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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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OK gonna rebuild my spare engine have some questions

I will start a new post here. Instead of buying a used bottom core, of which I sent one back already, I am gonna use my spare engine to build up. I firmly believe it has way fewer hours on it than the engine I pulled as the crankshaft is in wonderful shape, almost no connecting rod wobble and wrist pin hole tight. So here's where I am, the spare engine is all torn apart and split. I want to clean the old oil and whatever else from the halves and covers, I did buy some Dawn and it did a pretty good job but there are areas I can't get at to brush to loosen up. Can I just buy some engine degreaser to spray and wash out when loosened? How do you guys clean the engine halves? I am not worried about the outside so much just want to clean the worst mess off. That's where I'm starting then progress. The crank is removed and have to take the tranny gears out again also.
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 12:22 PM
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I don't stick to a recipe very often, so I use whatever I have on hand to clean up cases and parts. But I generally brush them with Super Clean (purple jug) and water mixed (using stiff plastic & small stainless brushes) to remove most of the dirt and grunge inside and out. Then rinse well, blow them dry and wash them again in mineral spirits before blowing them dry for assembly.

The internals usually clean up easily, so you can use whatever you have on hand that is cheap and plentiful to clean up most of those parts. I always use mineral spirits with a plastic brush on clutch parts to remove/flush out the old motor oil (farmers around here never heard of JASO MA and NEVER change oil in anything) from the frictions, then give 'em a bath in 91% rubbing alcohol before blowing them off and hanging them to completely dry. Soak those flushed clean clutch frictions in clean JASO MA motor oil before installation and coat every moving part with clean oil as you assemble them.

In this area we have red clay that stains the cases badly. To date I've found nothing that removes all of that... 'cept media blasting. And I'm too tight to spend money on that. So once the motors are back together I spray 'n wipe the cases down with alcohol, then tape them off and spray paint them.

Partzilla is a useful reference for putting all of the various bolt lengths back in where they belong, as each parts fiche lists the locations and lengths for all of the bolts (and dowels)... saves ya from accidentally putting a 28mm long bolt in the case where it calls for a 24mm bolt... then coming up one 28mm bolt short later on... an' don't remember where ya stabbed the wrong bolt. :-)

If any of y'all have any secrets to getting red clay outta porous aluminum cases, please share!


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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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I just got done removing all the gasket material from both engine halves. Then I bought a couple cans of Gunk and worked on one side of each half at a time. I sprayed heavily and did scrub with a brush and found some small foam touch up paint brushes that worked really well for the tight spots. Both halves cleaned up pretty well, the outsides didn't clean quite as well, especially the bottom. I did not remove bearings, when I got done I blew the whole area dry on both sides then put clean oil in the bearings. Except for one of them, which I dorked up, they all appear to be in good shape. They spin very freely both directions after I put some oil back in them. I don't think I need a wholesale bearing change except for the bad one. The SM does say to replace the crank bearings, if they spin freely is that necessary?


I have been going back and forth for a couple weeks trying to decide how I wanted to do this, but just said why get another bottom half and have more parts sitting around. So I know this is what you guys have been telling me to do as I will know there is nothing inside the engine to mess the top end up. I also figured the extra crank is in better shape than anything I have seen so why not use it, nice and tight....

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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Came out pretty well...should have taken a before and after...
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 04:33 PM
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I like to run taps in all the threaded holes , worth the trouble as there is always at least one hole that the threads are messed up in ----- blow out every oil journal and threaded hole , I like Part and Brake Cleaner first then compressed air
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 05:00 PM
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I'm a tightwad. I don't replace a bearing unless it needs to be replaced, or if its a motor thats been sunk or has high mileage I'll dump them. But I don't see many of those... if they look good dry (no races damage, rust or pitting) and feel good and tight oiled I run 'em.

I buy a new seal kit (Winderosa is cheap and the seals fit good) and a complete gasket kit every time. I prefer OEM valve seals over the valve seals that come with the gasket kits, so I usually buy those separate. The OEM head gasket is sometimes better quality too, depending on how much is spent on the gasket kit it seems.

You got it made with that good, tight crank and rod. Only other part ya might want to scrutinize is the oil pump. If yours looks good, has no deep scoring from trash and is still tighter than the specs allow, run it. If questionable, replace it. It sounds like you have everything covered though.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Found a Winderosa oil seal kit on Ebay for my engine, it has 6 seals so gonna order it.


I don't have my other engine torn apart yet, waiting until I am gonna start transferring parts. I will check the oil pump on the spare engine to see what it looks like.


I will stay with the bearings then except for the one I messed up. I have another on the front cover that is questionable also. I will see what it looks like after the good cleaning.



Tomorrow gonna clean old gaskets and do the Gunk cleaning on both the covers from the spare. I don't know what happened to that engine but the halves and covers look fine so will use them. Sure glad I took the old engine when I bought this.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 07:58 PM
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When you replace the seals in the cases, wipe the bores out good with some alcohol on a rag before driving new ones in. The seal in the rear cover for the emergency shifter shaft usually pushes in a bit too easily with a thumb... so I always smear a thin film of Ultra Black gasket maker on the outer surface of that seal to prevent a possible wicking oil leak around that seal in the future. The seal for the sub-shifter shaft where that shaft comes out through the front cover on ES bikes gets the same treatment. All of the other new seals fit the bores tightly on a 450, so I drive them in dry. Pack all those seal lips with a small amount of grease during assembly.

If you don't have a full assortment of seal drivers (very few of us do), you can use the old seals or old bearing races to drive them in. Sometimes you can find sockets in your toolbox that fits the new seals diameters just right too. Smack 'em down straight using a plastic or a brass hammer.

Its great that you have so many good spare motor parts to choose from. Builds confidence. :-)
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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How about using a block of wood flush up against the seal?
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-08-2019, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
farmers around here never heard of JASO MA and NEVER change oil in anything
^^^^^ Correct, same deal here on my end,
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