Stripped out oil drain... now what? - Page 2 - Honda ATV Forum
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 05:58 AM
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should you decide to get it welded, which i think is the best choice so far..
there are plenty of machine shops, people that do welding, for a living, and other resources, in my area, but i have to ask around more lately then i did in the past, to find these places. i got friends that help me find people, or places. the grapevine...
just saying.

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
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"sometimes, when drinking 5 or 6 bud's, nipping JB, Jim Beam, cinnamon in between, i start thinking sideways,,i have too though, ta match the way i walk" ed
"those that dont study history, are doomed to repeat it"
"I HOPE i aint wrote nutting else stupid" "funniest comedy dont need curse words" "teach how to think, not what to" ed
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 04:57 PM
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How low is the oil temp sensor in the right side case cover of a 300FW? I'm thinking if it is low enough, JB weld the oil drain plug in place, and do your oil draining out the oil temp sensor hole. Heck, lean it to the right side a tad when draining to get the hole even lower.

Edit: I just did some google image searching of the right crankcase covers. The oil temp sensor is pretty low, just above the oil screen and looks very accessible. That's what I'd do if this were mine and I didn't have access to good aluminum welding or didn't want to split the cases....
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2004 TRX400FA (Rancher 400AT)
MotionPro twist throttle kit
12" handlebar mounted light bar
rear rack wheelchair carrier
Cycle Country 48" plow w/ KFI hybrid mount
Champion 3000 lb winch w/ synthetic rope
23" Titan 489's all around (saving clutch)

2011 Grizzly 450 EPS

Others in the family: '04 TRX250TE, '85 TRX250 Utility (X2), '05 TRX90, '06 TRX500FA, '95 TRX400FW,' 88 TRX125

Last edited by wheelsquad; 07-15-2019 at 05:04 PM.
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 05:40 PM
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maybe it was the synthetic oil that stripped it out , I used synthetic one time and the engine blew up , I ain't lying !!!
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 05:47 PM
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there is a special plug for draining a transmission pan , it has a nut on the inside to sandwich the pan after drilling a hole , you could throw the nut away and use CRC MinuteMend and basically glue that plug into the hole , cut the length to the thickness of the case at the drain hole , the middle of the plug comes out -------you could do the same thing with a bushing and a plug
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 06:32 PM
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I've never tried this, but when i FIRST started spinning wrenches @ johnnys, (way back) i witnessed little johnny change the oil in a 2wd 300 (half way stripped plug) and simply, he took the filter cover off and filter out, stuck a catch pan under the bike and started it up @ idol only, worked perfectly, she pumped MOST of oil out, the bike is still runs perfectly to this day. More then one way to skin a cat, but this one i don't think I'd try.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishfiles View Post
maybe it was the synthetic oil that stripped it out , I used synthetic one time and the engine blew up , I ain't lying !!!
i gotta add a tale to this also. the 5HP boat motor, 50's johnson, had been running on regular oil 30w, in the gas, for many years, the owner told me. so, i used regular oil. it ran good but smoked, and fumed. sooo, i get 2 cycle marine oil to mix with the gas.. the first time out it blew the engine. cracked up a piston skirt, and locked the engine. if i hadnt mixed the oil proper, i would not have been as mad as i was.
ya gotta know your limitation's.

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
hard to talk to morons. even more so, when related..
"ya should get 3 people ta smile or laugh every day" all will feel better
"sometimes, when drinking 5 or 6 bud's, nipping JB, Jim Beam, cinnamon in between, i start thinking sideways,,i have too though, ta match the way i walk" ed
"those that dont study history, are doomed to repeat it"
"I HOPE i aint wrote nutting else stupid" "funniest comedy dont need curse words" "teach how to think, not what to" ed
"Genius can be measured,not stupid" Albert Einstein
"when you get to old to learn, then what good are you" ed
i havent done friends list,if i do, R the rest not friends?
2000 450es TRX
2 grass hog 4x4s
sum humor adds up

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 07:24 PM
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Many times I seen after changing the oil in a automatic transmission , the transmission went out , could be coinensidence
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 06:24 AM
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Many times I seen after changing the oil in a automatic transmission , the transmission went out , could be coinensidence
Yep happens when the atf is left to get too old and too many deposits build up. New atf with its strong additives and detergent package breaks up those deposits rapidly, and send chunks into tight passageways and valves, etc.

