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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Actual problem is very little or no pedal (lever). The brakes with stop the drum if you turn it by hand but not the bike. The master cylinder is from a known good bike with good brakes, hoses are in good condition, new shoes, and wheel cylinder aren't leaking or frozen. The shoes are adjusted, and do move with the drums off. Brakes are bled with dot 3 fluid but still no solid brake lever i'm lost :confused:

Any ideas guys? i'll try anything at this point.
 

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They may still have a air bubble, or you just need to adjust the brakes more.
Yeah, I agree with Pain. You said the shoes moved with the drum off, when you hit them. If you hit the brakes with the drum off, the wheel cylinders may have come out too much and let air into the system. Make sure they're adjusted up until you can feel a slight amount of drag on the drums without the brakes on, then just barely back the adjuster back off. You want the brake shoes to almost be touching the drum. It wouldn't hurt if you could feel the drum touching the shoes when you turn the drum by hand, just make sure it's not holding the drum and the drum is still turning free. Also, try to adjust the adjusters out evenly on each side, because you don't want to have just the front or just the back shoe hitting the drum. You want both to hit at the same time. If you don't adjust them out evenly, it makes it harder to bleed the brakes and get a full pedal or lever. If adjusting them up like I said doesn't get a full pedal, then you will have to bleed them.
 

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what he ^^^^^^^^^ said !..lol..make sure you bleed allllll the air out..the smallest air bubble..well..burst your bubble..lmao.
 

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Shadetree, can you believe I typed that much without posting even one picture? LOL.
 

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· Premium Member
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· Premium Member
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23,587 Posts

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38,589 Posts

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Intersting enough it was a front bearing problem, the front wheel bearings were so worn they were coming loose from the hub when the breaks were applied thus not allowing a good drum to shoe application. The correct fix is to replace the backing plates and press-in new bearings to allow the outer race not to retract and pulling out the drum. The cheap fix is to JB weld the outer race to the backing plate (not recommended but thats what I did). :lifting:
 
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