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1998 Honda TRX300FW Fourtrax Full Refurbish Project

27K views 303 replies 15 participants last post by  Ihavetoomanyprojects 
#1 ·
Hi everyone, I recently purchased a Honda TRX300 FW Fourtrax quad in need of some repair. However, after some stripping back of the plastics and wheels, I found it needs a lot of work to get it right, so I have decided to do a full overhaul on the quad. I will post progressive photos from the beginning and will be asking for help along the way! Feel free to comment and give advice when needed as I don't admit to knowing it all!:big-grin My dad ( Bluezulu49) will also be in on the project and we hope to have the bike running again by the end of July/early August.

So far, we have done the following:

We have removed:

All racks front and back and the plastic mudguards.
The fuel tank (has a bad dent on the left side, any suggestions as to how to pull it out would be appreciated).
The whole front end of the bike, all brake components, hubs, knuckles, bearings, swing arms and a lot of the electronics.
The steering rack.
The cooling fan (motor is seized but we managed to buy a brand new old stock fan).
The exhaust pipe.

Along with my father, construction wise, we have so far:

Cleaned the 4x swing arms and repainted 3 of them.
Cleaned the stainless steel shrouds that sit at the back between the brake shoes and the knuckles on the front end.
Cut off the rotten steel from the bash bar and replaced with new steel, like for like. (I'm a carpenter by trade but have picked up the knack for welding over the years!).


I have spent a considerable amount of money on new parts which include the following:

New exhaust pipe and gasket.
New brake shoes and springs, front and back.
New knuckles x2.
Second hand brake drums.
Bearings for the front hubs.
New steering rack components.
New rear axle.
New brake fluid pipes x2 (they bolt onto the back of the brake guard on the front end).
New cooling fan motor.
New brake cylinders.

I may have missed a few things but there are more items still to be ordered, i just need to see what else needs replacing/ repairing first.

The next job is to remove the front driveshaft and engine to inspect the bottom side of the chassis.
Any pointers and tips are welcome, I will post up some pics shortly to show you what we have found so far.

Hope you enjoy the thread!
 

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#3 ·
Very cool project.
How is the fan controlled on the 98-00 models, does it use a separate fan control unit? Because I don’t see where it’s mounted—older models it’s mounted to the rider’s left of the CDI.

You can try to pop out the dent using any bodywork method except heating because of the petrol, right?

Is the tank rusty? Because you can use vinegar and a pound of BBs to remove the rust. Just remove the petcock and tank cap because the vinegar will destroy the rubber. Then neutralize the vinegar with a high pH solution immediately after rust removal and dry with a hair dryer.

Then you should smell no petrol—you can work on the dent more—or live with it. Buy a NOS tank and sell this one on. This type of treatment will make easy to ship—no fuel smell. Just remind the buyer to rinse out the pH chemical with fuel first because the calcium will clog the filter and these models don’t have one BTW.
 
#4 ·
Fishfiles, I think it's the angle of the photo. That bar is loose on the frame but not bent. The front by bash bar does have a slight twist though, which makes me think the bike may have been driven into something solid in the past and twisted it.
 
#6 ·
now that you say that , the tube you might be calling the bash bar : is that the frame tube on the left in the pic with 1/2 the decal still on it ? from the angle of the pic maybe , but that tube looks bent to the side ----- did you ever get to ride the bike , I wonder how the steering was if it has a warp in it
 
#5 · (Edited)
does it use a separate fan control unit? Because I don’t see where it’s mounted—older models it’s mounted to the rider’s left of the CDI.
Good eye goober! I didnt even see that oem cooling fan...till you mentioned this^^^

I believe shade mentioned to me one time later year model 300,s .... The fan and cdi were built as a single unit (cdi) but.... I just checked and the only year model showing one single box , is the 2000 model, the odd thing is my 1999 300 ALSO has one control box (CDI) hm....that's strange ??

Edit: i just went and looked @ my 97 , it's the same (single unit) very odd!

https://www.hondapartsnation.com/oemparts/a/hon/506bbd84f870023420a22d8a/wire-harness
 

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#7 ·
Our 1998 TRX300FWW project is well under way and we have now received some of the parts we ordered.


This morning we got four new brake cylinders. I notice that the new ones differ from the old in that the new have breather pipes in both cylinders whereas the old only have them in one cylinder on each side. I suspect we will deal with this by drilling an access hole in each of the brake backing plates.
We went for new cylinders as they were about the same price as refurb kits and we could not unseize the originals.

Also the hole for the bleed nipple on the new cylinders is M10 x 1.25 while it is much smaller on the old one. We have solved ( we hope ) this problem by buying new M10 X 1.25 bleed nipples on ebay.

