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1988 - 1992 ???

13K views 200 replies 12 participants last post by  Goober 
#1 ·
Hello and HELP,
I'm Tony and I just joined your forum. I live in the Florida Panhandle.
I just got 2 Honda 300 Trx Fourtrax ATVs, I was told that they are both between 1988 and 1992. Neither one has keys so I ordered 2 ignition switches. They are 4 wire with Red, Black, Pink, and Pink w/ White stripe.
So when taking the old ignition switch's out I found that they are both non stock and have wire nuts on the ends but aren't connected to any wires. So my question is where and how do I connect the new wires?
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Wewaman
 
#125 ·
Carb is apart and all passages have been sprayed thru with carb cleaner, it is now soaking in hot soapy water. It was orange, powdery, & dry inside. Rubber bowl gasket was hard, flat, and stuck to bowl.
Gonna need new bowl and diaphragm cover screws.
LET THE FUN BEGIN
 
#126 ·
you got all the screws out? Great!!! Members here showed me if one strips out to cut a slot in it with a dremel tool.

Did you get all the jets out? Member to spray them with Deep Creep too
Careful with the plastic baffle
Use a 7mm socket to pull main jet.
Use the best fitting screwdriver you can get on those jets; bear down and gradually apply torque until you hear that satisfying “tick” and it’s loose!
Sometimes the head of that side-mounted starter jet will crack in two

Carb cleaner cautions:
Nitrile rubber gloves will seriously damage your skin. You’ll go thru at least 3 pair. Also make sure you’re in a well ventilated space or it will give you dain bramage.

How is that little rubber plug in the starter jet? Loose? Missing?

This is the one time i can recommend aftermarket carb kits. I have used K&L and All Balls kits I bought on the fleabay ($1.50) only for the screws and carb passage plugs.
 
#128 ·
All jets, emulsion tubes, float & valve, pilot screw, needle jet & diaphragm, rubber plug removed. There was no baffle. Yes I used a hacksaw to cut slots into 4 screws, 2 on top ,2 on bottom. The pilot screw was crusty tight when I tried to tighten it to see how many rounds it was out, so I just removed it without tightening it.
Ordered new choke cable, baffle, primer pump, and starter valve from Partzilla.
Also ordered the Shindy rebuild kit.
 
#130 ·
Dremel with a cut-off wheel is your best friend !. matter of fact..just having a Dremel alone will make your day go good !..lol.
 
#131 ·
Go ahead and use 3 pair so I can seriously mess up my hands with those toxic nitrile gloves, LOL.
I kinda figured that one of on my own goober. So the rubber plug is intact but loose, but it looks like it is held in place by the bowl. I did a preliminary cleaning with soap and warm water then some carb cleaner thru all passages. Then hit it with a nylon and brass brush with a little paint thinner, blown dry and now sitting in the Java can in the carb cleaner to soak a couple days.
Shadetree, I have a dremel but didn't want to chance cutting into the aluminum.
 
#134 ·
Does the rubber plug need to be tight in the hole or does it matter, mine is slightly loose.
It should be snug—ideally—

When mine are loose i take a razor blade and cross cut them on the insert end only. Spreads out the end so they grip the passage.

That’s what’s good about the All Balls kits they have new bowl screws and a passage plug.

i just tried to order a set of new passage plugs but got the wrong ones.

I’d be interested if members could post what they do and perhaps a Honda part number for the plug. It’s definitely not 18-4690.
 
#135 ·
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#136 ·
UPDATE:
Took the carb out of the Chem dip tonight and gave it a run thru with the small brushes and then blew air thru all openings both ways. The only real blockage I found was the actual drain spout, it was packed tight and I had to use a small wire with a small hook to pull it all out. I have a new shindy kit but I haven't opened it yet. But I cleaned all the old jets and I was wondering about the slow jet. I can get my smallest jet cleaning wire thru the small cross holes but it won't go thru the length of the slow jet, is it supposed to ? So now the carb body and bowl are in for another soak.
 
#139 ·
Yes I can see clean thru it, both the old and new are stamped with 40 on them.
I just didn't want to open the new kit to see if I could run my smallest wire gauge thru the hole on the new one. Was just wondering if it was supposed to go thru. I am going to use the new kit but was just curious.
I will heed your advice about cleaning the carb using the mentioned materials. Thanks again for your help.
 
#140 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I’m done with the carb! Bought a new primer kit. I didn’t spring for the new starter valve but I had a new spare for my 86 so robbed the oring off it.
Recently bought a set of oring probes HVAC guys use. Stripped that oring off real nice.
(this post #25)

Hey Goober in the picture of the starter valve there is a washer on the top of the picture that looks like it is hollow on the bottom, conical shaped where does it go?
i got 1 in my Shindy kit.

in this post go #48 then click your link and then go #25 in your post to see the picture I'm talking about.

Tony
 
#141 · (Edited)
I replied to your other thread Tony that diagram might be illustrating the oring. I don’t know why. Honda does not sell the conical oring separately or in a kit—that i know. You have to buy the starter valve kit.
There are only four orings in the rebuild kit that you will use:
The large gasket with the integrated small gasket us used on the bowl.
The pilot needle uses the small and tiny oring
The drain screw uses the small oring.
If i missed one someone will correct me
 

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#143 ·
Keep in mind that the quads are old—every time you inspect something there’s a chance you’ll break it. LOL it happens[/QUOTE]

Okay @Goober you called it. . I finally got all the parts together and got the carb, choke cable, starter valve and primer bulb installed and I find that the original Choke lever is sloppy and won't hold the cable in place :eek. So now I'm going to order a new lever.
 
