1998 Honda TRX300FW Fourtrax Full Refurbish Project - Page 3 - Honda ATV Forum
Honda FourTrax Discussions for the FourTrax Rincon, Foreman, Rancher, Recon

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post #21 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 02:31 PM
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I buy most of my parts from Partzilla also , I like the interchange they have , sometimes I get the part numbers from Partzilla and shop them on e-bay and find new OEM parts cheaper ---- I don't know if you knew it , but there is a disc brake conversion kit for the 300s front brakes , it cost about $225 US , by the time you buy the cylinders , shoes , springs , seals and hope the drums are not work out , it is a good deal , pads are $25 a set after that and 10 minutes a side changing them
Wish I had known about front discs earlier. However we have new brake shoes, drums, and slave cylinders purchased so for the time being we will continue with front drums.

I also use the OEM part numbers to source spares but the biggest problem here is that postage can in many cases cost a multiple of the cost of smaller items. For instance, I wanted to buy bleed nipples for the front brakes from Holland. They were €3 each but the postage was €19.50!!!!!.

We have the front differential out and the first clean carried out.
There is wear on the rear end of the shaft going from the engine to the front differential. Anyone have any views on whether this is too worn to be oiltight?
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post #22 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 03:28 PM
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That's worn too much to seal. You can try to find a good used replacement or use a speedisleeve on it (not sure what they call them in the UK, but @SamUK could probably point you in the right direction)
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post #23 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 03:41 PM
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If your finger nail will grab it when slide across the groove , then it is too much , is the rule of thumb ...nail , no pun intended ----- could be a good time for a 4x2 and ditch that front drive shaft all together ---- I have never found a speedie sleeve the right size -------- you can just emery paper it and let it ride on dry ground and stay out the water , or fill it will a mixture of marine grease and Lucas hub oil
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post #24 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 04:28 PM
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That's worn too much to seal. You can try to find a good used replacement or use a speedisleeve on it (not sure what they call them in the UK, but @SamUK could probably point you in the right direction)
Bush and bearing fit made by ‘Loctite’ will sort that out. It’s in liquid form, you’d have to apply the liquid to the worn areas and wrap it tightly with ‘cling film’. Once it’s set smooth it off with fine (1000 or 1200 grit) wet and dry or Emory cloth. Another option would be to use metal putty, again, apply it (sparingly) and then use light abrasive paper to get the required finish.

PM the parts your struggling to source or the parts your finding expensive, I have boxes full of good used parts and may be able to help you out :-)

Edit: I have bleed nipples!

98 300 Fourtrax 4x4

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post #25 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-01-2019, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepwm69 View Post
That's worn too much to seal. You can try to find a good used replacement or use a speedisleeve on it (not sure what they call them in the UK, but @SamUK could probably point you in the right direction)
Bush and bearing fit made by ‘Loctite’ will sort that out. It’s in liquid form, you’d have to apply the liquid to the worn areas and wrap it tightly with ‘cling film’. Once it’s set smooth it off with fine (1000 or 1200 grit) wet and dry or Emory cloth. Another option would be to use metal putty, again, apply it (sparingly) and then use light abrasive paper to get the required finish.

PM the parts your struggling to source or the parts your finding expensive, I have boxes full of good used parts and may be able to help you out :-)

Edit: I have bleed nipples!
Will try the Loctite bush and bearing fit first as I have some here. If I cannot get it to work I'll try the metal putty.
I have bought the bleed nipples (very cheaply) on ebay.
Thanks for your offer or used parts, I'll keep it in mind particularly if we need to replace any of the cases. There is a lot of play in the rear axle and I suspect not all of it is due to dud bearings. It seems to me that what mainly need to be replaced are all of the oil seals and some bearings.
We are waiting for a new rear axle from the USA which comes complete with hubs, washers, etc. When we see what we have got we will decide what we need.
Tomorrow we will probably remove the engine and rear drive so that we can sort out the corrosion issues with the frame.
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post #26 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 05:13 PM
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Hi guys.
Not a lot achieved today. The new rear axle is due to be delivered tomorrow so we carried out some preparations .

In order to get at the rusty nuts on the front of the rear axle housing with a wire brush on a drill we needed to remove the complete air cleaner assembly. That necessitated removal of the snorkel and disconnection of the air cleaner connection to the carburettor. This took quite a while. Once we had access we wire brushed them with our trusty electric drill and sprayed them with penetrating oil. We came back to them four hours later and they all moved.

The inner large nut on the left side of the rear axle has stripped its threads and the outer is seized on its threads. So out came the Dremel with a cutting disk installed. After breaking 5 cutting disks we decided to double up the disks and cut with two at a time. This solved the breakage problem. Two cuts were needed on the seized nut so that we could remove a section and get it to turn.

We turned the quad around and had a look at the swing arm. There is about 5mm lateral play in the swing arm and we saw that it has been left without its dust covers and is full of dried mud. So we cleaned it out, squirted it with penetrating oil and will have another look at it tomorrow.

Looking at the parts diagrams we are unclear as to how lateral play in the swinging arm is eliminated and hope that someone here can enlighten us.
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post #27 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-02-2019, 06:16 PM
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after the swing arm is loaded with new bearings and seals , you tight up one side , then tighten the adjustment /pivot bolt on the other side , then jam nut lock the adjustment bolt , the adjustment is very minimal , like 4ft pounds /48inch pounds , it will pull the frame together a little bit and might take up some of that slack you mention , but there is going to be some gap there ------- looks like the hub was welded to the axle
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post #28 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 12:51 PM
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Thanks for the info fishfiles.

Lazy day today. Was mistaken about todays delivery. Front brake drums arrived from USA and four knuckle ball joints from the UK.

Dismantled the two suspension dampers ( manual calls them front cushions) for inspection and painting. We do not have a compression tool so we compressed the springs with two ratchet straps.
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post #29 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:00 PM
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Thanks for the info fishfiles.

Lazy day today. Was mistaken about todays delivery. Front brake drums arrived from USA and four knuckle ball joints from the UK.

Dismantled the two suspension dampers ( manual calls them front cushions) for inspection and painting. We do not have a compression tool so we compressed the springs with two ratchet straps.


Always more than one way to skin a cat , I could see how ratchet straps could work , I call suspension dampers = shock absorbers -------------- funny how there are so many names for the same things ---- I work on heavy equipment and from one manufacturer to the other , there are many names for the same thing , the parts guys that are not well versed have no clue what you are asking for some times , the arm of an excavator I have heard it called any thing from arm , dipper , stick , crowd , 2nd boom
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post #30 of 205 (permalink) Old 07-03-2019, 01:05 PM
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If you want to do it by the book , plan ahead for that swing arm bearing job , a 17mm Allen bit socket , the tool for the locking ring of the swing arm pivot bolts , 3/8 or 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch torque wrenches --- the easiest/ quickest way I have found to get the races of the bearings out the swing arm is a oxy/acc torch and slice the race on each side
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