2014 Honda Rancher 4x4 foot shift - Honda ATV Forum
Honda Rancher Discuss all models of the Honda Rancher 350/400/420

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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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2014 Honda Rancher 4x4 foot shift

Anyone else think shifting out of reverse is a little tough? Maybe I need to hit the gym...
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 08:16 PM
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Are you referring to 'pushing the reverse interlock button'?





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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-03-2015, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Putting it in reverse is not difficult. Putting my foot under the shifter and pulling up to get it back to neutral is tough. Weird though when the vehicle is not running it shifts very smoothly (hardly any effort).
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Just an update...The gears must have been a little sticky. After riding it yesterday it is shifting very smooth now.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 07:19 PM
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RB: Next time you do an oil change, try switching to synthetic oil as it flows more freely and coats better than conventional oil - especially in colder temps. Make sure the synthetic you get is Motorcycle/ATV synthetic for a WET clutch.



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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 07:22 PM
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sounds to me like you need to adjust your clutch
its fast and easy to do, and they do need a little adjusting once in a while

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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Kentco,

Still running with the oil that was in the ATV when I bought new a few weeks ago, but plan to change soon since I'm sure its the original oil and probably a couple years old. Dealership said I didn't need to service until 20 hours or 100 miles, but not sure thats a good idea. Fortunately I have been busy and have only ridden it lightly for maybe an hour. Just ordered a case of AMSOIL and a couple filters so hopefully next weekend will change.

MRBB,

It was kinda jerking when I shifted in to first so maybe I do need to adjust the clutch, but that also seems to have stopped along with difficulty coming back out of reverse. I bought a service manual which should also be arriving soon so that should help get me through doing that.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2015, 09:23 PM
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2 yr old oil IS OLD Oil, be it 1 mile or 1,000 on it, that's also why when you get your car truck changed, it says 3,000 miles or 3 months what ever comes first LOL
YES 3 months might be over kill
BUT, in vehicles that see temp changes, condensation can build up IN a motor, and thats kinda why they suggest changing it, even if low miles
oil that looks dark, generally is time to replace
before adjusting your clutch change the oil and see, BUT even if you adjust before that, it won't do anything BUT maybe help.
as again its a pretty simple deal
never hurts to check it!
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-18-2018, 09:09 PM
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Old thread but synthetic oil solves this problem

“Do. Or do not. There is no try.”
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-19-2018, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2016rancher View Post
Old thread but synthetic oil solves this problem
Yes, and it doesn't have to be motorcycle specific, but you do need to pay attention to JASO MA or MB. I've run Mobil 15w50 synthetic and Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic in my street motorcycles exclusively for about 20 years. Well over 100 hp and no clutch slippage. I suppose these semi-automatic clutches might be a little more sensitive, but these engines aren't delivering the hp or torque of a 750-1000 cc street bike.

You won't find a slicker shifting oil than 15w50 in the summer on a street bike. Basically no clunk until it's got over 1000 hard miles on it. It's not bad in the winter either, but now that T6 5w-40 is available locally at just about any store and almost always on sale, I use it exclusively.

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Last edited by tbzep; 01-19-2018 at 09:44 AM.
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