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post #21 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 08:45 PM
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If the cam journals are good and the compression release cam/lever is not bouncing off of the rocker arm while its running, my guess is that it might be a slight exhaust gasket leak on one of the header pipes. Sometimes those two pipes don't fit the same (difficult to center each of them perfectly over the exhaust ports) after they are unbolted from the head the first time.
this crossed my mind retro ^^^. I tried to watch the decompression lever to see if it was bouncing ?, I could not see it moving ?. then I thought about the exhaust leak. what's odd is, he said something about the cam chain needing replacing in his first few post, but I don't think he put a new chain in ?.

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post #22 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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D.I.D chain #SCA0412ASDHA114.

I don't believe the decompression lever is making contact with the rocker arm. I can't feel it through the lever, but I can manually rotate it a bit and make it bounce off the rocker arms though

I had thought of an exhaust leak when my top end refresh seemed to cause the noise in a previously quiet motor, retro. I'll take a closer look tomorrow evening. I've had the header pipe off this motor a couple times now. The crush gaskets were compressed evenly, the last time, so I felt that might indicate it sealed. Used new exhaust gaskets and even took time to straighten out the header pipe flange mounts the last time I bolted it on.

I've got a couple hour run time since I set the valve clearance. I was planning to check them about now, anyhow. I don't expect to find them out of whack though. I set them with the motor on my workbench and I've never had an easier time making sure they were right.
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post #23 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 09:11 PM
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I'd look at swapping in a different chain tensioner next then. Sometimes they don't hold on to their full extension against the chain guide very well... I've seen them give up a couple clicks and be sloppy while the motor is running, yet be fully extended again once the motor is shut down. They're difficult to pin down... so easiest is swap one in and see it it makes a difference?

It sounds like you fixed the pipes already. I don't know why, but sometimes they seem to get sprung out of line the moment you take them off. :-)


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post #24 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 11:36 PM
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stick the cam chain tensioner in the cylinder like you see me doing in this pic, if its anywhere close to the distance this shows ?, you got something wrong ?, or the tensioner is not working right ?. unbolt yours, let it fully extend, then push it back in the cylinder like your going to bolt it up. if the cam chain is good , and the tensioner is working right ?, it should not be anywhere as close as this pic shows !. you should feel the tensioner hit the chain guide wayyyyyyy before you get close to the cylinder.
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post #25 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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I checked out the tensioner last night. I cant force it to retract by pushing on it against the bench, only by turning the screw. Before I replaced the chain I had a little less than a half inch before it made contact with the chain guide, now I've got about an inch. I may swap it anyhow, since it only takes a few minutes.

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post #26 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 08:44 AM
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I checked out the tensioner last night. I cant force it to retract by pushing on it against the bench, only by turning the screw. Before I replaced the chain I had a little less than a half inch before it made contact with the chain guide, now I've got about an inch. I may swap it anyhow, since it only takes a few minutes.
if you have an inch on the tensioner before it touches the cylinder when fully out ?, then there is nothing wrong with either it or chain.

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post #27 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 04:55 PM
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If you can retract that tensioner without turning the screw then it's no good...... also set the lash with a tight drag on the feeler

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post #28 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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If you can retract that tensioner without turning the screw then it's no good...... also set the lash with a tight drag on the feeler

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Tensioner is solid. I'll give that adjustment suggestion a shot. I know I'm currently set on a light drag.

Torqued down the header mounting nuts a little last night. I don't believe I'm leaking. Pretty sure the noise is rocker arm/valve related. I could feel the rocker vibration through the brass caps on the side of the cover. The pulsing matches the ticking noise. Maybe I've just been setting the valves too loose. I'll feel dumb if that's all it is, but I can live with that easier than the ticking noise
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post #29 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TRX2fiveO View Post
If you can retract that tensioner without turning the screw then it's no good...... also set the lash with a tight drag on the feeler

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Tensioner is solid. I'll give that adjustment suggestion a shot. I know I'm currently set on a light drag.

Torqued down the header mounting nuts a little last night. I don't believe I'm leaking. Pretty sure the noise is rocker arm/valve related. I could feel the rocker vibration through the brass caps on the side of the cover. The pulsing matches the ticking noise. Maybe I've just been setting the valves too loose. I'll feel dumb if that's all it is, but I can live with that easier than the ticking noise
I just gottaaaaaaaaaaa ask ( go figure )..when your adjusting the valves, are you doing it on a stone cold engine ?, or you doing this on a warm engine at any point ?. reason: you can not adjust the valves on an engine that has been ran for any amount of time !, it has to be done on a cold engine.

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post #30 of 48 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by TRX2fiveO View Post
If you can retract that tensioner without turning the screw then it's no good...... also set the lash with a tight drag on the feeler



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Tensioner is solid. I'll give that adjustment suggestion a shot. I know I'm currently set on a light drag.



Torqued down the header mounting nuts a little last night. I don't believe I'm leaking. Pretty sure the noise is rocker arm/valve related. I could feel the rocker vibration through the brass caps on the side of the cover. The pulsing matches the ticking noise. Maybe I've just been setting the valves too loose. I'll feel dumb if that's all it is, but I can live with that easier than the ticking noise
You want a tight drag and adjusted on a cold engine. I set the drag so I actually have to use a little force to get it back in between the tappet and valve

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"MOOSE WAGON "
00 TRX400EX aka "MOOSE ROCKET"
91 TRX250X aka "MOOSE WAGON" RETIRED
96 Polaris 400L sport (Mrs. Moose Ride)
07 Suzuki LTZ250 (Sons)
96 Polaris 250 Trail Blazer (daughters)
06 TRX450ER aka === Under construction

Progress and Help
PM FOR MANUAL HELP
JETTING
Service_Manual_Downloads
2000_400EX_Build
400EX_Pivot_Bolt_
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