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post #31 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 03:55 PM
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like I said, if your this far into things, might as well do it ALL and do it right, by splitting cases and cleaning
or you can be right back here again with smoking issue's after spending a bunch of time and $$$
well that is unless maybe you plan to take this atv swimming , then, just wait till it sinks again and its back to smoking LOL
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post #32 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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The spare I would say is in worse shape than this one. I don't know guys, I'm having a hard time talking the wife into spending what I am, but this sounds like gonna add up pretty fast. I can't say for sure the history, not a bunch of rust anywhere for 20 years old. I would think being sunk would screw up electronics, all looks original. I gotta think hard about this, can get a rebuilt engine for around $1500. I'm stretching my smarts doing what I am without a complete tear down. And labor for doing what I can't will add up $$$ in a hurry. There will be minimal cost doing what I plan on and if I put 30-40 hours a year on it I will be lucky. You regulars here would not bat an eye and can prolly tear down in your sleep. Just not ready for this, and if I end up hearing "I told you so" I will take it like a man......

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post #33 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 07:46 PM
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The spare I would say is in worse shape than this one. I don't know guys, I'm having a hard time talking the wife into spending what I am, but this sounds like gonna add up pretty fast. I can't say for sure the history, not a bunch of rust anywhere for 20 years old. I would think being sunk would screw up electronics, all looks original. I gotta think hard about this, can get a rebuilt engine for around $1500. I'm stretching my smarts doing what I am without a complete tear down. And labor for doing what I can't will add up $$$ in a hurry. There will be minimal cost doing what I plan on and if I put 30-40 hours a year on it I will be lucky. You regulars here would not bat an eye and can prolly tear down in your sleep. Just not ready for this, and if I end up hearing "I told you so" I will take it like a man......
I sure cannot work on a motors that great, but do know about what can go wrong and odds of them doing so
as for being sunk causing electrical issue's
Honestly, NO is the answer, as most electrical things on an ATV are made toi get wet now and then and most will dry and be OK< minus maybe needing to have connections cleaned and re dielectric greased

its like I said, your this deep in it, I wouldnl;t feel right doing all this work and spending all this money and NOT knowing, or worse, having it all ruined in a VERY short amount of time, be it a few hours of running or weeks!
if done RIGHT, it will last you another 20 plus yrs and more with proper care, since all else you say is good, look at this way,c an you BUY another ATV this clean with a GREAT like new motor for the added costs here to tear it down?

there are TONS of treads and posts about folks that SUNK a atv, flushed a few times and did a NEW top end, and then BOOM< right back to square one, with smoking motor again, and all that $$ down the drain!

its your atv and your $$,and I know we all have a budget
but peace of mind has value too, as well as making a better investment some times, that has to be added to the equation!
the fact this motor is damaged some how, and the old owner ruin a another one before it, says to me, odds are he played hard, and odds are HIGHER he sunk it and sold it when it started to act up!

most GOOD non abusive honda atv owners get 20+ yrs out of a stock motor problem free with basic simple care, the fact he went thru 2??
I know where my money would be going, and if I was a betting man??
I say it went for a swim or MANY!
sorry NOT what you want to hear, but way too common these days with everyone thinking ATV are boats these day's!
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post #34 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 08:18 PM
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@bcsman, is your new .040" oversize piston kit complete with a new wristpin and piston rings?

If so and you're ready to roll the dice, you can rebore your spare cylinder to match that new piston, replace valve seals, yank the motor out of the frame and flush that crankcase out real good, then flush it out again... flush the oil cooler and hoses out and reassemble it. If the rod is not shot you might come out a winner! Might not though... But you can certainly flush those cases out more thoroughly while the motor is out of the frame.


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post #35 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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I just went out to compare the 2 pistons I have, older installed and new one. I wiped and cleaned the older piston off and there are vertical lines on it. I ran my fingernail across them and can't feel any indentations or scratches. I then took a look at the new piston and the lines on it are identical they just seem to be surface. I will have my auto mechanic friend take a look and see what he says, also there is another small engine shop close, will get an opinion from them. Just seems odd to me the new piston has very similar markings.

Gotta take a better look at the cylinder also to see what it looks like. If there is sand or some foreign object getting in there, should be scratching inside too right? Can get a more in depth look tomorrow in the light. I will report what I and the other mechanics find.

I thank all for their objective responses looking at my pics, but seeing in person will be more accurate. You guys can probably see things in pics that I can't sitting in front of me. I can and will post a pic with both pistons as a comparison....

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Last edited by bcsman; 06-10-2019 at 08:28 PM. Reason: add
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post #36 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 08:36 PM
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Vertical scratch lines on a piston indicate a previously used piston. Maybe your new piston is not new? Markings on new pistons are generally horizontal going around the circumference of the piston. Those lines are purposely put there for holding lubricating oil.

Take your cylinder and wristpin with ya when ya visit the shops.


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post #37 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Vertical scratch lines on a piston indicate a previously used piston. Maybe your new piston is not new? Markings on new pistons are generally horizontal going around the circumference of the piston. Those lines are purposely put there for holding lubricating oil.

Take your cylinder and wristpin with ya when ya visit the shops.
I guess the "new" piston could have been cleaned up to look new. If there is gonna be oddball stuff happening it will be me...lol Being the notso bright mechanic I am I just assumed it was new, but you know what assume means? Makes an ass out of you and me.....especially me....

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post #38 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 10:00 PM
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Oh no, you're doing pretty good at this stuff! You haven't had the same opportunities for experience that some of us have had is all. Many of those opportunities will come in time unfortunately... for your wallet. In the meantime, keep a smile on and have fun with it. :-)
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post #39 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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I did get the valves removed, actually the seals don't look bad still flexible, but gonna replace the valve parts while apart. The guides have a tight fit when pushing the valves in and out. My friend said one of the valves has a very thin edge around it, but again gonna replace.


I did find something that doesn't look good, took the rings off the piston and checked for ring gap inside the cylinder. Here's what they measured..
Top ring--.032
Second ring--.1 yes much wider

Top oil ring--.075
Bottom oil ring--.1, yes wide
Not sure about the waffle part between the oil rings


According to the SM, except for the top ring the rest look out of tolerance...not sure what symptoms this would cause but can't be anything good..
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Last edited by bcsman; 06-13-2019 at 10:27 AM. Reason: add
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post #40 of 82 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 08:27 PM
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Well that was a .040" over cylinder... its anyone's guess what the previous owner did in there. He might have mixed in used rings and/or undersized rings in a couple slots by the sounds of it. :-(

See how your cylinder measures out next. Or you can just start fresh and rebore your spare jug.

Good work!


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