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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-16-2019 03:39 AM
LedFTed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
i was cursing black smoke, with my snap ring pliers, on the 2000. there was a lot of sludge in the piston area, all 3 time's, i was cursing black smoke, getting that c-ring out. i had to clean it more than once.
05-15-2019 06:19 PM
86Hondatrx350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
I've actually had good luck zip tying the lever back IF you are having trouble bleeding air out of the system. It won't help for anything else, and sometimes it doesn't even get all the air out of the system, but it's a cheap and easy "leave it till tomorrow" trick to try if you're having trouble bleeding the system. I've done it a couple of times and come back to a wheeler with a nice firm brake lever.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I try to splain it to you 3x now lol
“Use a flat screwdriver to gently take out that flat rubber puck—that’s where the air gets trapped.”

Yup the outside is hard rubber the inside is very delicate—pry from the outside rim
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post


How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
just pry it up and out, it just rest down in there. a mech pick, pocket knife, anything that you can wedge in between the rubber part, then just pry it up and out, nothing to it 🙂.
I’m looking at it and don’t know what to pull off, there’s an outside rubber layer, then a harder inside layer then on the lowest point there’s a rubber ring then the plunger with slits in it at the very bottom. What should I pry up?
pry the round part up, its like a quarter in size.
Well, I drove it around for an hour and the brakes seem to work flawlessly now!

Appreciate the help!

Now to find out what the whirling from the front left is...
05-15-2019 04:17 PM
86Hondatrx350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
I wouldn't worry about messing it up. If you think it's the master cylinder you can get a new aftermarket one cheap or buy a used OEM Honda one for just about any ATV and it will bolt right in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
I try to splain it to you 3x now lol
“Use a flat screwdriver to gently take out that flat rubber puck—that’s where the air gets trapped.”

Yup the outside is hard rubber the inside is very delicate—pry from the outside rim
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post


How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
just pry it up and out, it just rest down in there. a mech pick, pocket knife, anything that you can wedge in between the rubber part, then just pry it up and out, nothing to it 🙂.
I’m looking at it and don’t know what to pull off, there’s an outside rubber layer, then a harder inside layer then on the lowest point there’s a rubber ring then the plunger with slits in it at the very bottom. What should I pry up?
pry the round part up, its like a quarter in size.
Sorry, thought it would be more complicated than it was. I did what you said and I popped out like nothing, wiggled the lever a bit and no bubbles came out. I the puck back in and it had no effect... at least I know what to do next time.

I’ll ride it around for a bit and see it the brakes stay or stop working.

Thanks for all the help
05-15-2019 03:55 PM
shadetree
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post


How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
just pry it up and out, it just rest down in there. a mech pick, pocket knife, anything that you can wedge in between the rubber part, then just pry it up and out, nothing to it 🙂.
I’m looking at it and don’t know what to pull off, there’s an outside rubber layer, then a harder inside layer then on the lowest point there’s a rubber ring then the plunger with slits in it at the very bottom. What should I pry up?
pry the round part up, its like a quarter in size.
05-15-2019 03:50 PM
Goober I try to splain it to you 3x now lol
“Use a flat screwdriver to gently take out that flat rubber puck—that’s where the air gets trapped.”

Yup the outside is hard rubber the inside is very delicate—pry from the outside rim
05-15-2019 03:48 PM
86Hondatrx350
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadetree View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
I wouldn't worry about messing it up. If you think it's the master cylinder you can get a new aftermarket one cheap or buy a used OEM Honda one for just about any ATV and it will bolt right in.
How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
just pry it up and out, it just rest down in there. a mech pick, pocket knife, anything that you can wedge in between the rubber part, then just pry it up and out, nothing to it 🙂.
I’m looking at it and don’t know what to pull off, there’s an outside rubber layer, then a harder inside layer then on the lowest point there’s a rubber ring then the plunger with slits in it at the very bottom. What should I pry up?
05-15-2019 03:24 PM
shadetree
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Hondatrx350 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
I wouldn't worry about messing it up. If you think it's the master cylinder you can get a new aftermarket one cheap or buy a used OEM Honda one for just about any ATV and it will bolt right in.
How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
just pry it up and out, it just rest down in there. a mech pick, pocket knife, anything that you can wedge in between the rubber part, then just pry it up and out, nothing to it :-).
05-15-2019 01:46 PM
86Hondatrx350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
I wouldn't worry about messing it up. If you think it's the master cylinder you can get a new aftermarket one cheap or buy a used OEM Honda one for just about any ATV and it will bolt right in.
How exactly should I remove it, can’t really see see what you’d pry on it where to grab on to it with pliers?
05-15-2019 01:14 PM
Jeepwm69 I wouldn't worry about messing it up. If you think it's the master cylinder you can get a new aftermarket one cheap or buy a used OEM Honda one for just about any ATV and it will bolt right in.
05-15-2019 01:01 PM
86Hondatrx350
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goober View Post
Zip tying the lever won’t do anything except maybe prove the piston seal is worn.

If your lever won’t hold, buy a master cylinder rebuild kit ($20).

Remove the lever
Gently remove that piston dust cover–i used needle nose but try not to tear it. The new kit comes with a new cover.
Use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the housing–you’ll probably curse blue smoke trying this. Then remove the piston.

The piston seal goes in one way–take careful note Of the position.
I've actually had good luck zip tying the lever back IF you are having trouble bleeding air out of the system. It won't help for anything else, and sometimes it doesn't even get all the air out of the system, but it's a cheap and easy "leave it till tomorrow" trick to try if you're having trouble bleeding the system. I've done it a couple of times and come back to a wheeler with a nice firm brake lever.
I have left the zip tie on overnight and the brakes are still on proving everything is sealed properly.

Does anyone have any tactics to removing the black plunger at the bottom of the resovoir? Scared to take it off and can it cause any damage besides to the plunger?
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