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Wheeler13

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  • Manny ·
    If you keep blowing that 30A fuse there has to be a short somewhere in that part of the wiring harness. trace that wire and see if you find any places where the wires could have rubbed/vibrated down to bare wire causing you to pop that fuse.
    Dan G ·
    Now your on to something! That 30 amp is most likely the main fuse. If the machine functions fine for a little while with no problems, then act up once it blows the fuse, everything is mechanically A-ok besides whatever is overloading the fuse. Once we figure that out you should be fixed.

    You checked/cleaned all the ground connections right? Including the one on the engine/starter area? I wish you had someone local you could try swapping reg/rec. with. Sometimes they test fine and are still the culprit...

    Other than that this is a little out of my league, lol. After following through the manual, then checking the most common problems, if I still can't find the issue like were having now then I hit up toodeep or one of the others...

    Have you shot him a pm on this update yet? He may have an idea or two to try out...
    Dan G ·
    Hey wheeler! Glad things are going well! I figured you'd be busy with the new addition so waited to hear back from ya...
    Things are pretty good here, busy as all heck with school and work but it should slow down soon...
    Dan G ·
    lol, no problem! I'm on here for the same reason, I like hanging out and shooting the breeze with you guys. I keep a crew cut also... I don't care for hair brushes or hair conditioner... plus, the helmet fits better, lol.

    Electrical is honestly my weakest point, although I know just enough to get by and (usually) solve these types of problems. If continuity is questionable... it would make sense to me that it is an intermittent problem, since it sometimes seems to work and other times acts up on you. But, thats just a theory too, lol.

    My buddy posted a thread on our forum about how to clean a shift motor since it would be easier then trying to copy paste it here...

    If you would like to sign up over there and talk to toodeep (the master mechanic of hondas! ) it may be more helpful? I'm about plum out of ideas unfortunetely. I will take a look at the manual today and reread that section to see if I can think of something.
    Dan G ·
    Mornin' wheeler! The wires being damp should not have an effect unless the insulator is cracked and allowing it to short/ground out. If it didn't clear up once you patched the damaged section and dried it out, then that wasn't the problem....

    I will get back to you on the other part! I'll ask him and let you know, and take a look in the manual.

    That course must have been rough! I'm looking forward to the alarm not going off tomorrow, lol.
    stu5969 ·
    Its a good chance it is as water in the connectors can make them short out onto one another as it conducts electricity across the terminals. I would get some CRC electrical cleaner and a small screwdriver and some compressed air and clean those out well..then dieelectric grease those damp connectors. At that point I would clear all codes and see what happens. It would be a good idea to take off the battery leads when cleaning the connectors to make sure you don't make a short. Your ECM is new so that is what I would try next...let me know how you make out,,,Stu
    Dan G ·
    Ah no, just craming a lot of college classes/work into only three days, lol. Doing the engineering science course and the work load is kicking my hind end already... just an adjustment I suppose, lol.

    I forwarded our convo to my friend and heres what his reply was.

    When he initialized it did the control motor sound smooth or kind of rough? A lot of the problems I have with the 400FA are from just a dirty control motor. You just take them apart, clean them and good to go again. Did he remove the angle sensor at any time? If so they are preloaded so make sure that was done. It wouldn't hurt to get the battery load tested (or could run with a booster pack on the machine) just to rule out the battery. They are touchy with voltage.
    stu5969 ·
    Hi Wheeler, I just found your message, I've been off for a couple of days. I've never owned at AT before personally,,just an ES. If you've cleared your codes and installed a new ECM and you still getting the same code I would assume a short also. I would start by unplugging all connectors and getting a tube of dielectric grease and put it in all electrical connectors. I would also make sure the battery is at a full charge with a trickle charger. I would trace all wiring and look for a damaged wire,,or wet connection first. If you haven't downloaded it yet go to our manual section and find your machine. Type in hondaatvforums.net to unlock the file. It will give you info on your codes and possible causes and what your OHM ranges are for each component. i wish you luck and that I could be of more help,,let me know how you make out or have any issues..ttyl
    Dan G ·
    Hey wheeler, I just got in from a 10 hour day of college so my brain is burnt, lol... What was I thinking cramming it all into three days... Anyways I will brainstorm some more and still waiting to hear back from my friend. Yeah, I wish it was as simple as the battery/charging system too, lol
    Dan G ·
    lol, no problem, the visitor messages are just as well. What voltage are you reading at the battery? And do you have another bike that you could swap batteries with? They are pretty sensitive to voltage drops and will give a lot of trouble and throw meaningless codes if it starts losing juice or not charging like it should... If you could grab a multimeter on the 20v setting, and alligator clip it to the battery terminals and take it for a spin. Should have 12-13 volts when the engine is not running and 14 or so when running. If it is fluctuating a lot or not making enough power... we may have a simple fix? Something to check anyways...
    RancherGuyy ·
    From the situation you are in it sounds like a connection may have got wet. Let it dry out and see if the problem persists...if it doesn't after it has dried out I would disconnect all electrical connections and put some dielectric grease on the contacts to waterproof them and allow them to make better contact.

    I had the code flashing 5 times, and it turned out that my shifting motor was bad and had to install a new one.
    Wheeler13 ·
    Oh crap!! I just figured out what "PM" means! Sorry for the hassle of u having to read it all from visitor messages. I've never did a pm…lol
    Dan G ·
    If you can do me a favor, and PM a full recap of this problem, from the bitter beginning to where you are now, include all details about the codes it threw and parts replaced/things tested, I will look into the service manual and see if I can make sense of it. I will also forward it to one of my friends on another forum that is a honda dealer/technician. Maybe with 3 brains we can get to the bottom of it, lol.
    Dan G ·
    Hey Wheeler, I'll help anyway I can. From what you are saying, it does sound like a possible short or crossed wire to me, since it is an intermittent problem (ran fine for a bit, then began throwing a code). However, these machines are known to be headaches as far as wiring problems go, lol. I would take all the plastics off like you have, and check every single connection for corrosion. If they look good, hit them with some contact cleaner and a dab of dielectric grease anyways. Once all the connections (every last single one from sensors to quick disconnects to ecm to fuse block.... everything) that rules out the connections. Then it is either an actual crossed wire in the harness, which you will honestly never probably find. Or, a bad electronic part/sensor.
    Manny ·
    Wheeler13, im currently away from home, and out of service. I will not be available until october, i would get in touch with stu5969 or DanG. Those two are very resourceful with very little BS and will steer you in the right direction. sorry i cannot help anymore, but im not even sure if i will have enough service to send this message.

    good luck!
    kentco ·
    Wheeler, Sorry, I've been away from the computer for a bit. I'm wondering if you have a wiring problem somewhere. Is there any possibility that your wiring could have gotten wet or damaged?
    Kent
    Manny ·
    Ive heard of guys only being charged $40 to get a full cylinder bore and hone. it all depends on the area i guess.

    You could easily save $500 by doing the labor yourself.
    Wheeler13 ·
    Man like I said....hell I'm not even sure what a strut sounds like!! Lol But like u said its probably something simple like the hub maybe even a bearing
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