Grease and lube 98 450ES questions - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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Grease and lube 98 450ES questions

Well have fixed a numbers of issues on this fairly new to me Foreman. I see Honda didn't put any grease fittings on this so am curious what I should look at to do any greasing or lubing? Everything seems to be working and sounding OK but would like to stay ahead of any issues. Main concerns are ball joints, tie rods, axles, wheel bearings, and any moving items. I may have missed any info in the service manual but didn't see much. I have changed fluids on both differentials. Thanks in advance for any help, this forum has been a wealth of knowledge in assisting me.
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1998 Honda Foreman 450ES

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 07:02 PM
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you can't lube ball joints, tie rod ends,nothing like that. most you can do is lube cables, steering column bushing, bearings with grease, which means taking apart. as well as the foot brake lever, remove, clean, re-grease, install back on.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:11 PM
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They have to be torn completely down & cleaned out to get fresh lubes back in every moving part, as shadetree advised. The 1st time generally costs ya a bunch of money in new grease seals. Once they are apart you can do a few extra things (add zerks, drill ball joints & tie rod ends, etc.) to help ya speed up the process the next time though. Always use synthetic greases and oils in everything for extra long life.

I just went through that process on my Rancher for the 2nd time. It was routine and over very quickly... every bearing was still packed with clean, red Mobil 1 syn. The ball joints and tie rod boots were still bulging with clean red syn, but I shot fresh grease through them anyway, via the greaser holes in the caps that I drilled before they were installed. I replaced a few shock absorber seals and collars that weren't replaced the 1st go 'round, replaced the air filter, performed all maintenance and readjustments, replaced brake fluid again... repainted some parts that didn't hold up after the 1st attempt, etc. Maintenance is a great wintertime sport... can take your time on them.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-29-2019, 08:30 PM
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i thought you had a 2000, for some reason. any way;;; the steering column bushing, is way over-due lube wise. ball joints, or was that tie rod ends have a boot, as cv joints,, some-thing's, there is no way to cheat on. something with a boot, well maybe.. i have a grease gun with a needle. i injected grease, where they say ya cant get to. cv joint's, ya can stick that needle into, right at the joint, reach the other's too, with a bit of imagination. tie rod ends, you can still inject the boot. it helped me. axles, wheel bearing's, are a way different subject. ya cant cheat on them, best i know.
if ya can, i wanna know..
tie rod ends are so tight, from some factory installs, there is no point, for a grease fitting.
yet still, a touch of grease, can work, applied properly. ya got to use grease that dont rot your boot.
"ya got to use grease that dont rot your boot",,, must be a joke in there somewhere.
by the time bearings make noise, its too late

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:21 AM Thread Starter
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Well that's what I kinda figured, not much that can be done without teat down. I will look into getting a needle for my grease gun for the boots. Too bad Honda dropped the ball on these quads....

1998 Honda Foreman 450ES
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 09:14 AM
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I did the needle deal ONLY on ball joint boots (ONLY in one spot)....it made a world of deference on steering! I would NOT!! punch holes in the cv boots, IMO that's a bad idea! Besides ... Cv joints don't use regular soap grease.

Get you one of these injectors. It's saved me a lot time and $$$ in sealed bearings and ball joint life.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 11:14 AM
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I've actually done bearings on a couple of bikes in the last couple of weeks (for friends). I've found that if the ball joints don't have slack in them you can stick a needle up under the boot from the bottom, put a few squirts in there, then work the joint around a bit and it will really help slick up the ball joint movement, including helping with steering.

I've started adding zerks in some spots on my machines; foot brake pedal, upper a-arm in the middle, and inside the left rear wheel on the axle tube for starters.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 03:42 PM
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Ya, don't go pokin' any holes in boots unless the joint is already junk. Ya gotta do the wheel bearings anyways... once the axles are out its easy to pop ball joints loose with a single hammer blow, stretch boots down & fill them from the bottom where they seal against the ball studs. When ya slide the joints back in the knuckles & lower A-arms, those boots will slide back up the ball studs and be bulging, full of grease.

The tie rods can be taken off for drilling the caps on each tie rod end. Seal those caps with glue after you've pumped them full of grease and the boots are beginning to bulge. Easy as takin' candy from a baby... and next time ya grease them it will go twice as fast. The best thing about DIY maintenance preps is... money stays in your wallet where it belongs.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-30-2019, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by _Wilson_ View Post
I did the needle deal ONLY on ball joint boots (ONLY in one spot)....it made a world of deference on steering! I would NOT!! punch holes in the cv boots, IMO that's a bad idea! Besides ... Cv joints don't use regular soap grease.

Get you one of these injectors. It's saved me a lot time and $$$ in sealed bearings and ball joint life.
that looks like the needle i got. i didn't punch hole's in the boots. i used the needle.
my cv joint's were klacking, when i turned, so i used the needle. they been quite since. atv has been sitting for a bit, i did this, though, a couple a year's ago, give or take my memory. for me it was give them the grease needle, or replace them..
same with the tie-rod ends.. after i stuck them with the needle, they worked better. i have 4 tie rod ends 2 tie rod's, that are new. now i have to wait, for something to go bad, before i replace it.
i got a 2000es. i'll play it out, till i cant. the reason it's sitting is electrical, an health problems., not grease problem's.
it is said, that joint's that come with zerks, have more room in them, so the grease will fit. i dont think i believe this. most likely a part's sale's person.
ed

clymers manual,service manual..
"what a good giff, the good lord gee us,not to see ourselves,as others see us"
hard to talk to morons. even more so, when related..
"ya should get 3 people ta smile or laugh every day" all will feel better
"sometimes, when drinking 5 or 6 bud's, nipping JB, Jim Beam, cinnamon in between, i start thinking sideways,,i have too though, ta match the way i walk" ed
"those that dont study history, are doomed to repeat it"
"I HOPE i aint wrote nutting else stupid" "funniest comedy dont need curse words" "teach how to think, not what to" ed
"Genius can be measured,not stupid" Albert Einstein
"when you get to old to learn, then what good are you" ed
i havent done friends list,if i do, R the rest not friends?
2000 450es TRX
2 grass hog 4x4s
sum humor adds up

Last edited by LedFTed; 04-30-2019 at 08:38 PM.
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