Stripped out oil drain... now what? - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Angry Stripped out oil drain... now what?

88 TRX300FW

Figures. New tires, new wheels, new shift and centrifugal clutches, new master cylinder, and a complete rear end reseal/bearing and rear brake kits in the mail. Finished the clutches today, rode it for about 45 mins. Everything was working perfectly.

Get back and decide to recheck the rear diff fluid, as it's leaking some (hence the reseal kit). Notice a growing pool of oil forming. Well crap!! Investigation resulted in discovering there were no threads left in the oil drain hole. I don't know if I cross threaded it (don't think I did), or if they were just tired after 31 years. If I'd wanted to, I could have pulled the bolt out without even unscrewing it.

3 hours of driving to every auto parts store resulted in discovering there are no M12 1.50 pitch oversize drain bolts to be had. Thought about heli-coiling it, but at $75 I decided to tap it to M14 instead. All went well, till I realized 1/2 the drain hole has a raised piece that is exactly the size for a stock M12 bolt, and the M14 is a tad too wide to screw down flush. Ok, so got out the dremel and ground that down.

Still leaking. I'm pretty sure I just couldn't get it flat enough and it's still not sitting flush. Leaks even with one of those plastic washer do-dads. I'm still googling for ideas, but currently about the only option I see is to pull the engine and get a perfectly flat area for the M14 to seat. But thought I'd see if any of you had any ideas.

I might try some of those rubber universal thingies as a stop-gap measure for now. I really need this running. Also, my side cover started leaking as well, don't know why it took it 6 hours to start, but it just started leaking while I was working on drain plug. The gasket got torn due to my fan, I used some gasket maker where the tear was, but seems it didn't hold. So that's on the list now too.

1988 TRX300FW Fourtrax
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 10:02 PM
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your not the first. and it has been discussed here many times before, and different ways to fix it.
i cant point you to the thread, but someone will soon.
at the moment, i am thinking of an expansion plug. when you put it in and tighten it, the rubber expands..
or weld an aluminum, thick washer, to the bottom, and tap it..

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Last edited by LedFTed; 07-11-2019 at 10:05 PM.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by doonze View Post
88 TRX300FW

Figures. New tires, new wheels, new shift and centrifugal clutches, new master cylinder, and a complete rear end reseal/bearing and rear brake kits in the mail. Finished the clutches today, rode it for about 45 mins. Everything was working perfectly.

Get back and decide to recheck the rear diff fluid, as it's leaking some (hence the reseal kit). Notice a growing pool of oil forming. Well crap!! Investigation resulted in discovering there were no threads left in the oil drain hole. I don't know if I cross threaded it (don't think I did), or if they were just tired after 31 years. If I'd wanted to, I could have pulled the bolt out without even unscrewing it.

3 hours of driving to every auto parts store resulted in discovering there are no M12 1.50 pitch oversize drain bolts to be had. Thought about heli-coiling it, but at $75 I decided to tap it to M14 instead. All went well, till I realized 1/2 the drain hole has a raised piece that is exactly the size for a stock M12 bolt, and the M14 is a tad too wide to screw down flush. Ok, so got out the dremel and ground that down.

Still leaking. I'm pretty sure I just couldn't get it flat enough and it's still not sitting flush. Leaks even with one of those plastic washer do-dads. I'm still googling for ideas, but currently about the only option I see is to pull the engine and get a perfectly flat area for the M14 to seat. But thought I'd see if any of you had any ideas.

I might try some of those rubber universal thingies as a stop-gap measure for now. I really need this running. Also, my side cover started leaking as well, don't know why it took it 6 hours to start, but it just started leaking while I was working on drain plug. The gasket got torn due to my fan, I used some gasket maker where the tear was, but seems it didn't hold. So that's on the list now too.
Haven't had to do a 300 yet, but according to Toodeep you can tap it out to 14MM and use a stock Honda plug that has the same 17MM head on it.

https://www.hondaforeman.com/130-for...ml#post3072250

Have pics of what yours is hitting?

I used that plug and a 14MM tap to do my father in laws 06 Rubicon a few weeks ago. Worked fine on that one.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
i am thinking of an expansion plug. when you put it in and tighten it, the rubber expands..
Eh, MAYBE for a temp fix.....
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by doonze View Post
88 TRX300FW

Figures. New tires, new wheels, new shift and centrifugal clutches, new master cylinder, and a complete rear end reseal/bearing and rear brake kits in the mail. Finished the clutches today, rode it for about 45 mins. Everything was working perfectly.

Get back and decide to recheck the rear diff fluid, as it's leaking some (hence the reseal kit). Notice a growing pool of oil forming. Well crap!! Investigation resulted in discovering there were no threads left in the oil drain hole. I don't know if I cross threaded it (don't think I did), or if they were just tired after 31 years. If I'd wanted to, I could have pulled the bolt out without even unscrewing it.

