This is a build log, not a build up.
I enjoy working on these things, I buy them, fix them and sell them, I keep some for myself but mostly to sell.
I keep a ledger of money spent and a tally to see if I made or lost.
My time is free, since I enjoy it and always learn something along the way, you could say its the cost of
an education, otherwise its purchase + parts= Profits?
I am not a mechanic, I just own tools and like to get dirty.
Today I picked this gem up, It is a real test
Can I make a dollar off of it? we will see.
Worst case I can part it out, so if you need any parts
let me know,
1993 Honda Fourtrax 300 full time 4x4.
I will update as I go.
I have a video but cant post it (mp4)?
so I will write it out.
Previous owner said it just stopped a few years ago, and hasn't moved. we will see
I checked the oil, pulled the plug, it was orange. lol
sprayed the cylinder down with PB blaster
hooked up a battery charger
checked all the fuses
Turned the key
hit the button nothing!
turned on the lights nothing?
found a tiny small red wire pulled loose from the start relay, plugged it back in.
hit the button Wamo! the starter spins
screwed in the compression tester and spun it about 10 revolutions
it maxed out as 80 psi and held that for 20 min. while i removed and cleaned the dirt dobbers out of the float bowl of the carb. (i used toilet bowl cleaner to clean carbs it works great)
Installed the carb and rigged up some gas in a bottle.
primed the carb and filled the bowl with fuel and hit the button.
Pause for suspense vroooooom she is alive.
after listening to it and letting it idle and warm up, Im sure the valves need adjusting and the carb is not perfect. There is a wirling noise after you shut it off sounds like its coming from the front of the engine? I have no idea.
also when pushing it I heard a clunky sound coming from the front end diff area, we will address that soon enough.
All and all, a great night, from broken down for several years to starting up and idling
I will clean the tank and get some proper fuel for it, set the valves and change the oil, at this point it looks like I can save her, and make a buck, so that is the plan.
new used fenders
new wheels and tires
a good service (oil/filters/carb/plug)
a new master cylinder and lever
clean and adjust the brakes
address the front clunky noise
address the wirlly noise.
Well the first gens are harder to find parts for, and you can't use a Wide Open 424 on them without modifying it to fit because nobody makes a 424 for the first gens anymore.
I'm not sure if there's a benefit for the actual first gen frames in the mud, but some people seem to prefer the 1st gen bikes for mud bikes. The 88's had a BR cam in them from the factory, but I don't think any of the other 1st gens did, but I do think the 1st gen CDI's allowed for more RPM's. @mac102004 could probably either verify what I've said, or tell me I'm wrong on every point.
Goober that is a beautiful machine, I like the green wheels, is that a factory option?
I am just trying to save this one, so far so good.
I am trying not to get attached to it. lol
I have been enjoying my 98 450es.
Here are some pics of tonights work.
I cleaned the tank and it looks to be salvageable.
found someone has been in the brakes recently, the rear is dragging and there is a clunk in the rear drive shaft or diff I cant tell yet.
all diffs and t case had fluid in them, so at least there arnt dry.
Thanks for noticing the olive drab powder coating; thought it might inspire you in your hunt for new wheels.
These are the original wheels and they had the original Goodyears on them—which i think you have one. They were silver but flaking and the black primer was peeling too. The powdercoater couldn’t get a silver i liked And didn’t want black. Very happy with the match
More of the same, The more it runs the better it sounds.
Shadetree may be right again, the binding is coming from the rear diff, the t-case and front diff, I changed fluid and they feel fine, So what are my options? replace bearings in the rear diff? replace ring and pinion? or swap the entire unit? Can I do it? basic hand tools?
I Cleaned the brakes (waiting on brake lever now) Spent two hours cleaning the tank, installed a fuel filter to be safe. I found some aluminum factory rhino wheels 7.5x12 and 6x12 4x110 pattern those and some matching tires should bring this pig into the 21st century looks wise. I will upload a pic of the plastics, they are a mess. I really don't know what to do about them.
The whirling noise has stopped, after the first couple starts it went away, may be it needed to be ran, sitting 5 years may have gotten a little stiff. While on jack stands and running, I shifted through all the gears and even into reverse, all gears works fine no issues (at least with no load on them).
Lets see what tomorrow brings. I want to see it on the ground and moving under its own power!
changing the ring gear and pinion gear in the rear diff is not too hard ?, the worst part is replacing the pinion needle bearing !. it wont' be easy to get the old pinion needle bearing out, but it can be done !.
So today has been fun, I scored some aluminum wheels and some new take off 25in tall tires.
Found a guy on eBay, who rebuilds the rear diffs for $185 and that includes a warranty and free return shipping.
Also talked to the guy in Arkansas who has new plastics, we are working on what shipping through fastenal might be for a full set.
fingers crossed on that. locally I get get some used plastics from a junk yard but there then there 26 years old.
