The Great Honda tick! Lil guidance please - Honda ATV Forum
Honda Rancher Discuss all models of the Honda Rancher 350/400/420

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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 06:50 PM Thread Starter
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The Great Honda tick! Lil guidance please

2003 Honda rancher 350 FM. New jug, piston and rings, top end, cam/timing chain, exhaust gasket, tensioner, and cam bearing. Adjusted valves in cold engine to spec, .006. starts and runs great, just have the ticking noise that I'm pretty sure it's coming from the top, like the valves. Any ideas, thoughts, suggestions.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 07:15 PM
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What can chain did you use? Did you replace the cam gear also? Valves lapped in properly? Piston & rings are matched to the jug, yes?

Need a more detailed description to answer in detail.

Edit: All Hondas ‘tick’, maybe take a video to help us help you :-)

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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I bought an OEM Honda brand cam chain new. The top is brand new aftermarket also, the whole top end, springs, valves, wine nine yards! Jug, piston and rings came together new as well. I've never done the video thing before but I'll try in the morning!
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-13-2019, 10:32 PM
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With all of those new parts breaking in at the same time, you'll probably have to perform several valve adjustments before the valvetrain settles down and stabilizes. Its normal and expected for valve lash to creep for a while during the breakin period. So readjust them after every few heating/cooling cycles until you're sure that everything has stabilized.

EDIT:
I have a 350 Rancher that does not tick at all. But I check those valve adjustments every time that I change the oil & filter.
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Last edited by retro; 06-13-2019 at 10:40 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:57 AM Thread Starter
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Here's the video. Motor was running probably 2 to 3 minutes before I took this video, ticking from the start though.

https://youtu.be/TkgTffPEGHo
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:04 PM
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I can't hear anything in the video but I'm half deaf... did you check the top of the rod for excessive slop while it was apart? Was the motor sunk?


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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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New motor (jug up) never sunk. Didn't have a lot of play/slack really. Seemed normal
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 12:37 PM
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There shouldn't be any up/down slop in the rod that you can see or feel easily when pushing the end of a new wristpin into the rod. The clearance spec is well under a half-thousandth if I remember right. Reason I ask is because a sloppy rod/wristpin will usually eat a new topend in short order.


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Had a brain fart and realized the other day what you were talking about. I actually didn't pay attention about the play around the wrist pin and whatnot. It'll be later that I'll be able to check that. After looking at some videos and whatnot, I'm starting to think that I bet the piston rod is shot and splitting the case and getting a piston arm kit are in the near future. Never split the case before so kinda nervous. I'll update my findings when I get the chance.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 09:13 AM
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If you need the crankshaft rebuilt, Vince at mrcrankshaft.com is a good option. You send your crankshaft in and get a rebuilt one back with a better quality (better than OEM) Vesrah rod kit installed and balanced and its cheaper than buying an OEM crank.


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