you can check for 5VDC at Bl/R wire on 10P or on the angle sensor which ever is easier.
See Dia.

You can also check for continuity for the up/dn switch -- unplug the large connector at the ECU --
Using the ohms scale check the Bl/R to the W/Bu when pushing on the up button should have continuity and then continuity on the Bl/R to W/Y when pushing on the down button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
On the first test connecting wires at the ECU the motor spins as shown.

On the second test I have 5 volts going to the angle sensor and I do have 5 volts on the bl/r wire on the 10p with red lead on pin and black lead grounded to bike as shown.

On the third test if I did it right it climbs to .5 ohms continuously pressing the up button.
 

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Hi: Will the Shift motor spin with everything connected up with the motor not in place?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I do not have 5 volts at the 2p going to the shift motor with everything connected and the up button pushed. Does that mean anything?
We know I have 12 volts going into the computer and we know I have 5 volts coming out of the computer to the angle sensor......so is it safe to say the computer is doing its job but maybe the angle sensor isn't since it doesn't have power to the motor?
 

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Did I do I the 10p test right by red lead to bl/r wire and black lead grounded to bike?
No -- Connect 10P together -- then unplug the big connector on the ECM
With you meter on the ohms scale check for continuity.

Leave one meter lead on Bl/R wire in the ECM connector and the other lead on the W/Bu wire in the same connector push the up button -- should read continuity.

Leave one meter lead on Bl/R wire in the ECM connector and the other lead on the W/Y wire in the same connector push the down button -- should read continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That test wasn't the one I was talking about but I still get .4or .5 ohms on the up and down buttons.
Do you think computer or angle sensor?
 

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In your post #7 can you stick a straight pin in each wire of one of the buttons and joint pins with a jumper -- see if the motor spins (make sure all connector are together)
 
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