Picture of some of the repainted upper and lower arms and steering arm, new exhaust and new fan motor below. Also picture of old and new brake cylinders showing differences.
 

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#8 ·
Edit: i just went and looked @ my 97 , it's the same (single unit) very odd!
Correction.... The 97 does have both boxes, one wasn't shoved in the rubber holder.

So.... I take it the 1999, and 2000 are integrated ??
 
#9 ·
We spotted Fishfiles! I took off the front rack, turned it upside down and measured the distance from the floor to the top mount bracket on each side. There is a difference of 6 mm between one side and the other. See pictures attached.
 

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#15 ·
I got OCD bad , if something is just a little out of line I can usually spot it and it bothers me ---
Could you take another pic , from the same spot as in your #4 pic of the first post , but move over to the left a bit so you are centered in the middle of the frame ---------- did you ever get to drive this one , I seen a lot of times if there is a bend in the frame they are harder to steer one way or the other or they pull to one side , I wouldn't want to do a refurb and then found out I had problems ---- did that bike live close to the coast , it is pretty rusty
 
#11 ·
I quit running drum brakes a long time ago , but have taken many of 300 front brakes apart , seems I remember something like the 1st gen 300s 88-91 used different cylinders than the 2nd and 3rd gens ( which were all the same ) ---what year is yours are you sure it is a 98 or maybe you bought 88-91 parts
 
#14 ·
Hi Fishfiles,
Vin number indicates a 1998 FWW. The parts I bought were from partzilla. I see that there are two different types of brake cylinder and it looks like I bought the wrong type. With the boring of one hole in each of the backplates they will fit and I have already sourced larger bleed nipples.
The perils of ordering under pressure. It would not be economically viable to try to return the cylinders and would cause more delay than we want.

I must say we were happy to get fairly quick delivery from USA. Items were ordered on 21st June and arrived this morning.
 
#18 ·
Fishfiles, sorry I thought you were on about the bash bar that I removed. The decal on that bit of steel you mentioned is part of the chassis/frame of the bike. I think my dad answered your first question.

As for riding the bike, I took it out the day after buying it and the steering was awful! Lots of wobble due to 4 knackered end ball joints, but the main bushing on the steering shaft itself is fine.

I also found that on the rear axle, all the bearings are worn. The rear right hub where the axle meets with splines, well the splines are bald so I was not getting 4wd at all, just the front wheels and rear left doing the work!
 
#24 ·
Bush and bearing fit made by ‘Loctite’ will sort that out. It’s in liquid form, you’d have to apply the liquid to the worn areas and wrap it tightly with ‘cling film’. Once it’s set smooth it off with fine (1000 or 1200 grit) wet and dry or Emory cloth. Another option would be to use metal putty, again, apply it (sparingly) and then use light abrasive paper to get the required finish.

PM the parts your struggling to source or the parts your finding expensive, I have boxes full of good used parts and may be able to help you out :)

Edit: I have bleed nipples!
 
#23 ·
If your finger nail will grab it when slide across the groove , then it is too much , is the rule of thumb ...nail , no pun intended ----- could be a good time for a 4x2 and ditch that front drive shaft all together ---- I have never found a speedie sleeve the right size -------- you can just emery paper it and let it ride on dry ground and stay out the water , or fill it will a mixture of marine grease and Lucas hub oil
 
#26 ·
Hi guys.
Not a lot achieved today. The new rear axle is due to be delivered tomorrow so we carried out some preparations .

In order to get at the rusty nuts on the front of the rear axle housing with a wire brush on a drill we needed to remove the complete air cleaner assembly. That necessitated removal of the snorkel and disconnection of the air cleaner connection to the carburettor. This took quite a while. Once we had access we wire brushed them with our trusty electric drill and sprayed them with penetrating oil. We came back to them four hours later and they all moved.

The inner large nut on the left side of the rear axle has stripped its threads and the outer is seized on its threads. So out came the Dremel with a cutting disk installed. After breaking 5 cutting disks we decided to double up the disks and cut with two at a time. This solved the breakage problem. Two cuts were needed on the seized nut so that we could remove a section and get it to turn.

We turned the quad around and had a look at the swing arm. There is about 5mm lateral play in the swing arm and we saw that it has been left without its dust covers and is full of dried mud. So we cleaned it out, squirted it with penetrating oil and will have another look at it tomorrow.

Looking at the parts diagrams we are unclear as to how lateral play in the swinging arm is eliminated and hope that someone here can enlighten us.
 