#144 ·
Keep in mind that the quads are old—every time you inspect something there’s a chance you’ll break it. LOL it happens
Okay @Goober you called it. . I finally got all the parts together and got the carb, choke cable, starter valve and primer bulb installed and I find that the original Choke lever is sloppy and won't hold the cable in place :eek. So now I'm going to order a new lever.[/QUOTE]

chances are, there is nothing wrong with the choke lever ?. most levers never wear out ?, what does wear out ?..is the switch housing ?, or the lever spring that rides in the back side of the lever. you can take the switch housing apart to get to the spring, the lever is held in there by a tiny pin with a tiny c-clip, pesky little bugger if your not good with your hands ?..lol. the hard part is getting the front button off the lever !!, its tricky as all get out to get off the lever without damaging either one ?!. been there soooo many times..lol.
 
#145 ·
This all happened after I put the new OEM choke cable and new starter valve on last night. I had it in the lever but was having a hard time attaching the starter valve while trying to depress the spring, seemed i didn't have enough cable. So I disconnected it from the lever and got the other end all put together and screwed it into the carb, well then I was having a difficult time reattaching it to the lever and I heard a pop or snap around the lever.
So is there a correct way to get that all put back together without the "pop/snap", if so PLEASE elaborate.

Thanks, Tony
 
#146 ·
you most likely got the years mixed up , the cable , the head light assembly ( which incorporates the choke lever ) and the fuel enrichment plunger ( choke ) are all a set for the first and second gen bikes , so you can't put a second gen cable on a 1st gen bike and so forth ---then to make matters more confusing , I don't think you can get the short plunger ( 1st gen ) any more , they sell you a plunger kit with a longer plunger and a tube that adaptors to the 1st gen bike cable length


it could be as simple as you are not getting the cabe end into the plunger , do you have the other end of the cable disconnected when you were trying
 
#147 ·
I dont know how long the enrichment valve is on the kit I purchased from partzilla just the other day ?, it was for this '88 trx300fw project I am working on. I bought the cable, and the choke all in a kit. as you and I both know, those parts fich don't show a close up good picture of anything !..lol. i'll post an update either in this thread or my build thread on my findings once I get that order in :).
 
#187 ·
@fishfiles, as promised, I am quoting this again to you fish because you wanted the update on my carb's choke starter valve I purchased from partzilla for this '88 trx300fw. I got everything in yesterday, and it all went together just perfect as far as the valve, cap ( nut ), what I dont know yet is the fit at the switch ?, that will be awhile..lol. but !!!, I can compare the length of the new cable to the old cable, and see if they match ?. if they match ?, I will let you know ! :). by the way, I am pretty sure the part numbers all matched to the same as the OP in this thread ?, short starter valve, small nut, tube, rubber cover, and one tiny clip, and spring, and the cable for a 1988 trx300fw :).
 
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#152 ·
if you have an early gen carb ?, that valve wont work, neither will the choke cable. they must all match for the same year !.
 
#154 ·
as long as you know for certain that the atv is a 1991 ?, then your ok. if for some reason you read the vin number wrong , and you have a later ( newer model after '92 ? ), then those parts wont work.
 
#156 ·
I would not trust the engine serial number, they used that same motor in a lot of years for the trx300 !..lol. to be correct, you need to get the vin number off the front of the frame when ordering parts for it. all you need is the 10th digit, reading from left to right, once you get that number or letter ?, then we can tell you what year you deff have !.
 
#157 ·
Looking back thru some pics and see the silver adaptor on the choke plunger to make a long plunger work where a short one was , another thing I remember now is the threaded holes are different , you can see it in the pic , one hole is larger than the other , you can also see the difference in the headlight assembly , one snout where the cable mounts is longer than the other , and the cable has more working end than the other ----
 

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#160 ·
I have never seen a adapter nut screwed into a trx300 carb thats in your first pic fish ?. and both of your carbs in that one pic is different than the carb I picked up from my bud, close !..but not a 100% match. here's a pic of mine, can you spot the difference ?.
 

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#158 ·
The after market carb had a smaller hole them the OEM 1991 carb, that's why I ordered the OEM cable and starter valve from Partzilla. It fit the hole. I think that I broke the lever trying to get it work. The hole in the lever that the cable goes into is not holding the cable when I try to use the lever.
 
#159 ·
Hey i just bought one of those starter valves today for my 93 carb
Can you post a pic of your handlebar switch where you’re thinkin it broke?
 

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#161 ·
shadetree. here's a pic of mine said:
looks like you might be talking about the area in between the plunger hole and the cable hole is made differently ----

Manny hooked me up with the correct carb that had the exact same code for my year (92) , that bike came with a 350 carb on it and ran but not to potential , I had tried quite a few different carbs on that engine , when I finally got the correct one it runs very good
 
#162 ·
shadetree. here's a pic of mine said:
looks like you might be talking about the area in between the plunger hole and the cable hole is made differently ----

Manny hooked me up with the correct carb that had the exact same code for my year (92) , that bike came with a 350 carb on it and ran but not to potential , I had tried quite a few different carbs on that engine , when I finally got the correct one it runs very good
you are correct !, there seems to be a insert of some kind missing on this carb versus yours ?..hmmmm..lol. I have no idea what year trx300 this came off of ?, here's the code on it, VE 90ABD0 and what looks like ?..the letter T on the very end ?. VE 90ABDDOT ?. anyone know what year it is ?.
 
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