1995 TRX300FW Electrical & Brake Issue - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Question 1995 TRX300FW Electrical & Brake Issue

Hey guys,
2 quick issues i want a second opinion on.

1)
My neutral light is having some issues. Recently its been blinking on/off randomly, or staying off all together. I know form other posts, that if it was off permanently, i would not be able to use the electric start (or so others say) but i still can. I tried wiggling the connection in the head unit and also unplugging and re plugging the connectors on the engine next to the right side foot brake (what i understand to be the reverse, neutral, and oil temp lines).
I recorded it going nuts, check the video.

No avail, Any ideas?




2)
I replaced my front brakes with a aftermarket disk brake kit (from SUPERATV) and have never gotten it to work super well over the past year. I have done the anti-air bleeding maintenance about 5 times now (once every few months) and i still have a very mushy brake, even sometimes barely engaging at all until i pump it like 5-8 times.

I am not super knowledgeable with now fluid based brakes work, but as far as i can tell, i have no leaks (ever time i re-bleed it, i never have missing fluid) and there is no-longer any air in the system (i never get air coming out when i bleed it to try to improve this issue).

Do you guys think i need to just replace my whole handlebar brake unit? It is over 20 years old now, maybe the piston is just shot and cant hold the pressure properly?

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As always, thanks guys!

1994 TRX300fw 4x4 "Scar"

Last edited by Orvis25; 07-22-2019 at 05:53 PM.
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 06:03 PM
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loose connector at switch ?, some where from bulb to switch ?, or at switch ?. faulty alarm unit ?. bad bulb ?. as for the disk brakes ?. I dont use super atv kits..i dont trust them !. could very well be a worn out master cylinder piston in the bore ?. or air trapped some where in the line ?. or your simply not bleeding the brakes right ?. p.s. also could have a diode going out ?.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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loose connector at switch ?, some where from bulb to switch ?, or at switch ?. faulty alarm unit ?. bad bulb ?. as for the disk brakes ?. I dont use super atv kits..i dont trust them !. could very well be a worn out master cylinder piston in the bore ?. or air trapped some where in the line ?. or your simply not bleeding the brakes right ?. p.s. also could have a diode going out ?.
I decided to just replace the whole master cylinder unit with a aftermarket one (bought one for $18 shipped, most likely china no-name). I will report back whether that fixes it or not when it comes in and is installed.

Anyone else on the wired neutral light issue?
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:32 PM
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I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem
Thanks for the recommendation on the light, think i will check the bulb tomorrow, if thatch not it, probably a far more serious issue unfortunately.

Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orvis25 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I think air in top of the system —very common—tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom—use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light—if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem
Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.
No just rotate it hard left should do it. You might have air in the crook at the top

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Orvis25 View Post
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Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I think air in top of the system –very common–tough to push air out when the bubbles rise. Open the mc and take the little rubber puck out of the bottom–use a flat narrow screwdriver. Position the handlebar so the master cylinder is directly above the brake hose. Jiggle the brake lever you’ll see tiny bubbles rise into the mc. 10-15 minutes orta do it.

Neutral light–if the rig is starting and running right, replace the indicator bulb. Or the prongs are dirty or spread out too wide. Take a tiny pick and straighten them out

You can buy a rebuild kit for the mc; I don’t like buying non-oem if i can buy oem
Do you mean like unbolt it from the handlebar to get it above the brake hose? the master cylinder is already the highest point in the system as it is mounted on the handlebar, i cant make it any higher unless i un-bolt it and like hold it in my hand at an elevated position.
i considered a rebuild kit, but they are more expensive than just buying an entirely new unit and swamping it out. May not be OEM, but i figure with such a basic technology, they cant mess it up, its going to work or its not.
No just rotate it hard left should do it. You might have air in the crook at the top
AH, ok >.<

I was going to say, dam that an odd method.

I already did that, even going as far as parking my atv on an angled slope so the brake MS was even higher up. That said, i never removed that rubber bit, i will try that today.

I also bought a vacuum brake bleeder today for $20 shipped, older hand pump one (not the air compressor ones). When ,my new MS gets in, i am a swap to it if this is not fixed and just vacuum the whole system.
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:03 PM
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Let us know what you find out.
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 01:41 PM
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It’s possible your mc piston seal is worn given the age

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 07-23-2019, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Let us know what you find out.
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It’s possible your mc piston seal is worn given the age
OK, so small update:

Problem 1)
FIXED!
I took the neutral bulb out and it was corroded as heck. I flushed the socket out with some WD-40, and scraped the contacts with a screwdriver the best i could, re-flushed again and put a new bulb in, boom, worked.
Checked the other 2 bulbs to be safe, they were clean.
IDK what happened with the neutral that that happened other than some water got in it

Problem 2)
As for the MS, I did that trick again with putting the MS above the hose (parked on a hill, right side in high) and pumped the brake for about 10 minutes straight (HAND CRAMP!!!!!), re-tried the brake (all assembled) while going 15mph or so, no improvement, still need to pump it 3+ times to even get it to engage.
I think the MS is just worn out, probably never replaced by the PO.
When i bought it, the front brakes were shot and half-locked, so I did this SuperATV kit instead of re-building, never tested them original. The PO did not take very well care of this thing (why I gave her the name "Scar", she shows her battle scars but keeps on trucking)

I will report back when my non-OEM one comes in, and i install it (and test).

1994 TRX300fw 4x4 "Scar"

Last edited by Orvis25; 07-23-2019 at 04:05 PM. Reason: Clarification
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