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#27 ·
after the swing arm is loaded with new bearings and seals , you tight up one side , then tighten the adjustment /pivot bolt on the other side , then jam nut lock the adjustment bolt , the adjustment is very minimal , like 4ft pounds /48inch pounds , it will pull the frame together a little bit and might take up some of that slack you mention , but there is going to be some gap there ------- looks like the hub was welded to the axle
 
#28 ·
Thanks for the info fishfiles.

Lazy day today. Was mistaken about todays delivery. Front brake drums arrived from USA and four knuckle ball joints from the UK.

Dismantled the two suspension dampers ( manual calls them front cushions) for inspection and painting. We do not have a compression tool so we compressed the springs with two ratchet straps.
 
#29 ·
Always more than one way to skin a cat , I could see how ratchet straps could work , I call suspension dampers = shock absorbers -------------- funny how there are so many names for the same things ---- I work on heavy equipment and from one manufacturer to the other , there are many names for the same thing , the parts guys that are not well versed have no clue what you are asking for some times , the arm of an excavator I have heard it called any thing from arm , dipper , stick , crowd , 2nd boom
 
#30 ·
If you want to do it by the book , plan ahead for that swing arm bearing job , a 17mm Allen bit socket , the tool for the locking ring of the swing arm pivot bolts , 3/8 or 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch torque wrenches --- the easiest/ quickest way I have found to get the races of the bearings out the swing arm is a oxy/acc torch and slice the race on each side
 
#31 ·
Fishfiles beat me to it..! Heat is your friend with stubborn fasteners, especially swing arm pivot bolts! I didn’t have oxy/acetylene at the time when I did mine and I ended up using a 3/4 breaker bar 6 feet long to shift those things! 1/2 inch bar just wouldn’t touch it.
 
#32 ·
Sam , You beat me to heating up the pivot bolts if they don't come out , I was talking about getting the bearing's race out of the swing arm's bore , some people use a Dremel and cut the race ----some thing extra I always do on the swing arm bearing job , I apply 3m5200 to the back side of the steel grease plate before sticking it in

I been lucky with the swing arm pivot bolts, have never had to heat one yet , but I do have a 1/2 drive Allen socket with a cheater pipe
 
#33 ·
Here's a trick that I use (a great machinist tipped me off) that works great on pressed in bearing races:

Weld a bead all the way around the center of the bearing race. Flip the part over and allow it to cool... that bearing race will fall out onto the bench as it cools off. Works every time like a magic trick. :)
 
#36 ·
I have seen that trick used and work on large bearings , I know "I would be scared to try it on a swing arm bearing race , it is so narrow , I am a decent welder but not that good to run a bead all the way around , one slip and you could weld it to the swig arm

another thing I do my swing arms , is to drill and tap a hole for a grease fitting ( might be a Zerk on that side the Pond ) , right above the pinion bearing seal , I pack the tube with grease then apply more grease every couple of rides , this helps keep any water that might get inside the tube away from the seal
 
#35 ·
That pivot jam nut tool pic'ed^ is one that they show in my manual , I have never used that type , the one I have is just the socket part with no off set arm , should work no problem

Don't be alarmed if your new swing arm bearings arrive and they do not look the same , have seen some are tapered bearings and some are roller bearings , both styles will work -------pack it full of good quality marine grease , and apply either never-sieze or grease to the pivot bolt threads and the cavity under the plastic dust cap which really does does nothing for sealing water
 
#38 ·
grease nipple , that's a new one by me ---- copper grease sounds like Never-Seize

I have given some thought to greasing capability of the rear brake cam shaft , I was thinking of drilling thru the cam lengthwise , then a hole from the side hence , creating a journal , grease fitting " nipple " on the end of the shaft , never did do it , have had that cam get stiff and stick many times now --- looking forward to see you coming up with something for that
 
#40 ·
That is amazing isn't it !!! I have the same problem with my wife , she speaks Woman and I don't get it !!! ------ over here just in South Louisiana , you got about 20 different dialects of English , I speak a cross between The Bronx , New Jersey and ******* , born and raised in New Orleans , La ---people always ask me if I am from 'Jersey or the Big Apple , I am like , No , from The Big Easy -------Well , I need to go prep for Independence Day Celebrations , No Offense !!! ------- " Gots to goes gets mes pints in the chill box !!!! "
 
#41 ·
With my new terminology , I realized it brings a totally new view to tools , I just purchased a grease fitting clamp for the grease gun , have not tried it yet , it sure isn't good for tight spots , think it might be junk , but any ways , the different views is , I might get a funny look if I asked for a nipple clamp ....
 

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