3 hours of driving to every auto parts store resulted in discovering there are no M12 1.50 pitch oversize drain bolts to be had. Thought about heli-coiling it, but at $75 I decided to tap it to M14 instead. All went well, till I realized 1/2 the drain hole has a raised piece that is exactly the size for a stock M12 bolt, and the M14 is a tad too wide to screw down flush. Ok, so got out the dremel and ground that down.

Still leaking. I'm pretty sure I just couldn't get it flat enough and it's still not sitting flush. Leaks even with one of those plastic washer do-dads. I'm still googling for ideas, but currently about the only option I see is to pull the engine and get a perfectly flat area for the M14 to seat. But thought I'd see if any of you had any ideas.

I might try some of those rubber universal thingies as a stop-gap measure for now. I really need this running. Also, my side cover started leaking as well, don't know why it took it 6 hours to start, but it just started leaking while I was working on drain plug. The gasket got torn due to my fan, I used some gasket maker where the tear was, but seems it didn't hold. So that's on the list now too.
Haven't had to do a 300 yet, but according to Toodeep you can tap it out to 14MM and use a stock Honda plug that has the same 17MM head on it.

https://www.hondaforeman.com/130-for...ml#post3072250

Have pics of what yours is hitting?

I used that plug and a 14MM tap to do my father in laws 06 Rubicon a few weeks ago. Worked fine on that one.

CRAP, Honda didn't volunteer that option when I called them! Wish I'd know, as I tapped it to M14 1.25 not 1.5. (Only tap I could find at the auto parts store). I think for now I'm going to teflon tape the plug. And I'm going to order some type of M14 1.25 threaded bung. Then JB weld it or something for a long term fix. But today I'm pulling the side cover AGAIN, pull the paper gasket off, and use gasket maker instead. I wasn't impressed with the paper gasket anyway.

Thanks for the input!

1988 TRX300FW Fourtrax
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-13-2019, 12:47 AM Thread Starter
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Have pics of what yours is hitting?
Well, it's ground off now, mostly. I don't have a pic, but here's a pic of one form a guy on here who's got worse problems than I do! You can see the 1/4 moon raised piece to the right of what used to be his drain hole, now it's just his hole.

Stripped out oil drain... now what?-engine-006-800x600-.jpg

In other news, I discovered why my side cover was leaking:

Stripped out oil drain... now what?-20190712_164509.jpg

Stripped out oil drain... now what?-20190712_164527.jpg

So for my second PSA of the day, be careful the reverse lockout spring doesn't somehow come loose and start poking out the bottom of your case. And if it does, don't fully tighten your side cover before noticing. Otherwise this happens, and your case will leak. Being on the bottom, I only noticed as the last thing I was doing was to hook up the reverse lockout cable, and I noticed there was no resistance.

I'm currently in the 24 hour "set up" period of my gasket maker gasket, but the good thing about going the "make it yourself" route, is the gasket maker should have no problems sealing this. I could have just used a little bit on the front and back of a proper gasket, but I didn't feel like waiting for one to ship. I feel pretty confident this will work.

I'll know tomorrow if my Teflon tape and gasket maker tricks worked. I'll post back up with the results.
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1988 TRX300FW Fourtrax
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, so last update for now. Everything is holding, no more leaks. My current fix was teflon plumbers tape around the threads and gasket maker around the bolt washer area. No idea if it was one or both that did it, but it's not leaking. If I had to do it over again, I would have tapped it out to M14 1.75 and bought the M14 oil drain bolt from Honda that was posted above.

I don't want to have to wrap the bolt and use gasket maker every time I change the oil. So I'm likely going to do one of the "bolts within a bolt" setups at my next oil change, clean the area really well of oil, teflon the threads and JB weld the thing to the bottom of the engine. It's tucked up in the frame in such a way I'm not worried about it sticking out some. As long as it doesn't end up sticking out past the skidplate/frame brace there. If it does, then I'll have to go with some sort of quick connect. But those are $$$.

I'll wrap up this post once I get my final solution.

1988 TRX300FW Fourtrax
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 01:46 PM
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This is one of those jobs where if it's not repaired properly it's going to cost you big bucks!

My solution would be to weld a 1/2 piece of aluminium over the existing drain and put your new thread and drain plug into that.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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This is one of those jobs where if it's not repaired properly it's going to cost you big bucks!

My solution would be to weld a 1/2 piece of aluminium over the existing drain and put your new thread and drain plug into that.
I would, if I could weld aluminum. Or at all. Yeah, yeah, I'm one of those car guys who never learned to weld. Always meant to get around to it, but I never had anyone in my family who welded. My boss does, but he's not great at it. He's about the only person I know who even tries.

It's on the list. But I doubt I'll ever learn TIG.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 03:02 PM
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first mistake is getting in too much of a hurry , rushing your work !. your not paying attention to what and how things go together ?, then this leads to the reverse spring popping down from the engine case, and causing your oil leak. I see this a lot, been there, done that..lol. slow and steady ALWAYS wins the repair race !.
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