I ran through all the gears and reverse all the dash lights work as they should and the headlight switch is working along with high and low, the bulbs are toast.
So now it comes down to plastics, rear diff, and a leaky front driveshaft seal (t-case side), it didn't start leaking until after I changed the fluid. lol.
Below you will see the new wheels, I may keep these they weight almost nothing, the terrible state of the plastics and the new knobby tires 25in on the left side of my v treads.
Enjoy the photos
MrC.
Since you have a 2nd gen (gas tank is a bit different) any fenders from 94-2000 will fit. And of course, 93 fenders from a 2nd gen frame.
New OEM fenders were available in green very recently for about $125-150 each not too long ago. I have a feeling a bunch of hoarders bought them to sit on and sell later at a huge markup. Nothing wrong with that, but point is, they haven't been out of circulation long so don't let someone rape you on the price.
Tan front fenders are still available. Rears are not, but they, like the green, were until very recently.
it was listed under the drive shaft on partzilla, just like everything else, they are removing parts for the trx300's slowly one part at a time, wont be long, and all parts for them will not be around.
Thanks for the info Jeepwm69 (PS I had a 85 scrambler back just out of high School)
I have been watching ebay for a front and rear, I think it may just take some time to find a matching pair.
I am going to try something new, since this may become a longer project, I am going to advertise it as is now, a running driving project while I continue to fix it up. so far I don't have a lot of money in it, so whether I make a little now or on the back end makes no difference to me.
I am certain the longer I have the more I am going to put in it., I may just keep it. So while I am waiting on parts I will be looking for another Honda to flip.
work update
So tonight I installed a new brake lever only to find out the main hose is swollen and wont let fluid flow through it.
so I will need to order one of those also.
I scored some aluminum Yamaha rhino wheels man there light. and some brand new take offs 25x9x12 & 25x11x12 from a 2018 john deere gator. I think the larger and matched wheels look so much better than the 9s and 11s it had on it.
Its like punching a clock around here.
When I get something on my mind, I cant sit still.
Anyways here is tonight update
New carb
New front output seal
New battery
Saved the rear plastics
Reinstalled rear fenders with rack
Cleaned up the front end.
Waiting on
oil filter/air filter
brake line
continue looking for front fenders
decide to rebuild the rear diff or have it done, i have seen a video by D-Ray on you tube, I do not have a press. I am not sure if I am up to it. we will see.
you DO NOT have to have a press to rebuild the rear diff !!. you DO need that tool to remove the large lock nut in there, or..use a 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 square tubbing to unscrew the large lock nut.
Amy idea what this is? I have sent a request for a photo, but have had a response yet, I couldn't cross reference the part number.
Price seems fair if its new and shipping included
any parts numbers in question ?, copy it, go to google, paste it, it will show you a list of places, then look to see what it fits ?, most list will lead to partzilla .
Thanks Shadetree,
I started at partzilla, but the image was just a honda sticker with that part number, same when I googled it. I was hoping to veryify the color and match to what I had before ordering.
As for the rear diff. there is a couple of kits on ebay that include the special socket for the pinion. $104 I think was the whole kit/.
Well you know my skill level or lack there of, if you think it is doable without a press than I am going to give it a try.
I just dread pulling the whole axle out, I have never done it. of course that has never stopped me. lol
Really the front plastic flares/splash guards and rear diff rebuild is all I lack. and this puppy will be complete again.
You can do the rear end without anything special if you have that pinion socket. Look up "d-ray 300 rear" on youtube. There's a guy who does a whole rebuild on a rear end and walks you through it step-by-step.
You won’t need a press for the final drive but I would spring for the lock nut socket, if I were you. I bought a US made one on EBay for $40. They are machined from non-hardened steel though, so they won’t stand up to a lot of use, especially air impact use.
I was also able to get the pinion needle bearing out of the 3 I’ve torn down with a blind bearing puller after removing the stopper ring. No drilling or welding required.
Thanks for all the help guys, i am enjoying this and I hope you all are too.
As some of you know I buy/fix/sell older Hondas, its fun and can be profitable and I am learning a ton.
I have a ad on Cl saying just that, that I buy and sale Hondas- tonight I got a text and a lead on this beauty. ok she aint pretty but I am hoping the front fenders will fit my 93. They look like it from these two pics I got. He says its a 2000 Honda Fourtrax 300, he says it runs but leaks oil, its 2wd and the rear is trashed. He wants $100 for it, I consider it a parts bike, and not one to fix up, just use what I need fenders, front rack etc and part out the rest.
The new plan for my 93 is to scuff the top of these fenders and camo wrap the whole bike, paint the underside black to hide the red factory color. It should last for along while.that gets me a complete set of plastics for $100 then I will rebuild the rear when the kit get here. That would just leave bleeding the brakes (put on a new master cylinder).
pull the whole rear diff, if cases are not damaged ?, inside is all there ?, holler a price !.
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