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Repair & Maintenance Having problems? Doing a rebuild? All Repair/Maintenance Discussions here.

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post #11 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Oil looks good changed a month or so ago. I have to get a compression tester, nobody I know has the right size adapter.
Following your recent oil change did you use a similar grade oil or maybe a thinner viscocity? Is your motor original spec or has it been rebuilt/rebored in the past? Cylinder/piston ring age/mileage related wear maybe making itself known.
I wish I knew the history of this engine but alas I don't only having purchased last summer. Seeing as tho it isn't the original engine I would assume it has not been rebuilt/rebored....
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post #12 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 08:10 AM
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Oil looks good changed a month or so ago. I have to get a compression tester, nobody I know has the right size adapter.
Following your recent oil change did you use a similar grade oil or maybe a thinner viscocity? Is your motor original spec or has it been rebuilt/rebored in the past? Cylinder/piston ring age/mileage related wear maybe making itself known.
I wish I knew the history of this engine but alas I don't only having purchased last summer. Seeing as tho it isn't the original engine I would assume it has not been rebuilt/rebored....
I would never count on this, as this isn't that old of a motor, and unless it had a TON or miles and hours on it, there is suspect as WHY the first one failed, , if not a lot of excessive use, odds are it failed due to owner miss use or care, ever few or NO pm's
and they let it go, and or they sank it,
if they sank it, then odds are high they also used NEW motor the same way, and or treated it the same, NO to few pm's and possibly sank it too!

there are tons of honda atv's much older than this, on there original motors and running just fine, due to proper care of there owners!
just as well as there are tons of honda atv's that have had there motors torn apart a bunch of times due to , how there owners used and abused them!
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post #13 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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OK got tester yesterday and ran it today. I started the engine and ran to warm it up. I then removed the plug, screwed the adapter in, attached the hose and gauge. Also grounded the plug wire, opened the throttle and cranked. It registered 160 psi and stayed there after 5-6 times over. Manual says 78-121 psi normal but if below on the check to loosen the exhaust valve lock nut and adjust 1 1/2 turns and recheck. It should then read 178-206 psi. My check is between both the readings so not sure what that means. Any ideas here would be appreciated...
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post #14 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-04-2019, 01:08 PM
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One reading is for the compression release working properly and the other reading is an actual reading with auto decomp. disabled. I'm guessing the top end is worn out. Just tear it down and inspect. You will probably find it needs an oversized piston. Check the valves and valve train good. Done correctly this may be the last top end this engine will ever need.
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post #15 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Went to talk to our local small engine shop today. Told him about having 160 psi and what the normal should be. Also said it has all of a sudden started smoking from the exhaust lately, mostly after warming up, never right after starting. Obviously he said it is getting oil from somewhere that shouldn't be there, said to check any hoses running to the engine, the only one I see comes from the bottom of the air cleaner box. Took that off and no oil on the end. Other than that said it would need the valves and piston/cylinder torn apart to check. So looks like I prolly am at that point. He said having the valves and assemblies new, gaskets, and boring the cylinder to fit my .040 piston I have would be around $500-600. I have no way of removing valves or boring so does this sound reasonable? Just don't know any other reason it's burning oil but having higher than normal compression....

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post #16 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 06:57 PM
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The high compression reading is probably caused by two things going at the same time... for one, there is an oily cylinder and two, your compression gauge is probably imported.

You'll have to take the topend apart for inspection, check the rod etc., then buy the parts that are needed to restore it to new. Once you get your list made take the cylinder to a notable machinist to be measured, then buy the oversize piston and give it to the machinist so the piston clearance can be set properly during final honing. You can do all of the teardown & reassembly work yourself provided that you can find a valve spring compressor you can borrow.

So the price you were quoted is a blue-sky figure including labor... should cost ya much less if you do the majority of the work yourself on your pushrod single.


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post #17 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 07:52 PM
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and two, your compression gauge is probably imported.
Like !

G+H ATV = Jug work , piston , gaskets etc =$220 , Head reworked $155 = $375 , can't beat quality or price
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post #18 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-05-2019, 09:56 PM
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Do top end rebuild but check head and cylinder surface have seen many before leaking oil where comes up stud bolt to feed rocker box leak in combustion chamber-between head and cylinder only like 8-10mm from stud hole in gasket to cylinder .surface both
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post #19 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 03:02 AM
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never assume anything. i got this advice from an old TV show. felix, not oscar.
or was it the other way around.
make's an ass, out of u, or, me. ass u me.
god spelled back word's, is dog. forget where that came from, maybe the same place.
the aluminum in my brain must be kicking in. either Alzheimer's, or the connection's are getting better..
since i alway's been a little drifty, ya'll never know..
what is in your muffler, how old is it? ya might be cooking up an old batch.

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
hard to talk to morons. even more so, when related..
"ya should get 3 people ta smile or laugh every day" all will feel better
"sometimes, when drinking 5 or 6 bud's, nipping JB, Jim Beam, cinnamon in between, i start thinking sideways,,i have too though, ta match the way i walk" ed
"those that dont study history, are doomed to repeat it"
"I HOPE i aint wrote nutting else stupid" "funniest comedy dont need curse words" "teach how to think, not what to" ed
"Genius can be measured,not stupid" Albert Einstein
"when you get to old to learn, then what good are you" ed
i havent done friends list,if i do, R the rest not friends?
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post #20 of 67 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 03:23 AM
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I have seen it take 3 hours of running it hard to make all the oil from a upper job burn off all the oil that got into the exhaust , but I do't think that is the problem , seen the valve guide seals leak into the cylinder , usually when that happens you get a lot of smoke on crank up and then it slows down after it has ran a while , unless they were totally shot , but then I would think it would smoke on crank up bad ----and seen the cylinder wall get egg shaped from the piston wobbling from a worn out rod , would think since it gets worst after warming up , the jug is expanding and letting oil by-pass the rings ---if you do an upper job on a bad rod , it is not going to last but maybe 50-100 hours and be worn out again ---I think the last crank for my red 450 I bought was close to $400
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