I had a buddy who bought a Honda Accord with 125k miles one time, told me his tranny was acting rough. Checked his atf it was BLACK. Told him his tranny might make another 5-25k miles with atf like that, or he could gradually try to get new fluid in there. I said whatever you do, do NOT do a tranny flush or get out 100% of the old fluid and put in new fluid.

But I said to gradually get new fluid in there and get out the old deposits. Since his tranny pan had a drain bolt, doing half of the fluid at a time was easy. Did drain and fills once every 2 weeks, first 3 it kept coming out black. Shifting improved right away though. After 4 or 5 drain and fills the fluid started looking red.

That was 5 years ago and that tranny is shifting like new and still going strong.

@doonze I forgot that fishfiles had spoken highly of minute mend before. That could be used to put your M14 in there solid and then drain through the oil temp sensor port like I mentioned.

2004 TRX400FA (Rancher 400AT)
MotionPro twist throttle kit
12" handlebar mounted light bar
rear rack wheelchair carrier
Cycle Country 48" plow w/ KFI hybrid mount
Champion 3000 lb winch w/ synthetic rope
23" Titan 489's all around (saving clutch)

2011 Grizzly 450 EPS

Others in the family: '04 TRX250TE, '85 TRX250 Utility (X2), '05 TRX90, '06 TRX500FA, '95 TRX400FW,' 88 TRX125
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I've had many autos die after a flush or change. It's insane how often. Makes you never want to bother.

I think my bolt within a bolt idea is as good as any. Last time I tried to find someone to weld aluminum it was like trying to buy crack. It won't hurt anything to try, and if it doesn't work then I try something else. Any "real" solution at this point world require pulling the engine and grinding down that lip perfectly flat. That's a last resort as I don't have any help and a bad back. But I'll do it if it comes to that.

Cheap, easy, simple first. I'm not too keen on running it dry out the filter. And I don't see a current advantage to plugging it up and draining or the side of the case. While both would work, they seem more risky and more trouble than just installing a bolt with a smaller bolt inside it. Those are made for exactly this situation.

But great ideas guys if simple doesn't work!! One step at a time!

1988 TRX300FW Fourtrax
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 07-17-2019, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doonze View Post
Yeah, I've had many autos die after a flush or change. It's insane how often. Makes you never want to bother.

I think my bolt within a bolt idea is as good as any. Last time I tried to find someone to weld aluminum it was like trying to buy crack. It won't hurt anything to try, and if it doesn't work then I try something else. Any "real" solution at this point world require pulling the engine and grinding down that lip perfectly flat. That's a last resort as I don't have any help and a bad back. But I'll do it if it comes to that.

Cheap, easy, simple first. I'm not too keen on running it dry out the filter. And I don't see a current advantage to plugging it up and draining or the side of the case. While both would work, they seem more risky and more trouble than just installing a bolt with a smaller bolt inside it. Those are made for exactly this situation.

But great ideas guys if simple doesn't work!! One step at a time!
I'm surprised your bigger drain bolt with a sealing washer didn't seal. Is there space to remove a little extra from the lip? As long as you have a full circumference of flat area, could be pretty narrow but as long as it has a flat width for the sealing washer to push tight against, it should seal right up.

2004 TRX400FA (Rancher 400AT)
MotionPro twist throttle kit
12" handlebar mounted light bar
rear rack wheelchair carrier
Cycle Country 48" plow w/ KFI hybrid mount
Champion 3000 lb winch w/ synthetic rope
23" Titan 489's all around (saving clutch)

2011 Grizzly 450 EPS

Others in the family: '04 TRX250TE, '85 TRX250 Utility (X2), '05 TRX90, '06 TRX500FA, '95 TRX400FW,' 88 TRX125
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