Oil drain plug issues -2008 Rancher 420 - Honda ATV Forum
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Oil drain plug issues -2008 Rancher 420

I went to change the oil and found there was a bunch of caulk/gasket sealer around the oil drain plug. When I got it out, it doesn’t look like the right part (looks like a plumbing part) and I think the inside threads aren’t right. Like half if the threads are missing. How do I fix this?

I am hoping to avoid replacing the crankcase.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:32 PM
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You been bamboozled by the previous owner it looks like? Ya gotta replace that case to fix it. There'll be no net gain for universe until ya do.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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You been bamboozled by the previous owner it looks like? Ya gotta replace that case to fix it. There'll be no net gain for universe until ya do.
Yeah, I did not look at that before purchasing it. This thing has been a huge learning experience.

I’m not sure how tough this is going to be.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 11:20 PM
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Lots of those get broken by folks who overtighten the drain plug. Its a very common problem. The PO is a dirtbag for not revealing that to ya.

The motor has to be taken out, completely disassembled, the cases split and that half-case replaced. Best option might be a used set of cases from powersportsnation.com. Do you have the tools and abilities to do that work yourself? If not you soon may... a shop might charge ya over $1k for labor alone.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 12:02 AM
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Depending on how bad the female threads are, you may be able to clean it up and install one of these... https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f-109.html There are some pretty good sealants/epoxies out there, along with a heli-coil. Getting it clean is the hard part. Takes lots of solvent or brake cleaner sprayed up in there to get all the oil out.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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Depending on how bad the female threads are, you may be able to clean it up and install one of these... https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/f-109.html There are some pretty good sealants/epoxies out there, along with a heli-coil. Getting it clean is the hard part. Takes lots of solvent or brake cleaner sprayed up in there to get all the oil out.
That definitely looks worth my time/money to try to install. Is that the right size? Jbweld?
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 08:58 AM
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See number 9 for pics of the one I used.

https://www.hondaforeman.com/130-for...plug-size.html

Keep in mind you will need to make sure that you have a skid plate on your bike, and will need to make sure that the skid plate hangs down far enough to clear the valve. I put a block of wood between the skid and the engine on my wife's rig to make sure that the skid plate wasn't pushed up in a hole where the valve could catch on something.

I used blue loctite and screwed it up in the hole and let it sit for a day before I filled with oil. If you don't have any threads left at all this won't work for you. You have to have SOME material for the fumoto valve to hold onto while the loctite sets.

Not enough material there to do a helicoil. Crankcase area is very thin there on a 420.

Crappy design for sure.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:20 PM
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I have the same Rancher model as the OP, Iím still using the original Honda oil plug (knock on wood). Iím switching to the Fumoto valve on the next oil change. You can cut down a heli-coil to match the thickness of the case, if you have enough of the old threads to hold, glue that in first and let dry. Then tread the fumoto valve in with a hard sealant. Good luck

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
See number 9 for pics of the one I used.

https://www.hondaforeman.com/130-for...plug-size.html

Keep in mind you will need to make sure that you have a skid plate on your bike, and will need to make sure that the skid plate hangs down far enough to clear the valve. I put a block of wood between the skid and the engine on my wife's rig to make sure that the skid plate wasn't pushed up in a hole where the valve could catch on something.

I used blue loctite and screwed it up in the hole and let it sit for a day before I filled with oil. If you don't have any threads left at all this won't work for you. You have to have SOME material for the fumoto valve to hold onto while the loctite sets.

Not enough material there to do a helicoil. Crankcase area is very thin there on a 420.

Crappy design for sure.
I have NO CLUE if this might be possible on the 420 drain plug, but just want to say what I do on stripped drain plugs on the race bikes I wrench on and it works !

Many times I do not have the material to remove to do a helicoil, I just tap to SAE fine thread do not even need to drill the aluminum just carefully run the tap in cut down an SAE bolt if needed and make My own copper crush washer or use a fiber washer !

Just a thought!
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 04-18-2019, 06:39 AM
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i have to ask a question, just for the sake of it. why cant ya weld a fine thread nut to the bottom, an just make the drain different? is the metal to thin to weld?

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